failing lights

[slross83]

Well i bought a 1860 grizzly sportsman with 7 50w led seelites. port has 2, star has 2, and bow has 3. Three separate switches. All factory wiring. The problem im having is if i turn all switches on after a couple minutes all the lights will turn off and on repeatedly until i turn off one switch. Now if i turn off the bow the sides will stay good and run fine. But if i leave on the bow and one side which is 5 lights total then a few minutes later the same thing will happen. Bottom line 4 lights im fine but when that 5th turns on it goes off and on. I'm no electrician but they are ran to 2 12v batteries in parallel. This whole system is 12v. Previous owner said he didn't have the issue. I spoke to his mechanic and he said the wire size wouldn't be the problem because it ran fine for 5 years that way. So any ideas would be much appreciated. Weak failing fuse? undersized fuse somewhere? Bad batteries? Idk. Thanks for your help

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

I would get a voltmeter & check voltage when it is acting up, starting at the battery & then check every junction , like fuse, switch, etc. Sounds like a failing circuit breaker to me.

 

[DaleH]

Might have worked when NEW but improperly sized wires (if too small) will be compromised when corrosion builds up. But also know that corrosion in the wires or on any of the connections will increase resistance, which causes heat, which trips circuit breakers.

I'd clean the heck out of everything and apply dielectric grease, with that faulty light being the 1sst target, LOL, but you should clean EVERYTHING!

Watts divided by Volts = Amp draw, so 55W / 12.6 nominal DC voltage = 4.4 amps per light and that's not too much, but depends really on how many lights per circuit and the TOTAL length (both to and from the light, from the power source). For example using the ampacity chart attached, if say 2 lights per run, 10' away from power, that is a 20' total length circuit and you'd need 16 AWG for the 2 lights.

FWIW, when I rig my boats - for overhead - I typically go one wire size below the recommendation and haven't had a failed circuit or device in 30+ years of rigging my own boats or those for others, of which there have been many dozens and dozens.
,,,
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[InSaneFisherMan]

Well i bought a 1860 grizzly sportsman with 7 50w led seelites. port has 2, star has 2, and bow has 3. Three separate switches. All factory wiring. The problem im having is if i turn all switches on after a couple minutes all the lights will turn off and on repeatedly until i turn off one switch. Now if i turn off the bow the sides will stay good and run fine. But if i leave on the bow and one side which is 5 lights total then a few minutes later the same thing will happen. Bottom line 4 lights im fine but when that 5th turns on it goes off and on. I'm no electrician but they are ran to 2 12v batteries in parallel. This whole system is 12v. Previous owner said he didn't have the issue. I spoke to his mechanic and he said the wire size wouldn't be the problem because it ran fine for 5 years that way. So any ideas would be much appreciated. Weak failing fuse? undersized fuse somewhere? Bad batteries? Idk. Thanks for your help

This info is based on little knowledge of how you boat is actually wired, but should help.
Undersized fuse would blow, oversized fuse would not provide over current protection. Probably not a fuse.
2 12 Vdc batteries in parallel, not likely battery issue. These leds list there actual watts, not estimate. So you are using approximately 32.2 amps with all 7 leds on. To illuminate the batteries, with a volt meter connected to battery, the volts should stay around 12.6vdc (charged batteries) with the lights on/flashing and also when the lights are off.
Since 3 separate switches, a common failure causes all to shut down. Most likely a corroded terminal, bad splice, or loose connection.
If the lights are on the same fuse, (probably 30a or larger & switches wired in Parallel) check the main wires between fuse panel and switches for corrosion, and good connection.
If you have bladed fuses, pull them and check for corrosion, if cartridge - remove and inspect for corrosion, if circuit breakers - reset them or check with multi meter.
If each light has separate fuses, chances of 3 bad circuits is slim, more likely the return side has bad connection. Check the (-) or return side of the lights for corrosion, and good connection., they probably tie together at a bus bar in one location.
Not likely power connection between battery and fuse panel, you would have other issues with voltage

 

[GTS225]

Do they turn off and on in a regular fashion, as if on a timer, or is it an irregular, intermittent flashing? How long do they stay off, if a regular on/off flashing?
There could be a thermal breaker somewhere that you weren't told about, if a regular flashing. Heck, there could be a breaker incorporated into a switch that is effecting the circuit, that no one knew about.

Either way, the symptoms do suggest an overcurrent problem, and corroded connections will do that. Looks like you're going to have to check all the wiring for them.

Roger

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

This is the spec for a new 1860, so if yours is similar, troubleshooting info I provided in earlier post won't help if you have the AC leds, and inverter. Also it list a separate cranking and trolling motor.

If yours is wired like this one, you probably have a bad battery or inverter.

