Cut welded corner caps to remove transom?

[Duckduckgoose]

I got an old Grumman that needs the transom wood replaced. There is aluminum encasing the wood that is riveted to the hull on the sides and under the wood to the outside transom skin. It looks like the only way I can get the wood out is either:
A. Cut the welded on corner caps so I can pull the wood up and out. I’d also have to bend or cut the cap over the transom as well to get the wood out.
B. I was thinking I can cut the aluminum covering the wood and leave 1-2” on the sides and bottom so I can use it as a bracket and attach the new wood to the sides. I’d probably have to bend that left over aluminum a little to get the wood in.

B option saves me from finding a welder since I don’t have that skill. But don’t know if aluminum covering the wood provides any support I’d be losing.

Thoughts? Suggestions?



This where I was thinking of cutting

 

[Ronbedard57]

Hi,
I can't really see in enough detail to be positive, but I would encourage you to go ahead and drill out any rivets you need to in order to disassemble that transom. Re-riveting afterwards is well within just about anyone's abilities, and only requires about $50 in tools and materials.
If you've got to deal with welds in order to disassemble, then that's a different story, and a lot more complications and expense.
Good luck,
Ron

 

[DaleH]

Yes, remove ALL bolts, screws and whatever fasteners might be in that transom first.

From what I see ... if mine, I'd remove the knee and it looks like the wood could be pulled out from BELOW. The knee would be toot simple to rivet back in place.

Now with it all sealed from above ... how did it get wet?

 

[gogittum]

As said above, remove all rivets, including the end caps, and go for it. For re-assembling, consider the closed end pop rivets. I replaced 170 rivets in the bottom of my 16 ft Starcraft Seafarer a few months ago and used the 3/16" closed end rivets with steel mandrels. They're extremely difficult to pop with the little hand popping tool that comes in the kits, but Harbor Freight sells a really nice, heavy duty 2 handled popper for $20 that handles them easily. It even has a catch jar for the stems.

I coated each rivet liberally with 5200, stuck them in and popped them. They suck down tight and are "Very Strong." The only leaks were a couple where I'd drilled out the old, corroded rivets and missed putting in new ones. Haha....I found those leaks in a hurry.....3/16" hole makes a dandy little fountain.

The few times I've ever drilled out larger rivets, I've simply used SS bolts to replace them. I don't have tools nor a buddy to help buck new rivets.