I don't have the layout completed yet as i am still gutting the boat. However, I will be using for duck hunting so I am increasing the floor space and decreasing the deck size. I would say 25% rear deck compartment/50% floor/25% front deck compartment
Below is a link to find local(ish) suppliers. I used it for my floor and found it easy to work with if you need to make minor adjustments, such as cut-outs for ribs. The type and thickness of Coosa you buy will depend upon the span between supports. They will respond to those questions via email. It is expensive and only worth it if you plan to keep the boat long term.
3 sheets for that total doesn't sound like a bad price to me.
Don't know where you are but you should try some of the industrial suppliers too. While I decided against Al for my project, I found I could get 12x4 sheets delivered for less than a 4x8 will call from the local "supermarkets."
I had good luck buying marine ply from a boat builder/refitter in the area. If you buy the Lloyd's certified stuff you should be ok. Price might be more but per your experience--worth it in the long run.
I’ve had a couple of issues with marine plywood in eastern Washington. Might have better luck finding it in Seattle or Portland but, that’s a 5 hr drive one way. My original thought was aluminum and 5052 actually costs less than marine ply by the time you add the epoxy and other prep for the wood.
You're right on cost. I went with Coosa because it works like wood and as a long time woodworker I feel confident I know what I'm doing with it and I have all the tools. Al would cost me more because I'd need some tools to do what I wanted to do. But my framing is all Al because most wood just isn't going to last.
Did you find the Coosa overly dusty or fibrous?
Coosa is very dusty and far worse than FG batting for tiny glass slivers. For the most part I worked it outside or with good dust collection in the shop. Dust mask, rubberized gloves, long shirt and pants, etc for PPE. I just hate days of FG itch. I've been sensitized to most wood dust over the years so I'm used to wearing a mask all day in the shop. RZ Mask gets an (uncompensated) thumbs up from me for a comfortable option.
I screwed the coosa down and have had no problems, but it's not high strength for screws for something that would apply torque to the screws. You would need to take special precautions for things such as a leaning post, seats or T-top, such as drilling a larger hole and filling with epoxy and screwing into expoxy, or using some sort of backer. This is a coosa recommendation. In some ways this would be the case for thinner plywood, but maybe a little worse for coosa.
