grease seal question

[WhiteMoose]

Here is my old seal which was leaking grease (below), and a new one I picked up at the farm&fleet tonight (top). Is it OK that they are two different widths?

 

[KMixson]

It should not matter that they are different widths. Just make sure you install it as square as you can to the shaft.

 

[WhiteMoose]

Thanks KMixson. Got it put back together and seems to be fine.
One more question- I know everything says not to mix types of grease, but I have 2 cans of marine grease that are the same brand, type, and everything, except one is blue and one is tan. Is it OK to mix these? I dont see a single difference in the labels.

 

[KMixson]

The grease should be OK to mix also. If it is the same grade it is OK to mix. You can even mix different brands of the same grade with no problem. It is just like motor oil, you can add a different brand to your engine as long as it is the same grade.

 

[WhiteMoose]

After a 60 mile trip yesterday with the boat, I inspected the rear seals and they are still leaking grease! I know it is the new grease because it is blue.
-The new seals I put in last week seemed to fit tight, so I know they wern't the wrong diameter.
-I have new bearing buddies installed and keep them filled per their instructions (untill you can push in and tilt the blue ring)
-I did the same thing to the other side and it is fine.
What is the cuplrit and how do I fix it? I am getting sick of repacking my bearings every other week.

 

[Troutman3000]

Mine are leaking a little grease too, I didnt know that was the problem.

 

[russ010]

is it leaking out of the front of the wheel or the back of the wheel?

sounds like it might be time for a new hub...

 

[WhiteMoose]

Its leaking out of the rear seal. My suspicion is that there is a ding or something in the axel right where the seal sits, but I wouldn't think that this much grease would be able to leak out. The entire inside of the wheel is splattered with grease.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

How deep are you driving the seal in the hub? If you set it in too deep the seal won't be riding on the correct part of the spindle.
What are the part numbers of the Seals?

 

[russ010]

Its leaking out of the rear seal. My suspicion is that there is a ding or something in the axel right where the seal sits, but I wouldn't think that this much grease would be able to leak out. The entire inside of the wheel is splattered with grease.

if you put a new seal in and it didn't work... I would go ahead and replace the hub. they aren't that expensive. I replaced both of mine for $80 - and that was with the seals and bearings already in it.

 

[Troutman3000]

Its leaking out of the rear seal. My suspicion is that there is a ding or something in the axel right where the seal sits, but I wouldn't think that this much grease would be able to leak out. The entire inside of the wheel is splattered with grease.

if you put a new seal in and it didn't work... I would go ahead and replace the hub. they aren't that expensive. I replaced both of mine for $80 - and that was with the seals and bearings already in it.

Where can you get parts for these? Just pull it off and take it to an auto parts store?

 

[russ010]

This is where I got mine...(https://trailerpartsdepot.com/items.asp?Cc=HUB&Bc= and go to hub assemblies) If you know the size of your bearing, you can pretty much line them up. Most hubs on our trailers are 1", but there are a few 1-1/16"... Match the size of the hub with the bolt pattern already on your trailer and you're all set. You can also look to see what the bearing numbers are (if you can see them when you pull them out) and match up the hub size by those.

 

[WhiteMoose]

How deep are you driving the seal in the hub? If you set it in too deep the seal won't be riding on the correct part of the hub.
What are the part numbers of the Seals?

That could be it. I drove them down as deep as I can get them. I thought that the rear seal had to be in as far as it could go to hold the bearing in place against the race?
There are no numbers that I could see on the seals, I just got them for whatever diameter the old ones were, 1-1/4" I think.

 

[Quackrstackr]

I can't see your picture because of a firewall but different "widths" could be a problem.

You just drive the seal in until it flushes with the hub. That should put your lip seal exactly where it needs to be on the spindle. If it is a different width and it is not seated in the correct position, you could be missing the sealing land on the spindle completely.

If it isn't driven in square, it will leak also.

 

[KMixson]

That could be it. I drove them down as deep as I can get them. I thought that the rear seal had to be in as far as it could go to hold the bearing in place against the race?

I install seals until the edge is flush with the rim of the hub. They should not touch the bearing. You can take some fine sandpaper and polish the spindle where the seal rides also. That may help. I know some types of these bearing buddies put a little too much pressure on old seals and worn spindles to the point where they will not hold the grease in them.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I get the seals lined up with the bore then place apiece of 2x4 over the seal and tap it in flush with the hub.

 

[WhiteMoose]

OK, I'm gonna to try it one more time, this time being sure to keep the seal flush and lightly sand smooth the axel.
At this rate, I should be buying bearing grease by the 55 gallon drum.

 

[Troutman3000]

OK, I'm gonna to try it one more time, this time being sure to keep the seal flush and lightly sand smooth the axel.
At this rate, I should be buying bearing grease by the 55 gallon drum.

How hard was it to change the hubs and seals?

Mine is leaking a little.

 

[WhiteMoose]

I pretty much followed this video. (except for the part where he gets the seal flush with the hub )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsCH1d6R7J0&feature=player_embedded

Its easy, but very messy. Takes maybe an hour per wheel. I've heard that you should repack your bearings w/ grease every year. The only special tool you need is a race driver, and that is only if you have to replace your bearings. Our auto parts store lets you "buy" their race driver hammer (about $75) and return it for a refund when your done using it. If your bearings are still OK, all you have to buy is new seals and grease.

 

[Quackrstackr]

Jack up the axle, pull your bearing buddy or dust cap, pull the cotter pin and remove the castle nut and thrust washer (if so equipped) then pull off the hub. Pull the old seal out and drive in another with the 2x4 method mentioned above.

Be sure to pack your hub full of grease and inspect everything before you put it back together.