floor install question

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pymybob

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I'm beginning to gather the supplies needed to put in a floor and a casting deck for my Sea Nymph 14R this winter. I've found the marine plywood I'm going to use and have a question. Should I spar varnish the floor section or not ? The top will be carpeted but not the bottom. With it being marine grade ply, should I even bother with it?
 
I coat all edges a minimum of 3X times.

I also only seal edges when ambient temps are dropping. As wood warms up, air bubbles are released and you may see this in finished surfaces as an 'orange peel-like' effect. One can also slightly warm the wood (heat gun or hair dryer) and as it is cooling off - seal it, as that actually draws the finish deeper into the pores.

FWIW this is an old wooden boat wood workers' trick~!
 
DaleH said:
I coat all edges a minimum of 3X times.

I also only seal edges when ambient temps are dropping. As wood warms up, air bubbles are released and you may see this in finished surfaces as an 'orange peel-like' effect. One can also slightly warm the wood (heat gun or hair dryer) and as it is cooling off - seal it, as that actually draws the finish deeper into the pores.

FWIW this is an old wooden boat wood workers' trick~!

Far out, quite helpful.... Thanks!
 
I coat all of the wood going in my boat with 3 layers of Spar Urethane. Pre fit it and pre-drill any bolt holes a little bigger than needed, and make sure to coat those as well.
 
Better yet mix up 1 part Boiled linseed oil, 1 part mineral spirits and 2 parts spar. Apply until it puddles and wipe excess. Let dry for 48hrs then apply 3 coats spar.

This really works, I've used it many times and will be doing it again this week on some ply for a transom replacement in a Sea Nymph.

I know you're going to say that's a lot of work and time but it really is worth the effort.
 
Better yet, don't use wood at all. Use aluminum. It requires no finish, will never need to be replaced and the best part of all, its cheaper. In fact, if you do a little homework you can find it for the same price I paid, FREE. And I have enough left for my next boat!
 
Go with aluminum. Have had 3 flat bottom jets and have had the perforated aluminum floor in all three. Will not own a boat with anything other than aluminum. Seeing some folks local using a thin layer of spray in bed liner on their aluminum forward decks. All our boat shops where I am from fabricate whatever u want out of alum. Go to the website thejetdoctor and get some ideas.
 
I used standard plywood and gave it 3 coats of thompsons water seal after all the pieces were cut so to make sure all edges got sealed then I glued the carpet down. the thompsons makes the water just bead right off. The only reason I didnt use Marine grade was cost and weight, also I'm going to switch mine over to an aluminum deck as soon as I gather enough aluminum to do so. To be honest I decked out a buddies boat five years ago using the same process and its held up awesome.
 
MDBowhunter said:
I used standard plywood and gave it 3 coats of thompsons water seal after all the pieces were cut so to make sure all edges got sealed then I glued the carpet down. the thompsons makes the water just bead right off. The only reason I didnt use Marine grade was cost and weight, also I'm going to switch mine over to an aluminum deck as soon as I gather enough aluminum to do so. To be honest I decked out a buddies boat five years ago using the same process and its held up awesome.

Did the same and it has held up like new. I think it all depends on whether you salt water fish or freshwater fish also. I do only freshwater fishing and it hasnt rained on me yet while being out along with how I store the boat with a cover and then the boat is placed under another cover with a tarp. It keeps all moisture out for the most part.
 

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