Grandpas Boat

[LDUBS]

Also I need to remove the decades of stickers. Is there an easy way or just good old fashioned elbow grease and a scraper?

I've not used it on my boat, but a product called Goo Gone works pretty well removing glue residue.

 

[LaqueRatt]

A little heat and those decals should come right off. I use a heat gun, but a hair dryer will also work. Last tinny I painted I just scraped the loose paint off, wiped it down with thinner and painted it with a brush. You'd have to get your nose up close to tell, but I've spent many hours swinging a paint brush and am pretty good at it. For a better finish without a lot of messing around, you can use a closed cell roller, the little ones that look like hotdogs. Foam brushes are the ticket for spots you can't get the roller into. I'm a fan of Rustoleum. Never had it fail me yet and if a little comes off, so what? All boats will likely need a little touching up now and then. Just my take on it. I painted the entire boat in two afternoons, two colors.

 

[Gashauler]

Good afternoon. So I worked on ye old boat yesterday and made some progress. Also got a little frustrated. So I’m working on the trailer.

I have to order primer for the aluminum and wood on the boat so I’m going to wait to finish working on it.

Used a fiber pad thing I saw recommended on another and a smaller wire wheel for around the top (think it’s called the gunnel?), now I just need to pick up some mineral spirits to wipe it down with after I hose it off and it’ll be ready to go.

Below are three photos. One is the boat. The second is the colors of the boat that I decided I’m also going to paint the trailer. The third is I pulled the cover off of the bearings. Which leads me to my next question. How do I check the bearings and races? Also is the grease supposed to be this color?

 

[Gashauler]

Sinuses messed me up on Sunday so I didn’t get much done. I did get some sanding and a little bit of paint on the trailer. I decided with the trailer I to just knock off as much of the rust and the old paint as possible and rustoleum it. Maybe at a later time I’ll take the same effort I’m going to put in the boat but not right now.

So here’s what I got done. I’m going to put a second coat on it but like I said sinuses got the better of me.

 

[mbullen]

No, not the best color for grease. lol
It appears your recipe included a just-add-water formula.

One can check the bearings and races by removing the whole hub assembly from the spindle. A large castle nut and cotter pin retains the whole thing.
From there, you can clean all the components, visually check for wear and pitting, repack the bearings with fresh grease, and reassemble. I typically leave the old races in the hub if going this route and new seals are a good idea.
I like Lucas tacky red grease but many options are available. Just choose a marine specific product as routinely dunking your rims underwater needs special additives for the occasional water intrusion.

However, a better idea is to replace the bearings no matter what. You can even buy them already packed if desired. Again, I leave the races alone unless you have access to an hydraulic press. (Using a BFH to seat new ones usually creates more problems than you already had.) And again, new seals are available in the new bearing packs.

And yet again, an even easier route, is to just replace the whole dumb assembly with new. The hub, bearings, and seals are available pre-assembled and pre-greased on the shelf in one blister pack. Just choose the lug pattern and spindle size for the seals and throw it on. It's a few dollars more out of pocket, but saves a ton of time, grief, and frustration. I like to throw one of these ready-made blister packs in the truck, too, for an on the road emergency.

If buying new assemblies, it's worth mentioning that choices are available for different ways to add grease through either a bearing-buddy type cap or through grease bungs in the hub itself. These are special options, though, and most on the shelf products don't include the upgrades.
The bearing-buddy style uses the volume in the cap to store extra fresh grease and a spring-loaded disc constantly applies pressure toward the bearings pushing new grease inward. The downside is that the old stuff slowly creeps out the rear seals. These spring-loaded caps are available separately and can be installed on any hub assembly.
The bung-fitting style usually locates the bung on the rear of the hub so that adding new grease from a gun will push the old grease outward through the bearings where it will collect in the cap and need to be removed from time to time.
Neither of the grease-adding options are necessary, though. One can always just open the standard assemblies up occasionally and do the regular maintenance.

