Factory Bench Seat Removal and Hull Repair Help.

[ben2go]

#-o #-o #-o I wanna say bad words at this point.I went out this morning to start the modifications to my boat.I think it's a 1032 Gamefisher.The previous owner was Merrietta Camp.The kids did the up keep and mods.They removed the flotation foam out of the 2 seats and bolted in 1 piece fiberglass swivel seats. #-o #-o #-o I can't get the old fiberglass seats out because the bolts are rusted in so bad.The heads are rounded badly and I can't get anything on them to break them.I had already planned to to install new structural supports and wood decks with fold down swivel seats.My problem is all the rivet holes that will be left after I remove the original aluminum bench seats.What would be the best way to seal them?I wanna use Alumiweld rods and a hand held torch.The problem here is the thinness of the aluminum hull.It's as thin or thinner that aluminum siding.I don't wanna warp the metal and cause it to be wavy.There is entirely to many holes for the screw and nut idea.When I replace the transom wood,I'll have to fill holes in it also.At this point I am open to all ideas.I would just stitch weld it but it's way to thin. ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) Oh, the reason I decided to go ahead and remove the bench seats, is because they are weak, have bowed down and cracked.There was no bracing underneath for the swivel seats.

 

[SlimeTime]

Go buy a cheap $20 - 4.5" angle grinder & some thin cut-off wheels. Use it to cut the heads off the seat bolts, and to cut the seat out. Don't remove the rivets, or the pieces riveted to the hull, just trim them down & de-burr them.

If you'd rather leave the seats in, then get a piece of 2X10 (or whatever matches the width of the seats) and use carriage bolts, with large fender washers under the seat to pull it back plumb & add support for the swivel-seats.

ST

 

[Waterwings]

ST's idea sounds like winner to me! . If the hull mat'l is that thin, I don't think I'd apply any torch heat to it to weld. Basically aluminum will not turn bright red like steel to give you an idea about how much you're applying. Aluminum just kinda melts and drops and you'll have a bigger hole to contend with.

 

[ben2go]

Go buy a cheap $20 - 4.5" angle grinder & some thin cut-off wheels. Use it to cut the heads off the seat bolts, and to cut the seat out. Don't remove the rivets, or the pieces riveted to the hull, just trim them down & de-burr them.

If you'd rather leave the seats in, then get a piece of 2X10 (or whatever matches the width of the seats) and use carriage bolts, with large fender washers under the seat to pull it back plumb & add support for the swivel-seats.

ST

Can't get a grinder into where the bolts are.I plan to remove the bench seats,build new aluminum bracing,seal the old rivet holes,and deck the boat.The old aluminum bench seats have bowed down and the aluminum has split.Also the rivets are loose holding the seats in.I was a pilot and aircraft mechanics aide so riveting isn't a big deal.The problem is sealing the rivet holes with metal.I wanna use alumiweld but I already talk to a sheet metal guy about this.He uses it all the time.He says my hull is close to 28 gauge metal and even heat from a propane torch would warp the metal.I could use a copper or brass heat sink behind the weld.This would help stop blow thru.

ST's idea sounds like winner to me! . If the hull mat'l is that thin, I don't think I'd apply any torch heat to it to weld. Basically aluminum will not turn bright red like steel to give you an idea about how much you're applying. Aluminum just kinda melts and drops and you'll have a bigger hole to contend with.

Yep.I am learning this.I have never welded thin sheet aluminum.I have welded plate.Way different.I wonder if something like JB Weld would work.I use NAPA metal epoxy on motorcycles all the time and have had no problems with leaky oil/gas tanks.These holes are only 1/8 to 1/4 inch.I haven't knocked any rivets out yet to measure them.

I'll figure something out.

 

[SlimeTime]

If you've got a grinder/cut-off wheel in your hand, then you can get to them............

Why don't you just reinstall rivets back into the holes instead of trying to weld them? Or, take it to a good TIG welder & pay to have it done. Have him show you he can weld a pop can together, if he can't then tell him "no thanks".

ST