Extending trolling motor battery wire

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Riverdog

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I don't know why it's so hard to find replacement wire for trolling motors. I finally found this one. A 10 ga wire for Minn Kota. I currently have the jumper cable type extension. Have had it since 2013 and has worked pretty good. Tends to get a little warm at full load and not marine grade. I only need about four feet and it's only 55lb thrust, so I assume 10 ga is OK.
https://www.fish307.com/minn-kota-trolling-motor-part-leadwire-10-ga-max-at-hand-2090650/
The price is right too.
 
Well, dang it. It suggest an 8ga wire.
I did find an 8AWG Flexible 2 Conductor Parallel Cable on Amazon. Looks like the original trolling motor lead and is flexible. $79.99 though and doesn't say marine grade.


https://www.amazon.com/EvZ-Conductor-Temperature-Resistant-Extension/dp/B07H3VQVLH/ref=asc_df_B07H3VQVLH/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589102211927&psc=1
 

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Other than the terminal ends, you don't need anything "Minn Kota Specific". And even the terminal ends can be found easily. I got ALL of my wire, terminal fittings, etc. from https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/ when I wired my boat. Zero issues with anything in the 6 years since I wired everything up. As long as you get the proper AWG size and ensure that the wire is tinned, it will be fine for any marine application.

Here is 8 AWG tinned wire for .79 cents a foot.
https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/i..._id=12&zenid=608b17a8cf6f7e4f7123a84c9dd700c7

You should be able to find the terminal fittings you need here as well.
https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9

I recently bought a used 24V 74# Minn Kota Maxxum. Got it installed on the boat, wired up and it wouldn't run. Figured the control board in the foot pedal was bad. Tested it and found a lot of the connections were corroded. Cut out the corrosion, replaced the female QD's with ones I got from my local electrical supply company for a few bucks and all was good. Had it out for the first time and the head would get so hot it would start smoking. Got it home, opened the head and found the power wires in the head were also corroded (luckily they didn't catch fire!!). I cut out the section of wires that were corroded, replaced them with the proper size (10AWG) tinned wire and connected them with tinned heat shrink butt connectors. Runs like a champ now. Point is, for wiring you don't need anything manufacturer specific, in a sense. As long as you use the proper size and type of wire and the proper terminal ends/connections all will be good.
 
When i removed the starter battery and moved the TM battery to the front of the boat i found it was cheaper to use long jumper cables with the clamps cut off. it was a heavier gauge and i didnt have to run 2 separate wires. i feed it through PVC conduit and it was good to go.
 
BigTerp said:
Other than the terminal ends, you don't need anything "Minn Kota Specific". And even the terminal ends can be found easily. I got ALL of my wire, terminal fittings, etc. from https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/ when I wired my boat. Zero issues with anything in the 6 years since I wired everything up. As long as you get the proper AWG size and ensure that the wire is tinned, it will be fine for any marine application.

Here is 8 AWG tinned wire for .79 cents a foot.
https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/i..._id=12&zenid=608b17a8cf6f7e4f7123a84c9dd700c7

You should be able to find the terminal fittings you need here as well.
https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9

I recently bought a used 24V 74# Minn Kota Maxxum. Got it installed on the boat, wired up and it wouldn't run. Figured the control board in the foot pedal was bad. Tested it and found a lot of the connections were corroded. Cut out the corrosion, replaced the female QD's with ones I got from my local electrical supply company for a few bucks and all was good. Had it out for the first time and the head would get so hot it would start smoking. Got it home, opened the head and found the power wires in the head were also corroded (luckily they didn't catch fire!!). I cut out the section of wires that were corroded, replaced them with the proper size (10AWG) tinned wire and connected them with tinned heat shrink butt connectors. Runs like a champ now. Point is, for wiring you don't need anything manufacturer specific, in a sense. As long as you use the proper size and type of wire and the proper terminal ends/connections all will be good.

I like that website, thanks. Since the wire will be laying across the deck, I wanted something that looked like the original dual wire lead cable. Something that had the same flex. I actually have a motorguide trolling motor. Could not find a replacement lead wire for it. minn kota is the only one I could find. Funny, in the chart about the 70lb 24v motor would be OK with the 10 ga wire. I did go ahead and buy the 8 Gauge Tinned Copper Silicone Rubber Wire posted above. May go ahead and replace the entire length with one peace since I'll have enough.
 
lovedr79 said:
When i removed the starter battery and moved the TM battery to the front of the boat i found it was cheaper to use long jumper cables with the clamps cut off. it was a heavier gauge and i didnt have to run 2 separate wires. i feed it through PVC conduit and it was good to go.

That is what I'm running now. Have had it since 2013. Does get a little warm when running full power for long periods. I love sitting on the front deck trolling back down the river with an adult beverage. That's my kind of heaven.
 
Riverdog said:
I like that website, thanks. Since the wire will be laying across the deck, I wanted something that looked like the original dual wire lead cable. Something that had the same flex. I actually have a motorguide trolling motor. Could not find a replacement lead wire for it. minn kota is the only one I could find. Funny, in the chart about the 70lb 24v motor would be OK with the 10 ga wire. I did go ahead and buy the 8 Gauge Tinned Copper Silicone Rubber Wire posted above. May go ahead and replace the entire length with one peace since I'll have enough.

I bought a ton of stuff from those guys when I wired my boat from scratch. Good, high quality stuff. You'll be fine with the wire you got from Amazon though. Just figured you could save some money ordering by the foot. And I'm able to use smaller wire with my setup compared to yours because when you go from 12V to 24V or 36V you are increasing voltage but decreasing amperage, hence the ability to use smaller gauge wires. A 50# at 12V draws 50 amps at peak. A 101# at 36V has a peak draw of 46 amps. Also, my batteries are under the front deck, so it's a pretty short run from battery to trolling motor which also allows for smaller wire.
 
Just a word of caution. Be aware that not all the wires sold on Amazon are not tinned marine. For myself, I will only use tinned marine wire. I have had a bad experience with non tinned marine wire. I was just lucky to catch it in time, but did burn my hand.
 
This is an old thread, but I’ll add to the discussion for future searchers.
I use Monster 8ga tinned OFC car audio power cable. It’s about 14’ of length running my MK 36 volt 101# TM. I’ve had that on the boat for about 8 years now with no issues.
 

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