 

[Gashauler]

No, not the best color for grease. lol
It appears your recipe included a just-add-water formula.

One can check the bearings and races by removing the whole hub assembly from the spindle. A large castle nut and cotter pin retains the whole thing.
From there, you can clean all the components, visually check for wear and pitting, repack the bearings with fresh grease, and reassemble. I typically leave the old races in the hub if going this route and new seals are a good idea.
I like Lucas tacky red grease but many options are available. Just choose a marine specific product as routinely dunking your rims underwater needs special additives for the occasional water intrusion.

However, a better idea is to replace the bearings no matter what. You can even buy them already packed if desired. Again, I leave the races alone unless you have access to an hydraulic press. (Using a BFH to seat new ones usually creates more problems than you already had.) And again, new seals are available in the new bearing packs.

And yet again, an even easier route, is to just replace the whole dumb assembly with new. The hub, bearings, and seals are available pre-assembled and pre-greased on the shelf in one blister pack. Just choose the lug pattern and spindle size for the seals and throw it on. It's a few dollars more out of pocket, but saves a ton of time, grief, and frustration. I like to throw one of these ready-made blister packs in the truck, too, for an on the road emergency.

If buying new assemblies, it's worth mentioning that choices are available for different ways to add grease through either a bearing-buddy type cap or through grease bungs in the hub itself. These are special options, though, and most on the shelf products don't include the upgrades.
The bearing-buddy style uses the volume in the cap to store extra fresh grease and a spring-loaded disc constantly applies pressure toward the bearings pushing new grease inward. The downside is that the old stuff slowly creeps out the rear seals. These spring-loaded caps are available separately and can be installed on any hub assembly.
The bung-fitting style usually locates the bung on the rear of the hub so that adding new grease from a gun will push the old grease outward through the bearings where it will collect in the cap and need to be removed from time to time.
Neither of the grease-adding options are necessary, though. One can always just open the standard assemblies up occasionally and do the regular maintenance.

Dad repacked them every year except the last year he used it so I figured the grease was shot.

Where do I find the blister packs? And I’m assuming I measure the size of the axle to get the correct hubs at the end where it attaches?

 

[mbullen]

Dad repacked them every year except the last year he used it so I figured the grease was shot.

Where do I find the blister packs? And I’m assuming I measure the size of the axle to get the correct hubs at the end where it attaches?

The diameter of the axle spindle would coordinate with the size of the bearings and seals in the pack.
You'll want to get the same lug number as your rims, too.
They're available everywhere, really. Walmart, Northern Tool, Academy Sports, Tractor Supply, Bass Pro, Cabelas, Amazon, any online marine supply, etc, etc.
Just give any search engine the "boat trailer hub assembly" business and see what comes up. They're in the $30-50 neighborhood.

 

[Gashauler]

The diameter of the axle spindle would coordinate with the size of the bearings and seals in the pack.
You'll want to get the same lug number as your rims, too.
They're available everywhere, really. Walmart, Northern Tool, Academy Sports, Tractor Supply, Bass Pro, Cabelas, Amazon, any online marine supply, etc, etc.
Just give any search engine the "boat trailer hub assembly" business and see what comes up. They're in the $30-50 neighborhood.

Where do I measure the axle to make sure I get the right size? I’m assuming since it’s a small trailer it’s more than likely a 1” but want to make sure.
The rims are shot and I’ll be replacing them so the number of lugs isn’t all that important as I can buy the right size rims.

 

[mbullen]

Where do I measure the axle to make sure I get the right size? I’m assuming since it’s a small trailer it’s more than likely a 1” but want to make sure.
The rims are shot and I’ll be replacing them so the number of lugs isn’t all that important as I can buy the right size rims.

When you remove the old hub, you'll recognize the spindle. It will probably be a 1 incher as you suspect. You can simply measure across the diameter of the threaded end or you can use calipers on any part of the length. The backstop will be obvious, too.
Worth noting, however, some of the vintage stuff had tapered spindles which were thicker in the rear and tapered going outward. These present their own challenges as there is nothing on the shelf to address these. I have one of these myself and was able to use the standard 1 inch kit but replace the rear bearing and seals with measured pieces from NAPA.

