Do I need a Fuse Box If I Use A Panel WIth Breakers On Switc

[driz]

I have gone through my 85 V17 Tracker right to the hull. Starting to get done now and the electrics are next. I used all the existing wiring that was serviceable in pretty much it's old configuration. My old fuse box and the existing rocker switches are old and nasty so will be going with one of those marine rocker panel setups with the breakers right under. Is there any reason I need a fuse panel in addition to this new rig? I can't see one myself.

 

[Al U Minium]

As long as the breakers are sized to protect the load, fuses are not necessary.

 

[driz]

Thanks, I couldn't see any reason myself either. I just was wondering if there was some outside the box reason for having a fuse box. My order for a double battery disconnect and one of China's finest modern 8 switch panels went in today. If my luck holds it will just nicely fit in the huge hole the prior owner put in there for his radio I guess.

 

[RivRunR]

If there's not already one there, you should have a circuit breaker on the wire between the battery and the switch/breaker panel.
Best practice is to put it within 6"-7" of the battery, with an amp rating matching the load on the panel.
I prefer manual reset breakers so I know if there's a problem.

 

[DaleH]

If there's not already one there, you should have a circuit breaker on the wire between the battery and the switch/breaker panel.

... or circuit protection, as a properly sized/installed in-line fuse holder would certainly work. And for my use on saltwater boats, they are definitely superior in exposure/environment/elements protection. Personally I've also have never even seen or have had any fuse blow on a boat I've ever rigged.

But YES ... main run circuit protection is most definitely needed!

Best practice is to put it within 6"-7" of the battery, with an amp rating matching the load on the panel.

I now prefer to advise people to have an amp rating protection device (breaker or fuse) sized to the ampacity of the main wiring run or the panel, whichever is lower. As an example on a boat I just rigged, 10AWG was suitable for the main run length and total loads rigged (w/ overhead for expansion of course), but the panel itself was rated at 3-times that value ... :shock: . Now that's an accident waiting to happen, for if something happened and one exceeded the ampacity rating of the wiring ... you'd have a fire.

Remember everybody ... circuit protection (breaker or fuse) is there to PROTECT THE WIRING (and you're boat from a fire!) ... it is NOT there to protect your fishfinder or other device from dmage ...

ABYC Wiring Standards and CFR
The standards that apply to wiring your boat in the US are the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards and the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) - Title 33 CFR Sections 183.401 - 183.460.
- The ABYC standards are voluntary and the CFR standards are mandatory.
- The ABYC standards incorporate the CFR standards, so a boat built to ABYC Standards should automatically meet the CFR standards.

https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/ibr/001/abyc.E-09.1990.pdf