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Framing question
- Thread starter Bucket69
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Skiffing
Well-known member
Don't use pressure treated wood. It contains:
Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA-C), Alkaline Copper Quat (ACQ-C, ACQ-D, ACQ-D Carbonate), Micronized Copper Quat (MCQ), Copper Azole (CA-B & CA-C, μCA-C) and Sodium Borates (SBX/DOT).
Those chemicals will leach out of the wood and corrode aluminum.
Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA-C), Alkaline Copper Quat (ACQ-C, ACQ-D, ACQ-D Carbonate), Micronized Copper Quat (MCQ), Copper Azole (CA-B & CA-C, μCA-C) and Sodium Borates (SBX/DOT).
Those chemicals will leach out of the wood and corrode aluminum.
richg99
Well-known member
I'm a wood kind of guy. Built everything from a 16 ft dory to a house addition over the years.
Yet, from what I have learned on this site...I'd look hard at using aluminum for your framing. Light, strong, and mates well with your aluminum boat.
Heck, if I was adding a deck onto a fiberglass boat, I'd now look at using aluminum first. If it cost that holds you back, I've seen some nice builds using junk ladder pieces as the main framing.
Don't buy your aluminum from the big box stores. Go to a metal supplier. I was shocked at the price difference of a simple piece of aluminum used to make a kayak rudder.
richg99
Yet, from what I have learned on this site...I'd look hard at using aluminum for your framing. Light, strong, and mates well with your aluminum boat.
Heck, if I was adding a deck onto a fiberglass boat, I'd now look at using aluminum first. If it cost that holds you back, I've seen some nice builds using junk ladder pieces as the main framing.
Don't buy your aluminum from the big box stores. Go to a metal supplier. I was shocked at the price difference of a simple piece of aluminum used to make a kayak rudder.
richg99
yes, "popular opinion" is to avoid large areas of pressure treated materials
from having full contact with bare aluminum.
In MY opinion, blocking and bracing and the support structure can be a mix-match
of other woods or aluminum angles riveted or bolted to the hull.
Then, you can use pressure treated plywood for your decking. Although you "may" have
a problem with the adhesion of primers, paints and glue prior to putting down your carpet.
Just never-ever-never use it for stringers in the bilge or sandwiched to the transom.
Again, that is just my own personal opinion.
Good Luck
Rich, my father-in-law had a really nice older fiberglass boat that he picked up for a song
way back when . . . because the stringers under the bow were broken. When he asked me
to look at it, I saw that the manufacturer used a 2" cardboard roll and fiberglassed over it
to make the reinforcements for the bow deck. Some "big guy" broke it.... LOL and the P/O
tried to fix it with gluing sticks around it .....
We wound up cutting the entire bow out completely for more fishing room.
Now, with a LOT more experience under my keel, we could have cut out the factory messed up stuff
and encapsulated some 2" square aluminum tubing in fiberglass and it would still be rock hard steady today,
30 years later.
we learn as we grow.
My motto is this - - - - Learn One / Do One / Teach One (or three).
.
from having full contact with bare aluminum.
In MY opinion, blocking and bracing and the support structure can be a mix-match
of other woods or aluminum angles riveted or bolted to the hull.
Then, you can use pressure treated plywood for your decking. Although you "may" have
a problem with the adhesion of primers, paints and glue prior to putting down your carpet.
Just never-ever-never use it for stringers in the bilge or sandwiched to the transom.
Again, that is just my own personal opinion.
Good Luck
Rich, my father-in-law had a really nice older fiberglass boat that he picked up for a song
way back when . . . because the stringers under the bow were broken. When he asked me
to look at it, I saw that the manufacturer used a 2" cardboard roll and fiberglassed over it
to make the reinforcements for the bow deck. Some "big guy" broke it.... LOL and the P/O
tried to fix it with gluing sticks around it .....
We wound up cutting the entire bow out completely for more fishing room.
Now, with a LOT more experience under my keel, we could have cut out the factory messed up stuff
and encapsulated some 2" square aluminum tubing in fiberglass and it would still be rock hard steady today,
30 years later.
we learn as we grow.
My motto is this - - - - Learn One / Do One / Teach One (or three).
.
richg99
Well-known member
Just an additional comment regarding the use or pressure treated lumber on an aluminum ( or any other boat)...
Not only can it cause corrosion issues, but..that stuff weighs a TON!
Weight is a boater's enemy, whether it is in the construction of the boat or the size of the owner (me). Anything we can do to lower the weight is going to help the performance.
richg99
Not only can it cause corrosion issues, but..that stuff weighs a TON!
Weight is a boater's enemy, whether it is in the construction of the boat or the size of the owner (me). Anything we can do to lower the weight is going to help the performance.
richg99
Thanks for the info. I ended up just going with the 2x3 framing and 19/32 plywood. It was cheap and didn't take long, so if I decide I don't like it, I will just redo it. About the only thing I can think that I may not like is if it is too heavy to get the front up with the 9.9. Otherwise, I think I am going to like the little larger deck.
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