 

[Gashauler]

Now I know what I’m doing this weekend. Ordering parts, primer and paint.

I want to take a moment and thank everyone for the help I’ve gotten so far. Makes the job not so overwhelming.

 

[wmk0002]

I think the best thing to do would be just get new hubs. I buy most all of my trailer parts on line at etrailer.com. They have excellent product descriptions, images, product videos, installation video, etc plus the best prices.

What I would do is pull the hub and extract the two bearings and see if you can find the part numbers. The inner and outer bearings will be different. You can cross reference those numbers to the bearings in the hub assembly you buy to make sure it fits.

Don't toss the old hubs though if they aren't shot. I'd also buy at least one new inner seal (they are cheap) and clean and repack one old hub to keep as a spare. Also good to have on hand onto in case you ever go to look at another old project boat and you need hub to put on in order to pull it home.

Overall, bearing/hub work is really easy, just a tad messy. It only gets difficult when you actually try to replace the bearing races. They are easy to put in with a cheap installer kit from Harbor Freight but they are usually a pain to knock out.

 

[LDUBS]

I agree about eTrailer. They are also very responsive to questions -- even my dumb ones.

 

[Outdoorsman]

Reading your post, if that is really a 12 ft boat, your 25 hp motor is probably way to big. Most 12 footers that I have ever saw were in the 7.5 up to 15 hp rated. Was that 25 on that boat before?? Hope your restore project goes well, keep us posted on your progress, just make sure your safe and so is your newly finnished boat !!

I was thinking the same thing... I had a 14 ft. Alumacraft with I believe ( long time ago) had a 20 hp. Evinrude on it, and that went real fast....

 

[farmer4life]

I was thinking the same thing... I had a 14 ft. Alumacraft with I believe ( long time ago) had a 20 hp. Evinrude on it, and that went real fast....

My 14 has a 20HP on it and it goes plenty fast even with 3 guys in it. Rated up to 35HP, I could go bigger if needed but what I have is paid for!

 

[LaqueRatt]

Had a 14 on my AlumaCraft and it ran like a ***** ape. Tried the Fastwin 18 and it was a real handful.

 

[Gashauler]

We had the 25 on it before and it moved pretty good. Never had any problems with planing etc just had to have some sense when turning.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I agree the turns are where you can get in trouble. The 18 on my deeper and heavier V hull Mirro was MUCH more stable. Thing about using sense on the turns is you don't really know how much speed is too much until you go over the side! Which I almost did. Note to self: Order that tethered kill switch kit!

 

[Gashauler]

It’s been a bit but I’ve gotten some stuff done. With hunting season and the colder weather I decided the actual boat will have to wait until the spring. This achieves two things, I have more time to save money to get the good stuff to use on the boat, and I can take my time and do it right.

That being said I’ve decided to finish the trailer first. While I’m not quite done it has seen some improvements. Originally I was just going to do the tires and a couple of rollers and the bunks. Then I changed my mind. While not being in the ballpark of professional I essentially knocked off the flaking paint and rattle canned it. Bought all new rollers and pins and nuts and bolts. Figured if I’m going to put the work into might as well put the money as well. I so here’s what I have finished so far. I would be further along to almost done but holy cow 65 years worth of rust takes a lot of work to get bolts undone.

 

[mirrocraft16]

I've not used it on my boat, but a product called Goo Gone works pretty well removing glue residue.

WD40 works well on decal glue. I removed all the decals on a used van I bought and had a ton of glue leftover that had been on there for 20 years, I soaked a few strips of cloth, then taped them in place and after a few minute soak, I removed the glue with some more WD40 on a rag. It went quick. Since I was painting it anyway, I followed it up with a wash and some rubbing alcohol to remove any trace of the WD40.