Grandpas Boat

[Gashauler]

New member here, been lurking for about a month or so. I have many questions.

My dad gave me his boat which used to be my grandpas. I grew up fishing in this boat with my grandpa and then with my dad. While it may be cheaper to buy a new one I can’t buy the memories that accompany it just sitting here let alone once I get it on the water.

According to the title it’s a 1958 starcraft. 12’. Rear appears to be 48” wide at the back. The accompanying trailer is an ‘53 little dude.

Aluminum appears to be in excellent condition but all of the wood is rotted and shot. I know it’s going to take some work. All of the screws were rusted and had to be ground off. I’m not sure about the wiring for lights etc

First things first I removed the transom board and bought a new one and because I’m somewhat of a moron bought the wrong size. Im just going to cut it to fit. Here’s the first question. Do I need to put anything on the wood or can I just paint it with outdoor paint and call it good? It was originally bolted in so (thanks to my lurking) I know I need to get stainless steel nuts bolts and washers. The 3ply plywood on the back is also rotted. Next question do I need to buy the same size or will thicker work. We have a 25 horse merc that will go back on it (that’s another one for later).

The seat board were also rotted (it sat in the woods for well over a decade) so I bought new wood for those as well. It appears I’m going to have to grind off the screws of this as well, same question as before can I just paint them or do I need to put something on them first?

Now to the paint. I’m going to take a power washer to it and then some fine sand paper and try to remove the flaking stuff and paint over what remains. The outside has paint along the top 4-6 inches but it’s chalky and faded so I’m going to hit that with some fine sand paper and paint over it with as close as I can get to the original color.

The trailer needs a good sanding and paint, wiring and lighting as well and new tires. The question here is do I need new bearings or can I grease them? Dad put grease covers over the bearings and they spin freely.

There are assorted things I forgot to mention but I know need to be replaced and are straight forward (trailer jack etc.) so I won’t ask about that stuff.

Thanks for the help and have enjoyed reading about everyone else’s builds.

 

[sonny1]

The respect I Have for my wife's brother and his favorite boat resulted in one build from hell. Not even close to getting her done yet. When I am finished I know he would be more than proud. I could very easily have bought a better boat and rebuilt it for far less. That ain't the point. Enough said.

 

[Gashauler]

The respect I Have for my wife's brother and his favorite boat resulted in one build from hell. Not even close to getting her done yet. When I am finished I know he would be more than proud. I could very easily have bought a better boat and rebuilt it for far less. That ain't the point. Enough said.

Yep. Like I said you can’t buy the memories.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Welcome.

Regular paint and primer will not last long. Maybe 2-3 years before it needs touch up. The time and effort to do the work, it’s worth making it last.

I prefer to seal with an epoxy based product, like gluvit. There are others. 2-3 coats on the edges, 1-2 on the faces. Many threads on that here.

Some report good results sealing with Thompsons. Might be more economical than epoxy.

I think the bench seats in my StarCraft, which had the same style brackets. were 3/4” thick. Sealed Exterior plywood worked very well.

You might want to test for leaking rivets before installing the new benches. Easier to re-buck or replace.

Take your time and ask questions and it will create many new memories for you and your children.

 

[Gashauler]

Ok. So I need to get the trailer up and running before I do anything else. I don’t have any way to get it to water without that so I guess I’ll start on the trailer before the boat.

 

[Kismet]

I rehabbed 6 or 7 old tins. It was work, but I enjoyed it more than fishing.

If you can look up the links below, you may be able to avoid some problems I had.

It is a worth-while project.


Best wishes.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I blocked the hull well and filled the boat about 1/3 with water to find leaks. Only had one leaky rivet. Be careful. It weighs allot.

 

[Gashauler]

Should be good then, it was 2/3 full when I pulled it out of the woods. First thing I bought was a bilge pump and battery so I could drain it without trying to tip it.

