Drill that boat full of holes...

[Boat2fast]

I toss and turn all night before I have to drill a hole in an aluminum boat. It is a permanent action that can never be reversed. I just love it when I go to look at a nice classic aluminum boat and it looks like Swiss Cheese from all the "modifications" over the years.

One place that I never want to see holes drilled is below the water line. So how do you mount a transducer??

My idea is to mount the xducer to a piece of wood or plastic and bond it to the hull with 3M 5200. I got the idea when I tried to take a 70hp Johnson off my 64 Crestliner. All the bolts were out but the engine wouldn't let go of the hull. I picked up the whole back of the boat and trailer with the engine hoist. It seems that I used a little too much 5200 sealing the through-bolts. The extra sealer that squeezed out glued the engine to the plywood mounting board. It never did let go and some of the plywood split off and stayed on the engine. This was marine plywood only a year old.

That changed my whole way of thinking about drills, screws, and holes in my precious aluminum hulls. Now my first thought is, can I attach the do-dad with a bond rather than screws/bolts. The bond is flexible and can be removed, eventually, with a putty knife....but at least you're not left with a hole.

Does anyone have any similar experiences? I think everyone can benefit.

**************

 

[DrNip]

People 5200 cutting boards to their hull for their transducer. I'm going to have a bracket welded to mine.

 

[Snowshoe]

This works great.https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search_catalog_command.cmd?fromProductSearch=true&item1=1K-010095

 

[redbug]

Snowshoe » Mon Mar 03, 2014 3:30 pm[/url]"]This works great.https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search_catalog_command.cmd?fromProductSearch=true&item1=1K-010095

That looks like a great idea but a lot of guys on this board will never spend that kind of money no matter how well it will work
good find

 

[overboard]

I don't like drilling holes either!
I like to post this pic. of a homemade transducer bracket. Some guys get a kick out of it, but it works just as good as one you buy!
I have this same setup on 2 different boats, and never had a problem.
I think on the next one I would do as suggested, and glue something like a cutting board onto the hull, and then only drill into that.

 

[ccm]

I don't like to drill holes either but that decision was already made for me. I just reused the two holes to mount my transducer; I used SS bolts with washers and locknuts and a dab of marine epoxy. Hasn't leaked yet. Cutting board idea sounds real good to me.

 

[jojo]

I thought the same way and have realized it's not a big deal. Most boats have the transducer drilled into it. Either directly or through a board that is screwed in. It is reversible because you can always weld those holes back in.

 

[DrNip]

I'm really not to worried about it either as long as it is done right and not over done. But I can see your point though if it is a boat that has changed ownership numerous times.

 

[BigTerp]

I'm not concerned with holes in my hull either. As long as it's not overdone, it's nothing a good welder can't fix. I really should sit down and count the number of holes I've drilled in my hull, mostly above the water line, might surprise myself.

 

[S&MFISH]

I don't worry about holes in mine either, I drilled two(for a transducer) in mine right after we we bought it new. As long as the proper sealant is used correctly, they will never leak. And, if they do,just reseal them. Not a big deal.

 

[nlester]

Snowshoe » Yesterday, 14:30[/url]"]This works great.https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search_catalog_command.cmd?fromProductSearch=true&item1=1K-010095

Works okay but if you adjust it a little low, the bracket will throw a rooster tail of water over your head.

One odd ball suggestion is to use the suction cup portable mount but instead of relying on suction to hold it in place, silicone it to the transom. It lets you move it around until you find the right spot and glue it in place. A drawback is that very year or so, you have to scrap it off and put a new one on.

 

[Snowshoe]

nlester » 04 Mar 2014, 22:54[/url]"]

Snowshoe » Yesterday, 14:30[/url]"]This works great.https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search_catalog_command.cmd?fromProductSearch=true&item1=1K-010095

Works okay but if you adjust it a little low, the bracket will throw a rooster tail of water over your head.

Takes a minute or so to readjust it.

 

[bcbouy]

once i drilled the hole for my thru hull fitting for the bilge,there was no turning back.if i ever need to relocate my transducer i'll grind the old screws flush and they should be ok.i used lots of 5200 when i screwed them in.a dab of black paint and they'll be invisible.

 

[Rat]

It's like crack...
Once you drill one hole in that hull, the others come waaaaay too easy! Stainless screws and 5200...

 

[marlattrr]

google "stern saver" basically cutting board expoxied to the boat. Works great, stern saver give you the epoxy and everything you need to install it.

 

[jojo]

marlattrr » Today, 05:48[/url]"]google "stern saver" basically cutting board expoxied to the boat. Works great, stern saver give you the epoxy and everything you need to install it.

I thought about using that before but couldn't pay that much for it.

 

[thill]

I always mount a transducer plate to the back of my boat, no matter what kind of boat it is.

My reason is both to save the hull, and also to allow me to move the transducer around to get perfect pictures regardless of speed. Sometimes, the first spot works perfectly, but often you have to move them around to find the sweet spot.

A transducer plate is the easiest way to do this without having to pepper the boat with holes.

-TH

 

[ol sarge]

I just bought 2 8x10 cutting boards for $3.99 a piece and I am going to glue them together and then afix that to my transom so I can mount my transducer. I had been using a suction cup since I have a portable humminbird but it would lose signal at speed and after doing some research I found that the suction cups are not for at speed use, only trolling. I bought a new bracket for the transducer for $12 so I am only into this for about $18. I just need to go by some 5200 and get this thing hooked up. The good thing is that when the time comes to up grade, the holes are in the cutting board, not my transom. Photos to follow.

tim

 

[juggernot]

overboard » 03 Mar 2014, 18:10[/url]"]I don't like drilling holes either!
I like to post this pic. of a homemade transducer bracket. Some guys get a kick out of it, but it works just as good as one you buy!
I have this same setup on 2 different boats, and never had a problem.
I think on the next one I would do as suggested, and glue something like a cutting board onto the hull, and then only drill into that.

Is that a crutch leg? Awesome!

 

[juggernot]

ol sarge » 26 Mar 2014, 11:56[/url]"]I just bought 2 8x10 cutting boards for $3.99 a piece and I am going to glue them together and then afix that to my transom so I can mount my transducer. I had been using a suction cup since I have a portable humminbird but it would lose signal at speed and after doing some research I found that the suction cups are not for at speed use, only trolling. I bought a new bracket for the transducer for $12 so I am only into this for about $18. I just need to go by some 5200 and get this thing hooked up. The good thing is that when the time comes to up grade, the holes are in the cutting board, not my transom. Photos to follow.

tim

cutting boards are great for fabbing stuff. I used it to make a mount for my house hose bib to attach the spigot to the siding. I've also used it to make a nice combo base for the bowlight and cleat on my dad's jonboat thats shaped like a stopsign and edges are 45d to not hang shoes or lines/rope. I used 2 pieces to sandwich/hold SS bolts heads so the threads stick out like studs to mount my fuel/water separating filters mount. The 2 pieces of cutting board are screwed to the side of the bilge area and all the fab jobs are neat and very sturdy. I like to cut it w my 10" compound miter saw and can 45 sharp corners and square edges. It also is easy to shape or smooth cut edges w a file. If you pre drill holes smaller than the threads Stainless wood screws will hold very tight in the cutting boards and it's easy to counter sink them by using a screwhead sized bit to make a divot.