gunnel cracks

[gtodd]

I'm the second owner of a 2000 Gregor H42 that I purchased in 2010. Great boat. It came with a 2007 Yamaha 15hp 4-stroke (weighs 114 lbs). Over the last eleven years, I've trailered it approximately 10,000 miles. Via I-5 or Hwy 680 (California), which most of the time are beat up roads. I've just completed one of those trips. I now have some pretty good stress cracks where the gussets on the transom meet the gunnels and cracks where the gussets from transom meet the hull bottom. Has Anyone experienced this type of damage? Not sure if this was caused by the roads, weight or positioning of the motor, or the fact that I've been using a spring-loaded transom saver that I now think might cause the transom to flex too much. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

 

[gtodd]

My tentative plan is to: weld cracks (4043 tig welding rod) and to firm up motor to prevent transom flex by using solid, non-spring transom saver and add a removable brace from motor that clamps over the rear seat.

 

[eeshaw]

Tig or Mig, either will work. Tig would probably make it look nicer. Those are probably from the transom flexing. I bought a boat from a dealer that was about 100 miles from me. There was no transom saver on the boat and by the time I got back to my house with it I had a couple of nice cracks just like the ones you have at the bottom of the knee. You can pull the motor forward on the transom with a ratchet strap or come-a-long or for that matter remove it and then weld it up. I now have a solid transom saver that ties into the trailer, so far so good.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

You might wan to consider adding an extra layer (lap plate) over the repaired crack. The weld will be prone to re-cracking. Extra material thickness would spread the stress out.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Where you can drill a hole at the end of the cracks to stop them from continuing.

 

[DaleH]

Looking at where the cracks are, I bet you do not have enough STERN support from your trailer, & the highway speeds are just tearing the crap out of your hull!

Can you post a picture of the inside of the hull at the stern? Is there a knee? It almost looks like that stern is not supported enough from the inside.

But again, it’s just that your boat doesn’t fit that trailer IMHO, so you need full bunk support under the weight of that stern.

This won’t be a popular comment … but this is why I personally do not like welded boats. Welds are brittle!

 

[maintenanceguy]

Sounds like you can weld. I've already posted this here a couple of times but here's how I reinforced my transom. Just another option.

I added a piece of 2" x 3" steel tube behind the rear bench seat. The tube has flanges welded on the end and is bolted to the hull on each side. That tube is bolted to the transom with two pieces of 3/8" threaded rod. The motor bolts between the rods. The transom is like a rock.

I had a cracked knee brace. No damage yet but I wanted to prevent any.

 

[gtodd]

Thanks for the input. I won't be able to post further reply/pics until tomorrow.

 

[Superlucky]

You may wish to contact Gregor. I have owned a couple of their boats and they specifically tell you that a transom-saver is not to be used. I realize that everyone here has an opinion on these devises, but I would go with what the manufacture says.

Good Luck!

 

[LDUBS]

You may wish to contact Gregor. I have owned a couple of their boats and they specifically tell you that a transom-saver is not to be used. I realize that everyone here has an opinion on these devises, but I would go with what the manufacture says.

Good Luck!

Good point and I agree with following the manufacturer's instructions. However, it is likely the outboard manufacturer says to use a transoms saver.

 

[gtodd]

DaleH: Bunks are about two inches shy of end of stern.

Superlucky: Gregor is not taking phone calls but message says to contact via email which I did on Wednesday the 9th. Hopefully they will get back to me.

maintenanceguy: I like what you did. One idea I had was for a removeable bracket clamped across the rear seat with an eyelet for turnbuckle to motor transom clamp bracket. There is pipe between the two clamps on the motor mount that I could put a bolt through to attach a yoke to connect turnbuckle. I would then use a non-spring loaded transom saver to trailer frame. That would really firm things up.

 

[gtodd]

Another contributing factor could be my trailers suspension set-up. I'm not to sure about the shackle location or size and number of leafs. Someday I would like to get a new trailer. I've been looking at EasyLoaders with torsion suspension.

 

[LDUBS]

I would suggest extending your bunks so they are 1/2" to 1" past the transom. I'm far from an expert, but would think that would have more of an impact than your leaf spring suspension. That assumes of course the trailer's capacity matches the boat's weight.

I have an EZ-Loader trailer with torsion axles. The ride is smooth and I like it a lot. But if I were buying a new trailer I would probably go with a leaf spring axle set-up. My reasoning is, unlike a leaf spring suspension, if repairs are needed, there is nothing I can do other than replace the torsion axle. And, they are more expensive. With a typical leaf spring set-up it is fairly simple to replace parts. And, maybe even easier to see wear as it happens. Additionally, I still have a hard time wrapping my mind around how these torsion axles work, but that is another whole subject. Haha.

Edit: grammar (again)

 

[DaleH]

I would suggest extending your bunks so they are 1/2" to 1" past the transom.

I agree 100%, when the bunk is on the running bottom, but even just inches away from the transom, there will be tremendous flex and stress isolated there ... and something has to give!

On tin boats, I always want the vertical bulkhead of the transom to be fully ON the bunks.

 

[gtodd]

I just looked at my old post and realized I never posted the repair. Welded the cracks and then added gussets as shown in pic. Also fabricated removable brace/bracket from motor to seat and repositioned boat with bunks protruding about an inch past transom. I'll get pics of the brace I made tomorrow.

 

[gogittum]

Several things. 1st, I've always hated crawling around under a dripping wet boat trying to get the transom saver connected to boat and trailer.

2nd - my biggie: most trailers I've seen have springs far too heavy for the load they're carrying. I "think" the average 14 - 16 ft tin boat will weigh around 500# with motor and fuel, etc., ready for the water. I know mine is in that ballpark. The springs on most trailers I've seen seem to be aimed at 2,000# boats (only exaggerating a bit here) and they bounce like crazy on rough roads. Many times I've watched in the rear view and cried a bit. On several trailers I've owned, I've removed a leaf and gotten a much better ride for my boat. Of course, you hafta leave enuf to properly support the whole thing. I've often thought of adding shocks to a boat trailer but haven't tried it. I'm very sure they'd make a big difference.

Get a 200# man to stand in the boat and bounce up and down while you watch the trailer springs. On many or most trailers, there'll be hardly any give at all. You "know" what that's going to do to your transom.

3rd has already been said - the bunk boards MUST extend beyond the transom to give proper support.

4th is what I do now with my 16 ft Starcraft Seafarer with 25 hp Johnson 2 smoke: I measured from rear oarlock on one side, around the back of the tilted motor to the oar lock on the other side - on mine, about <12 feet. Bought a 14 ft, 1,000# rated ratchet strap and hook it up when prepping to tow. Just drop the hooks into the oar locks. Crank the ratchet strap to where it lifts the motor completely off its' stops and all flexing is eliminated. It only takes a minute to connect or dis-connect and it does the job beautifully.

(my biggest fear on that is if I'm in a market or café, someone is going to see that perty blue strap and steal it. )

 

[gtodd]

Pics of transom brace. Anyone know how to post pics without them being sideways? Though they do straighten out when you click on them

 

[gtodd]

gogittum,

I agree with your take on suspension. My trailer came from a previous boat and is homemade. I did rebuild it but kept the same leaf springs. Way to stiff. However I'm in the process of getting a new trailer.

 

[gogittum]

Man, but I hate crawling under a dripping boat to set up the transom saver. A few threads ago, I mentioned my ratchet strap arrangement:

This is my setup. Tilt the motor, run the strap around the back of it, hook each end into an oarlock and crank 'er till the motor is up solid. It works very well....quick and easy. The red arrows show where the hooks are set.