Acquisition on my 1st boat!

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For the bass on the bottom I was using a size 8 (i think) green popper that I tied (you can actually see it in the corner of his mouth if you can expand the pic), and the top Bass, I was using a size 6 (it might have been an 8 too) black WollyBugger that I also tied.

I figured that I would use Oak for the transom, I picked up a 'sheet' yesterday for about $15 at 'La Casa Depote'

Update: The transom will be replaced today (hopefully I can finally get some pics) And I got all the paperwork form the DMV this morning. So I think all I have left before the FUN begins is, filling out the paperwork, get the trailer inspected, and paint the boat when I figure out what to paint it with. But I can always throw the oars in it and take it out anyway :) Then I can finally make it MINE..its not going to get much tho....seats, storage, rod holders, homebrew live well.

UPDATE: Can't get the weather to hold out long enough to do any work. Its ALWAYS nice when I'm at school, but as soon as I leave the lab for the day it starts to rain A LOT
 
ALright, so I had Dave take a few pics for me. There will be plenty more to come. But this is after we replaced the bunks (didn't carpet them yet) the trailer is 1/2 wired (weather didn't hold to finish it) ther are some pics of the transom (or what is left of it) and some miselaneous stuff. If you look at the gunnel just above the numbering, you can see a large flat are where it must have been backed unto something or dropped or hit some rocks at about Mach 2....we pounded mist of it out (very delicately) but you can definately still see where it was. I think its going to stay....too much work and to big of a risk with cracking the thing.
 

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Haven't seen my boat in weeks! Its hitting crunch time for me with my thesis and defence, so I haven't been fishing, working on my boat, or ANYTHING. But I did talk to Dave, the wiring harness formy jeep came so he's finishing up the wiring for the trailer, he raised the lights on the trailer to keep them out of the water when we back the boat in, and he replaced the transom. So there is some progress just not done by me.
 
Probably a good thing to get the lights out the water.
Mine get submerged everytime and there not waterproof.
I just unplug them before backing in...it's been good for 3 years now,never even had to replace a bulb.
 
So I have some updates.......

Dave sent me these pics a couple days ago...

Pic 1, he pained the fenders (they were pretty rusty)
Pic 2, you can see the new wood for the interior part of the transom (shouldn't it go all the way across, or does that no matter?)
Pic 3, you can see the new light mounts, they'll be out of the water, and easily visible from side/rear view mirrors
Pic 4, He put in newbolts to adjust the bunks...I haven't seen i yet so I really don't know what he means, and I can't tell by the pic
 

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Looks good,you may want to put some pipe insulation or maybe some PVC around them guide-ons...or maybe not.
 
Goal posts need to be covered.I'd use pvc pipe.That angled conduit hanger will rust quick and will gouge into the boat if it rubs against it.I would have ran the transom all the way across and down stopping about 3 inches from the bottom.If you're going electric or small outboard,you should be fine.
 
This is what they mean for the goal posts. Mine are used to give me a better idea of where the trailer is in the water - and maybe to lift my lights higher later like yours (as of now you can see them from the back easily).
 

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ben2go said:
Yep,just like that.

Ober51,did you get your idea from here? https://www.widgetsailor.com/owners/greg/guides.html

Absolutely. Those plans are great - I had to buy a piece of thread then bend it in the shape of a u bolt, since I needed two per side, not one like that guy's plans. I also used galvanized door hardware and drilled out hols for the fabbed u bolts. Works well, looks good.
 
ben2go said:
Goal posts need to be covered.I'd use pvc pipe.That angled conduit hanger will rust quick and will gouge into the boat if it rubs against it.I would have ran the transom all the way across and down stopping about 3 inches from the bottom.If you're going electric or small outboard,you should be fine.

Would I be using to PVC as 'bumpers' to keep the boat from hitting the conduit? Or do I need to seal off the top and bottom of it to prevent the conduit from rusting?
We will only be using a small trolling motor so the transom the way it is should be ok, right?
 
JeepDVL45 said:
ben2go said:
Goal posts need to be covered.I'd use pvc pipe.That angled conduit hanger will rust quick and will gouge into the boat if it rubs against it.I would have ran the transom all the way across and down stopping about 3 inches from the bottom.If you're going electric or small outboard,you should be fine.

Would I be using to PVC as 'bumpers' to keep the boat from hitting the conduit? Or do I need to seal off the top and bottom of it to prevent the conduit from rusting?
We will only be using a small trolling motor so the transom the way it is should be ok, right?


I would seal them.Maybe cap the tops.The PVC would act as a bumper to help keep from gouging up the sides of the boat.It will also allow the boat to slide easier going onto the trailer.Trolling motor on the transom should be fine when loading/launching.No different than an outboard.
 
Alright...its been a while.....
So, had a slight change of plans. Originally was just going to paint the boat, but upon clower inspection Dave and I noticed that there were quite a few rivets that were siliconed. We don't want to take any chances with it so...SteelFlex comes in the mail today!!
 

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