It's for sale! Just upgraded! $6500 and it's yours!!

[Big_ug_chevy]

What color paint? And what brand? Boat looks good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Duralux duck boat paint.

 

[momule]

Great job overall. I have to wonder though why you chose to build the new transom with wood in it instead of going for all aluminum?

And how would you propose that be done? I'm open to improving any ideas, however I have seen nothing that resembles a solid aluminum transom...

When I changed motors from a 25Merc prop to my current Yammi jet and needed a higher/stronger transom I rebuilt with square aluminum tube sandwiched between sheet. It's not solid aluminum but is far stronger and lighter than the same thickness of plywood and it's tied into the corner braces and knees making the hull and transom one welded unit. The tubing was welded as a partial honeycomb pattern which was labor intensive but worth it for the satisfaction of not using any wood at all.

Nothing wrong with using plywood and good quality wood will last a long time of course. My comment was meant to be a question and not a criticism. Since you did so much nice work with aluminum on the rest of your boat, I thought maybe the wood was used on purpose for a specific reason. Looks like you've done an outstanding job on your build and thanks for sharing.

 

[Big_ug_chevy]

Great job overall. I have to wonder though why you chose to build the new transom with wood in it instead of going for all aluminum?

And how would you propose that be done? I'm open to improving any ideas, however I have seen nothing that resembles a solid aluminum transom...

When I changed motors from a 25Merc prop to my current Yammi jet and needed a higher/stronger transom I rebuilt with square aluminum tube sandwiched between sheet. It's not solid aluminum but is far stronger and lighter than the same thickness of plywood and it's tied into the corner braces and knees making the hull and transom one welded unit. The tubing was welded as a partial honeycomb pattern which was labor intensive but worth it for the satisfaction of not using any wood at all.

Nothing wrong with using plywood and good quality wood will last a long time of course. My comment was meant to be a question and not a criticism. Since you did so much nice work with aluminum on the rest of your boat, I thought maybe the wood was used on purpose for a specific reason. Looks like you've done an outstanding job on your build and thanks for sharing.

q

No problem, I welcome corrective criticism! The reason for wood is I have no welder and to have it fabricated in this town would cost me an arm and a leg. The braces for the transom hold the current 25 Mercury with ease, in fact I looking to upgrade to a 50hp Yamaha and add pods. Pods would be much cheaper to weld than the solid transom.. Good idea you have though.

 

[cmbean2002]

Awesome build! I have a 1448 Alweld, and I am looking to do the same thing. I have 3 questions.

1. How is your steering cable routed? Does it come up under the console from under the floor? Or, does it come in from the side?
2. How much room is between the front of your console and the rear of the front deck? Maybe easier to tell me how long the front deck is and how long the console is.
3. Did you rivet aluminum to the existing deck and bench and add a seat? If so, how sturdy is that?

Again, Awesome Build!

 

[overboard]

EXCELLENT job you did there!! =D>

 

[Big_ug_chevy]

Awesome build! I have a 1448 Alweld, and I am looking to do the same thing. I have 3 questions.

1. How is your steering cable routed? Does it come up under the console from under the floor? Or, does it come in from the side?
2. How much room is between the front of your console and the rear of the front deck? Maybe easier to tell me how long the front deck is and how long the console is.
3. Did you rivet aluminum to the existing deck and bench and add a seat? If so, how sturdy is that?

Again, Awesome Build!

Yes I did rivit to the existing front deck and removed the middle bench. I built the internal frame. The front seat is very sturdy as I added 1/8 plate across the entire front deck. The pictures give you the measurements you were looking for and how I ran the steering cable.
I do plan to rerun the steering cable with the rest in the PVC pipe you see in the pics for a cleaner look and less of a trip hazard. Let me know if I didn't address your questions the way you wanted. I'm always happy to help!

 

[Big_ug_chevy]

EXCELLENT job you did there!! =D>

Thanks you good sir, it was a labor of love to say the least!

 

[cmbean2002]

Thank you for answering my questions and posting the pics. This help tremendously. I will keep checking back to see how you run your steering cable. I was curious how to do that without it being a tripping hazard. Also, I have been wanting to mount seats to my back bench but, I knew it would just pull through what is there from the factory. Adding the 1/8 inch aluminum should do the trick.

Thanks again!

 

[RiverBottomOutdoors]

Keep any eye on those rivets. Break one and it'll slice your toe open.

 

[Big_ug_chevy]

Thank you for answering my questions and posting the pics. This help tremendously. I will keep checking back to see how you run your steering cable. I was curious how to do that without it being a tripping hazard. Also, I have been wanting to mount seats to my back bench but, I knew it would just pull through what is there from the factory. Adding the 1/8 inch aluminum should do the trick.

Thanks again!

The 1/8" plate will do the trick. I'm 280 lbs and there is very little flex. I stand on mine all the time. Just make sure you leave the foam in under the seat for support. If not, you should add 1 1/2" angle cross supports. So the seat frame doesn't sag over time.

 

[Big_ug_chevy]

It's for sale, just up graded! $6500!!