Electrical

NEW LED bow navigation light
Eight 50W, 5,000-lumen 120V A/C LED lights around the front deck to navigate & illuminate your prey
500 GPH (1892.71 LPH) bilge pump
Console courtesy lighting
Interior courtesy lighting
2 Interstate® batteries: 1 cranking & 1 trolling
Onboard FIRMAN® W2100i, 1700W Inverter generator to power LED lighting
Rocker switches for nav lights, bilge pump & aerator pump

 

[slross83]

so heres a breakdown of wiring. i attached a basic pic. I narrowed it down to the 40 amp short stop. It keeps tripping. I took the wire off one lug and connect both to same lug and lights never shut off. But the wires were getting real hot at the short stop so i killed the power. I didnt wanna burn something. But they were only hot by the short stop. 6 inches either way wire was fine. ran to store bought another 40 amp short stop but same problem. Maybe wire size. Idk. the 8 aguge wire is probaly 15 ft. then 14 gauge wire is like 5 ft to lights. forgot to add 3 panel fuses above switches. 20amp a piece. also my lights are all dc. not like the new ones.

Edit. The positives on baterries are not connected. They connect when I turn 12all switch to all.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

so heres a breakdown of wiring. i attached a basic pic. I narrowed it down to the 40 amp short stop. It keeps tripping. I took the wire off one lug and connect both to same lug and lights never shut off. But the wires were getting real hot at the short stop so i killed the power. I didnt wanna burn something. But they were only hot by the short stop. 6 inches either way wire was fine. ran to store bought another 40 amp short stop but same problem. Maybe wire size. Idk. the 8 aguge wire is probaly 15 ft. then 14 gauge wire is like 5 ft to lights. forgot to add 3 panel fuses above switches. 20amp a piece. also my lights are all dc. not like the new ones.

Edit. The positives on baterries are not connected. They connect when I turn 12all switch to all.

Is the (-) side wiring the same size as the positive, from lights to battery?

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

The 40a short stop is a auto reset 40a circuit breaker.

The circuit from the circuit breaker to the lights and back to the (-) battery is drawing more than 40a, causing the auto reset or flashing.

The branch circuits are not exceeding 20a or you would blow a fuse.

Are the lights they only items on the fuses and are they fused, left, right, and forward?

Check all of your terminals on (+) & (-) side of the lights and inspect wiring for shorts. Check the switches for corrosion.

Also the 20a fuses seem too large and could hide a problem with the branch circuit. 2 lights would only use 9.2amps, 3 lights would 13.8 amps. Check the manual for proper size fuses.

If the wire and terminals are good, it could be as simple as a bad light or lights exceeding their design spec. With all lights on you should be at 32.2 amps. 7.8 amps from tripping the short stop.

 

[slross83]

The 40a short stop is a auto reset 40a circuit breaker.

The circuit from the circuit breaker to the lights and back to the (-) battery is drawing more than 40a, causing the auto reset or flashing.

The branch circuits are not exceeding 20a or you would blow a fuse.

Are the lights they only items on the fuses and are they fused, left, right, and forward?

Check all of your terminals on (+) & (-) side of the lights and inspect wiring for shorts. Check the switches for corrosion.

Also the 20a fuses seem too large and could hide a problem with the branch circuit. 2 lights would only use 9.2amps, 3 lights would 13.8 amps. Check the manual for proper size fuses.

If the wire and terminals are good, it could be as simple as a bad light or lights exceeding their design spec. With all lights on you should be at 32.2 amps. 7.8 amps from tripping the short stop.

yes fused left right center.
20 amp fuses is spec at the switch panel.
circuit is lights only. nothing else.
ive inspected all connections everything looks good. What i may just do is run 6gauge and up the fuse to 50. see if that fixes. Or run another hot to split the circuit. Would i need to run another negative?

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Negative & positive wire sizes need to be the same.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Both (+)&(-) wires need to handle the same current, so they need to be the same.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Before you run new wire, if available, I would use a clamp on amp meter and check each light branch current. These branches should add up to 32 amps should indicate any problems.

Is your boat used in saltwater environment?

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

I think this device works on ATC blade style fuses, and will tell you the current draw at each fuse.

Not a sales person, but this may help with your light issue.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Another simple procedure is to take your batteries to an auto parts store. They will normally do a load test on the battery free of charge.

This load test will determine if the internal resistance of the battery is within tolerance.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Just checking to see if you found the problem with your lights?

 

[gogittum]

The 40a short stop is a auto reset 40a circuit breaker.

The circuit from the circuit breaker to the lights and back to the (-) battery is drawing more than 40a, causing the auto reset or flashing.

The branch circuits are not exceeding 20a or you would blow a fuse.

I have to agree with ISF. I had a similar problem with a trailer winch cutting out when pulling my boat back on. Turned out to be 2 things: 1) loose and corroded wiring connections, which I completely re-did with heavier gauge wiring. 2) Auto re-setting breaker at battery was failing, which was the main problem. The wiring didn't help, but replacing the breaker ended the problem. Before the repair, that wiring would get HOT when pulling the boat on.