Country Dave’s Lowe 1752 modification/restoration project.

[lbhansford]

ive used both lowrance and hummins for mostly salt and a little fresh up here in the Chesapeake. I will tell you I personally like the humminbird ALOT more. Make sure to get the new HD version or it was too dimly lit on sunny day in my opinion. I personally feel that for the range and conditions i was fishing most often (rocks and structure around bridge tunnels and wrecks) the 898c SI HD is the best for the money. Works very well in the 10 to 80 ft depth range. Doesnt get much deeper around these parts. I also used a lowrance down image for a while and wasnt that pleased. not nearly the detail for deeper objects. again just staying my personally opinion.

 

[Country Dave]

ive used both lowrance and hummins for mostly salt and a little fresh up here in the Chesapeake. I will tell you I personally like the humminbird ALOT more. Make sure to get the new HD version or it was too dimly lit on sunny day in my opinion. I personally feel that for the range and conditions i was fishing most often (rocks and structure around bridge tunnels and wrecks) the 898c SI HD is the best for the money. Works very well in the 10 to 80 ft depth range. Doesnt get much deeper around these parts. I also used a lowrance down image for a while and wasnt that pleased. not nearly the detail for deeper objects. again just staying my personally opinion.

Thanks lbhansford, I think I’ve got it figured out. I’m just going to get the transducer for my Garmin and I have something special planed for the GPS/mapping. :mrgreen:

I’ve settled the weight issues of a 400lbs motor. I called Lowe boats and told them that I was going to repower with a Merc 80hp 4 stroke that weighs 399 lbs and they said no problem, they don’t have a weight limit on that transom. Well as you know I’ve rebuilt/beefed up the transom and I’m, not at all concerned about the weight or the 35 extra ponies of the Yam 115.

Between the float pods and the new transom I think I’m good there. However my concern is how shallow I’m going to be able to run. I know she is going to float skinny I’m hoping she will float in like 4to 6 inches with the motor tilted up. My 14484 floated in spit. I would literally float by birds standing in the flats.
I’ve got the jack plate and I’m probably going to send out the lower unit and get a low water pick up. With that and a 4 blade small diameter prop with a bunch of pitch, and a modified skeg I’m hoping to run 6 to7 inches.

 

[smackdaddy53]

Quick update,

Well it’s not out of the norm for me to overthink things and these transom supports brackets were no exception. However the only real challenge was getting the angles right.

I removed the jack plate “It was never bolted in” so I could mount the inner peace of the aluminum plate and drill those holes using the existing holes I recently drilled in the transom as a guide. Next I’m going to mount the jack plate and bolt it down then, drill my through hull for the livewell pump. After that I will weld the for mentioned support brackets in place.
It looks like it would be really difficult to drill the through hull for the livewell pump correctly with the brackets in place.

Dave, the build is looking killer, I have been following it and plan on starting on the bracing for a flush deck on mine tomorrow. I just got my aluminum yesterday and I am starting my unofficial build thread tomorrow or at least pics then the thread at night.
As far as finding your angles for the transom braces, you did great but to make it easier next time (or for anyone reading this and doing something similar) try cutting your brace about 2-3"" longer than it needs to be and cut ends square. Lay it at whatever angle you want it at and then take another scrap piece and lay one flat on the transom and another flat on the floor(or rib height where you are bracing) and scribe a line off the pieces onto the brace and then cut the angles on a chop saw and use it for a pattern for the other(s) after you tweak the length. All you have to do is cut off at the same angle and make it fit perfectly at all angles and length. Its just the old "scribe trick" I used a lot when framing houses, building cabinets, laying tile and fabricating aluminum rolling shutters for hurricane protection. It is a universal technique to fit lots of parts at odd angles.
Hope I helped!

 

[bigwave]

As far as finding your angles for the transom braces, you did great but to make it easier next time (or for anyone reading this and doing something similar) try cutting your brace about 2-3"" longer than it needs to be and cut ends square. Lay it at whatever angle you want it at and then take another scrap piece and lay one flat on the transom and another flat on the floor(or rib height where you are bracing) and scribe a line off the pieces onto the brace and then cut the angles on a chop saw and use it for a pattern for the other(s) after you tweak the length. All you have to do is cut off at the same angle and make it fit perfectly at all angles and length. Its just the old "scribe trick" I used a lot when framing houses, building cabinets, laying tile and fabricating aluminum rolling shutters for hurricane protection. It is a universal technique to fit lots of parts at odd angles.
Hope I helped![/quote]

I am a visual guy, you would not have a pic of the above technique. I would like to learn this but just cant grasp some things without hands on or visual.

Hey Dave any updates?

 

[Country Dave]

Hey thanks Smackdaddy,

Appreciate the encouragement and the tip. I’m a lot like bigwave in the sense that I’ve got to put my hands on it for sure. I understand the concept and I’m going to try it next time. I almost always use a piece of wood and make a template from that. Wood is relatively cheap compared to aluminum stock. That’s what I did for the braces. If I mess up a piece of wood it’s not too big of a deal. That’s my tip for the day. :LOL2: Make a template and if it fits good use it to trace out whatever it is you’re fabing.

Kevin I got my livewell pump and pickup today. Rule 800GPH pump and T-H Marine EZ pump pickup. I drilled the transom to install the pump. I always hate drilling through the transom. Anyway it’s so freaking hot outside I’m taking a little break.

 

[Badbagger]

Looks great Dave. That transom is thick as a bitch lol.

 

[Country Dave]

Looks great Dave. That transom is thick as a bitch lol.

