Fuel leaking around screws on metal gas can pick-up

[zuren]

Since this is motor related, I figured this is best place to post.

I have the original metal fuel tank for my engine. The other day, I accidently had the vent closed on the cap and the tank was in the sun. Fuel was venting up around some of the screws on the fuel pickup (see blue arrows). I have not had it apart, so I'm not sure if that behavior can be expected or if there should be gaskets/seals preventing that from happening. I wanted to ask what I should expect to see before I do any "exploratory surgery".

I can also get fuel to weep up around those screws if I give the tank a shake...as in, when I add 2-stroke oil and/or SeaFoam and trying to get it mixed...or if the ride on the water is particularly bumpy.

Thanks!

 

[wmk0002]

I can't speak to whether or not you should expect it or not as I never have used metal tanks before. But I do have a factory metal Yamaha tank I was in the process of restoring and it does indeed have a gasket there.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

I run a metal tank on my johnnyrude and had the same problem. You can probably find a replacement gasket but I just cleaned it up and let it dry. Then applied some orange rtv sealant and let it cure a couple days before using it. I did this with fuel in the tank and was just careful not to move it before the rtv cured. Not sure if necessary but I gooped up the screws as well. It's been good for 3 years so far.

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[Weldorthemagnificent]

This is what I used... because I had it in the garage. I keep it in my tackle box. In a pinch you can repair a hole in a boat on the shore and keep fishing. Don't ask me how I know! Lol.

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[DaleH]

Ditto the Permatex, even if you can source a new gasket. I never attach anything fuel related ‘dry’.

 

[Pappy]

In general the best and simplest thing to do is purchase a new seal (gasket) for it and go on with life. There is absolutely no need to add an RTV sealant to the gasket if the gasket is in good shape. That is a band aid and a dangerous one at that since we are dealing with gasoline.
The metal tanks are great and will vent if pressure exceeds the pressure relief valve. The plastic tanks do not have this feature.

 

[zuren]

The metal tanks are great and will vent if pressure exceeds the pressure relief valve. The plastic tanks do not have this feature.

Mine is a Mercury/Quicksilver tank. Where is the safety relief valve? There is the vent on the fill cap that I can manually thread open/closed. Considering that my tank was essentially sealed and being heated by the sun, the path of least resistance was around those mounting screws. If there was a valve, I would have assumed that would have opened first if it was operating correctly.

 

[Pappy]

Zuren, you are correct on the vented cap on the older Mercury tanks however you better believe the engineering staff involved would have never let that tank out the door if that were a common issue. In this forum we pretty much stay away from recommending band-aids in favor of proper repairs. Chances are your gasket is decades old, replace it and go on with boating!!

 

[zuren]

I pulled the pickup apart (stupidly easy) and found that the screws were a little loose...guess I should have checked that first. Tightening those up seems to have solved the issue.

That being said, the gasket is definitely old and looks like a replacement is anywhere between $5-10. I do have a partial roll of gasket material that I used for a differential cover on a vintage tractor. Is the material that would be good enough for diff. gear oil good for 2-stroke gasoline? Unfortunately, I don't think I have the paperwork for the material anymore that included its suggested uses.

 

[Pappy]

Well you certainly sound like you are capable of doing a proper repair. We use McMaster sometimes when gasket material is needed for our really old engines.