Also I looked up Gluvit. How much do I need to coat all three seat benches and the transom? That stuffs expensive but if I’m going to do this I want to do right but I don’t want to spend more than I need.

 

[TriBull]

New member here, been lurking for about a month or so. I have many questions.

My dad gave me his boat which used to be my grandpas. I grew up fishing in this boat with my grandpa and then with my dad. While it may be cheaper to buy a new one I can’t buy the memories that accompany it just sitting here let alone once I get it on the water.

According to the title it’s a 1958 starcraft. 12’. Rear appears to be 48” wide at the back. The accompanying trailer is an ‘53 little dude.

Aluminum appears to be in excellent condition but all of the wood is rotted and shot. I know it’s going to take some work. All of the screws were rusted and had to be ground off. I’m not sure about the wiring for lights etc

First things first I removed the transom board and bought a new one and because I’m somewhat of a moron bought the wrong size. Im just going to cut it to fit. Here’s the first question. Do I need to put anything on the wood or can I just paint it with outdoor paint and call it good? It was originally bolted in so (thanks to my lurking) I know I need to get stainless steel nuts bolts and washers. The 3ply plywood on the back is also rotted. Next question do I need to buy the same size or will thicker work. We have a 25 horse merc that will go back on it (that’s another one for later).

The seat board were also rotted (it sat in the woods for well over a decade) so I bought new wood for those as well. It appears I’m going to have to grind off the screws of this as well, same question as before can I just paint them or do I need to put something on them first?

Now to the paint. I’m going to take a power washer to it and then some fine sand paper and try to remove the flaking stuff and paint over what remains. The outside has paint along the top 4-6 inches but it’s chalky and faded so I’m going to hit that with some fine sand paper and paint over it with as close as I can get to the original color.

The trailer needs a good sanding and paint, wiring and lighting as well and new tires. The question here is do I need new bearings or can I grease them? Dad put grease covers over the bearings and they spin freely.

There are assorted things I forgot to mention but I know need to be replaced and are straight forward (trailer jack etc.) so I won’t ask about that stuff.

Thanks for the help and have enjoyed reading about everyone else’s builds.

That’s a great little 65 year old tiny! Add the memories and some elbow grease, and it'll be priceless! Done well, it could have another 65 years ahead, and who knows how many more memories… FuzzyGrub’s advice to take your time and do it right is good counsel!

I rehabbed a 50 year old 12’ StarCraft last year for the sole purpose of creating memories for my grandkids. So far I’ve had 6 of my 8 grands out on it. Here are some before/after pics:

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Should be good then, it was 2/3 full when I pulled it out of the woods. First thing I bought was a bilge pump and battery so I could drain it without trying to tip it.

Also I looked up Gluvit. How much do I need to coat all three seat benches and the transom? That stuffs expensive but if I’m going to do this I want to do right but I don’t want to spend more than I need.

I ordered a gallon and still have some left. For three bench seats and a transom, I’d guess a quart will do.

 

[Axhammer]

That’s a nice little boat you have there, full of memories, congrats.

If the trailer wheels spin freely, that’s is a good sign, but I would definitely pull the hubs & bearings so you can clean & inspect them. Check the race’s as well. My recent purchase, a (1992 Polar Craft 1751) lost a wheel bearing on the way home when I bought it, it had been sitting for a few years, unused.

