How would you patch these holes?

[tonynoriega]

So the previous owner of my tinny got a little carried away with securing the plywood to the transom and drilled about 15 holes in the back.

I could just potentially use them and go the nut and bolt and washer route with a bit of 3M....

But thought it would look pretty crappy with two dozen extra bolts jabbing out all over the place on the plywood and inside the boat...

Was thinking I could just plug them with some JB Weld and with a couple coats of my Rustoleum paint, should be good.

I am concerned about the overall strength it would have. I just seems like it could "pop" out .... even though the PSI on the JB Weld is over 3000... (per the label)...

Any thoughts? Ideas.... confirmations?

 

[edrow]

If it were mine I would weld them. If you don't have the equipment to do that, take it somewhere. It shouldn't be expensive at all & you will never know they were there.

 

[SumDumGuy]

Welding them would be optimal.

You could try brazing them as well.

 

[tonynoriega]

If welding is not an option..

Do you think some closed end blind rivets and some 3M 5200 could do it?

 

[Captain Ahab]

tonynoriega » Sat Feb 22, 2014 6:45 pm[/url]"]If welding is not an option..

Do you think some closed end blind rivets and some 3M 5200 could do it?

They are in the transom and well above the water line? Rivets would be find or just use some 5200 or even JBWeld for a quick cosmetic fix

 

[1957Crestliner12]

The JB Weld idea is right on.

You could even mix the JB Weld with a high or low density filler, microballoons, or even talcum powder to make it easier to sand flush.

A little paint and your done...kind'a like Servpro (or my second marriage)..."Like It Never Really Happened"...


Rod
Oriental, NC

 

[1957Crestliner12]

PS: Be sure to use the "Original" JB Weld...not the quickset 30 minute stuff...it's mickey mouse.

The "Original" JB Weld will be stronger and stiffer than the aluminum that was drilled out.


Rod
Oriental, NC

 

[tonynoriega]

Thanks guys...thats what I was hoping the consensus was going to be...

I have the original JB Weld...

I am going to scuff the insides of the rivet/screw holes with file to give it some bite... apply JB Weld and call it a day...

yes, all of the holes are above the water line... so I feel pretty confident now.

Cheers.

 

[Ranchero50]

Ditto, I'd also consider hitting each hole with a countersink bit and then letting some material bubble on the back so the JB weld makes a 'rivet' that wraps around the hole so it won't pop out from either side.

 

[DrNip]

I would just use some corks.

 

[Winddog]

SumDumGuy » 22 Feb 2014, 15:15[/url]"]Welding them would be optimal.

You could try brazing them as well.

Umm, recent personal experiance says " Don't do it!". I had zero luck with this stuff, wouldn't stick & the "parent" metal I was trying to fix just kept cracking.

Of course I could be doing wrong, but I don't think so.

 

[vahunter]

Measure holes. Get wooden dowel rod that are a loose but close fit or just a size smaller. Cut 1/8"-3/16" short of transom thickness. 30min epoxy (preferably slower setting) in place and cover with masking tape. Use jbweld as filler on transom skins and sand smooth. wrap dowel with masking tape to make a slightly loose fit if its way too small. You don't want to push out all of the epoxy. Its easier than it sounds

 

[lovedr79]

Or put a bolt in with big washers and 5200 all over it.