Thick as a bitch, love it. :LOL2:

 

[Country Dave]

Quick update,

I notched out the bottom of the vertical transom supports so they lay over the floor ribs. Now they have just a little more bite. I also prepped the mounting plate were the top of the supports are going to be welded. I’m going to try and weld them tomorrow night.

I was able to cut out a peace of 0.125 that I’m mounting in the center bottom of the bench to support the bottom of the livewell. It’s just a bed like I made for the fuel tank. I didn’t want the livewell to be only supported from the screws at the top of the flange and the rest of it hanging in midair.

Once I cut the opening in the bench for the livewell and removed the foam the bench was not as rigged, I expected that. I cut 1x1 squares out of 5/8 ply and pined them up under each side of the bench supported by two 2x4s notched at the bottom over the ribs and held in place by brackets. My 220 lbs. has to walk around on it.

 

[smackdaddy53]

Looks solid! I wish I had an aluminum welding machine.

 

[Country Dave]

Looks solid! I wish I had an aluminum welding machine.

Thanks SD,

My friend is the welder; he’s been teaching me how to weld aluminum. I’m not bad with an oxygen acetylene torch but welding aluminum is quite a different story. I’ll tell you this much, if it doesn’t have to be the prettiest looking welds the wire feed is the way to go. :mrgreen:

 

[smackdaddy53]

Looks solid! I wish I had an aluminum welding machine.

Thanks SD,

My friend is the welder; he’s been teaching me how to weld aluminum. I’m not bad with an oxygen acetylene torch but welding aluminum is quite a different story. I’ll tell you this much, if it doesn’t have to be the prettiest looking welds the wire feed is the way to go. :mrgreen:

I worked at a custom aluminum shop for several years and learned to weld Tig, i wish I could justify owning both a mig and tig machine! I bought 800 rivets for my build and used about 600 already. Thank God for pneumatic rivet guns. Your build is looking very nice!

 

[Badbagger]

Looks great Dave, yer moving right along and thinking things out =D>

 

[bigwave]

Looking good, I have one suggestion though.....I spend a good bit of time on large offshore vessels and when it come to your livewell pump I would recommend putting a good ball valve inline between the pump and the intake. Do not go cheap on the valve either, get a brass one with ss handle. It almost never happens but if you break the fittings or you have a hose come off, you will be pumping water directly into the hulll. The shut off will come in handy in the case of a failure. Looking real good......I still have to mount my transducer so I feel your pain when it come to putting holes below the water line.

 

[Country Dave]

Thanks Kevin,

I was just talking to a friend about that. I wasn’t too worried about the inlet shaft cracking or breaking because the transom is pretty thick although I’ve seen that. I have also heard of the pumps popping out of the pump body and that’s what scares me. Yes going to install a good through hull shut of valve on the inlet side of the pump.

Yeh drilling through the transom always sucks. That’s the one place you don’t want to drill of center or mess up. When I plumed the livewell on my Mako I drilled to low and couldn’t get the pump in.
I just but the pump on the other side and used that hole as the outlet. Measure twice cut once. :LOL2:

 

[Country Dave]

I got over to my buddies shop tonight and welded up the supports. I’m real happy with the way the transom turned out. I’m 100% confident it’s going to be more than enough handle the 115.

 

[Pweisbrod]

Really looking great! Was the boat originally a 75 horse rating? I can't wait to see the 115 on it!

 

[Country Dave]

Really looking great! Was the boat originally a 75 horse rating? I can't wait to see the 115 on it!

Me too :LOL2:

It was 50 HP TILLER or 80 HP CONSOLE

 

[Country Dave]

I think I took about 35lbs off this hull and added about 100lbs that’s including the jack plate. So let’s say I added a net total of 65lbs. Here is what Beavertail says about its float pods.

“Up to 200 Lbs of extra flotation
Eliminates the negative performance associated with the weight of a 4-stroke air-cooled motor
Eliminates tail drag associated with shallow water running (Boats float virtually flat & draft considerably less, giving you almost unlimited capabilities in shallow water)
Dramatically increases out of the hole take off
Funnels water to the propeller in the shallowest of environments (giving you the ability to start out & get on plane in conditions like you never have before)
Eliminates virtually all transom back splash
You'll no longer have to worry about over-turning your mud motor (Performance Pods act as a stop to help eliminate uncontrolled spins))
Reduces engine laboring
Reduces fuel consumption
Compliments engine power trim”

So if my math is right I’m 135lbs lighter. OK I know that’s not a true number but I think my point is well taken. I’m sure I sound like a broken record but I’m just trying to account for the extra 140 pounds of motor. But let’s forget about that for a minute. This hull was designed to carry a battery and fuel tank in the rear compartment right in front of the transom, not unlike many Jon boats.
Battery 60 lbs, Fuel at least another 100lbs. So if I did nothing other than move the battery and fuel tank forward, and that’s what I did, I’m talking about 160lbs of the stern. That’s my extra motor weight and more. But in addition to that if Beavertail’s claims about the pods are accurate well then I’m golden. :mrgreen:
Any of you all have a heavy motor and float pods?

 

[Badbagger]

Sounds logical and I'm gonna be azz end heavy lol with 240+ pounds of battery. Well half of that under the console and add another 70 lbs for the jackplate.
Damn glad the Etec is as light as it is.

 

[Country Dave]

Sounds logical and I'm gonna be azz end heavy lol with 240+ pounds of battery. Well half of that under the console and add another 70 lbs for the jackplate.
Damn glad the Etec is as light as it is.

Yeh man I think you’ll be fine,
I think they’re going to float and run as well as expected. Well I got my hull recertified and received my placard today.