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Ok here's my take. Since the boat is a family heirloom and contains such deep memories why not really make it something special restoration wise. I would pressure clean the hull inside and out, let it dry thoroughly then wire brush it down, follow that up with a wipe down with mineral spirits. After drying thoroughly spray it with a green zinc chromate paint (wear protective gear, respirator, etc). Zinc chromate is formulated for aluminum and used widely in the aviation industry for metal corrosion protection. It adheres and protects well the metal surfaces. It is important however that you do "suit up and wear a respirator" and not breath the fumes. None of this is a problem if you prepare in advance........you can't be casual with it like latex house paint. As to the wood.........why not use a beautiful white or red oak top coated with 3 coats of satin spar varnish. The whole project will turn out really beautiful and be admired by many..........Patience and preparation are the key to great end results. As to the trailer I say yes to new tires and wheel bearings and seals.........why take the risk with old ones........new bearings are not that expensive but a breakdown on the road is. You can likely find the original style decals for the boat on eBay, etc. I have done 2 1950's and one 1960's era Alumacraft boats as described here (one pictured in my profile) and they turned out better than new.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Red oak looks nice, but split on the grain in about 3 years. I won’t use it again. Plywood is much more stable. Sometime I protect the edges with right angle aluminum.

 

[airshot]

Reading your post, if that is really a 12 ft boat, your 25 hp motor is probably way to big. Most 12 footers that I have ever saw were in the 7.5 up to 15 hp rated. Was that 25 on that boat before?? Hope your restore project goes well, keep us posted on your progress, just make sure your safe and so is your newly finnished boat !!

 

[stro1400]

New member here, been lurking for about a month or so. I have many questions.

My dad gave me his boat which used to be my grandpas. I grew up fishing in this boat with my grandpa and then with my dad. While it may be cheaper to buy a new one I can’t buy the memories that accompany it just sitting here let alone once I get it on the water.

According to the title it’s a 1958 starcraft. 12’. Rear appears to be 48” wide at the back. The accompanying trailer is an ‘53 little dude.

Aluminum appears to be in excellent condition but all of the wood is rotted and shot. I know it’s going to take some work. All of the screws were rusted and had to be ground off. I’m not sure about the wiring for lights etc

First things first I removed the transom board and bought a new one and because I’m somewhat of a moron bought the wrong size. Im just going to cut it to fit. Here’s the first question. Do I need to put anything on the wood or can I just paint it with outdoor paint and call it good? It was originally bolted in so (thanks to my lurking) I know I need to get stainless steel nuts bolts and washers. The 3ply plywood on the back is also rotted. Next question do I need to buy the same size or will thicker work. We have a 25 horse merc that will go back on it (that’s another one for later).

The seat board were also rotted (it sat in the woods for well over a decade) so I bought new wood for those as well. It appears I’m going to have to grind off the screws of this as well, same question as before can I just paint them or do I need to put something on them first?

Now to the paint. I’m going to take a power washer to it and then some fine sand paper and try to remove the flaking stuff and paint over what remains. The outside has paint along the top 4-6 inches but it’s chalky and faded so I’m going to hit that with some fine sand paper and paint over it with as close as I can get to the original color.

The trailer needs a good sanding and paint, wiring and lighting as well and new tires. The question here is do I need new bearings or can I grease them? Dad put grease covers over the bearings and they spin freely.

There are assorted things I forgot to mention but I know need to be replaced and are straight forward (trailer jack etc.) so I won’t ask about that stuff.

Thanks for the help and have enjoyed reading about everyone else’s builds.

I too have a boat which is as close to my Grandpa’s. I repainted and fixed it up- Alumacraft from the 50’s. I love fishing in it as it reminds me of him, my Dad and oldest brother who all fished with me in Grandpa’s boat. Good stuff!

 

[Gashauler]

So a couple things I noticed. The transom I took out looked like a 2x6 so I bought another one (messed up and bought 2x10). I’m hoping this will work. I can cut down the board to fit but I’m noticing a definitive leaning towards plywood from everyone.

I’m on a budget and really want to put it back the way it was when I was growing up so I’m going to go with mint green on the outside stripe at the top and forest green on the interior floor and wood.

The 25 hp merc is actually the second motor. Dad and I were tooling across a backwater lake of the Illinois river headed out to the river at wide open throttle on an 18hp evinrude when he hit a submerged stump and messed it up so bad it wasn’t worth fixing so he put the 25 on it. The boat might be a 14’ I’ll have to measure it later this week.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I would not use the 2x6 in the transom. 3/4” ext grade plywood X 2. Use waterproof glue and allot clamps. Sealed with epoxy or other.

 

[mbullen]

Couple of things from my experience...
Not biblical stuff, but I've redone a few dozen tinnies and these are the ideas that have risen to my top.
-Gluvit is better suited for the hull, not the wood. The "seeking" nature of the composition is historically used to seal rivets and seams. It's not UV protected, so it will need a painted topcoat to last in any scenario. I've never tried it on wood, but it's a little too expensive for me to go experimenting with that kind of real estate. Lots of youtube footage for that stuff. Little bit goes a long way when you just use it in dabs.
-For sealing wood, I've found good results with fiberglass resin or a homebrew you can keyword known as the "old timer's formula". (spar, linseed oil, and mineral spirits - or acceptable substitutes) Or even a solid deck stain does a pretty decent job. (not a fan of Thompsons, for what it's worth)
-For the wood itself, try to steer clear of treated materials, whether it be dimensional lumber or plywood. The copper treatment will not play well with the aluminum. The sizes do not have to be exactly the same as what you removed. Whatever you can get to work or look good will be fine. If notching, however, use common sense that the notch isn't deep enough to compromise the lateral strength.
-As for the plywood, exterior glues and a good sealant at the minimum. On the other end of the spectrum, 9-ply marine grade is also available.
-it doesn't even have to be plywood replacing plywood, but solid wood gets a little sketchy when planed down to thicknesses under 3/4. I've found that a solid wood interior yoke and a ply exterior motor pad are a pretty good combo. Total thickness tends to float around 1.5in. but the widest width of your motor clamps will be the limiter.
-You're on the right track regarding the stainless hardware, already. 316 stainless is the preferred grade. Be sure to throw some type of sealer in the newly bored holes for the hardware, too.
-And finally, when painting aluminum, one definitely wants a zinc chromate or an epoxy primer if it's hitting bare aluminum. If your factory paint is already sticking well, you can just scuff it up and use it as your primer. Topcoats can come from a plethora of choices. If your boat is mostly trailered, any of them will work great. I use Rustoleum with a tractor paint hardner on my beaters. Total Boat products on the better stuff.
-Starcraft makes a great boat. With three transom knees in there, I suspect your 25 will be fine.
Enjoy the journey and keep us updated. (with the future boats, too, as it's probably going to become a bit addicting. lol)

 

[Gashauler]

I’m rapidly discovering my simple take off rotted wood sand old paint replace wood and repaint everything is not going to be as easy as I thought it was going to be. So I’m going to bite off chunks so I don’t feel so overwhelmed. First chunk is the exterior paint.

I got home from work and was looking at the exterior paint and noticed that some of it was worn down to the aluminum. So I’m guessing I should err on the side of caution and take all of it down, then prime it. Was really hoping to kind of cheat and just be able to paint over it but that’s not going to work.

Also I need to remove the decades of stickers. Is there an easy way or just good old fashioned elbow grease and a scraper?

 

[nate665]

I’m rapidly discovering my simple take off rotted wood sand old paint replace wood and repaint everything is not going to be as easy as I thought it was going to be. So I’m going to bite off chunks so I don’t feel so overwhelmed. First chunk is the exterior paint.

I got home from work and was looking at the exterior paint and noticed that some of it was worn down to the aluminum. So I’m guessing I should err on the side of caution and take all of it down, then prime it. Was really hoping to kind of cheat and just be able to paint over it but that’s not going to work.

Also I need to remove the decades of stickers. Is there an easy way or just good old fashioned elbow grease and a scraper?

Transom replacement, even "easy" ones are no joke. I just finished a 1983 15' StarCraft Jon boat. I didn't keep track, but with having to remove rear deck, all the aluminum sub frame underneath, all the bolts and rivets I had to remove, the gluing and coating of the plywood, etc, probably north of 40 man hours.