Brine said:
Nice work BB.
I noticed you still managed to pop a few rivets on the all wood build :lol: . I think you're a metal head at heart, but looks like you know your way around a wood shop as well.
Indeed. My dad has always had a very well setup wood shop, and has made everything from fine furniture to houses, and everything in between, so in my younger years, I really picked up on the tricks of woodworking. I was the one that got him interested in metal, in the past couple of years. I try to build everything I can out of metal, whereas he still gravitates towards wood for a lot of things.
I see you eneded up moving the TM mount position. Was this for the hatch opening?
Actually, the owner decided he wanted it pointed further inward, so I was able to put the hatch further forward, which fit the structure design better. Were I to put it further back, I would have to add supplementary support up in the front.
How have you determined the foot pedal location? Seems like it's critical that it be in an exact position to be comfortable using it in combination with the pedestal seat.
Correct. I actually put the pedal up against the back of the bow seat, as I didn't want to start chopping on a brand spanking new boat, and then adjusted the pedal in relation to that. I decided where it should go based on where I usually stand in my boat, which also has the same sunken pedal. One of the mistakes I made in my boat was putting the seat too far from the pedal. I measured where it was on my buddies bass boat, which seemed somewhat comfortable for me, but he doesn't have the sunken pedal. So, when I put it in my hull, I realized that when it is sunk in, it needs to be closer to the seat, as the reason it is so far forward in the Ranger was that your leg is angled up to reach it. It doesn't matter too much in mine, as I found that with the sunken pedal, the bike seat on the pedestal is dang near worthless, as you can stand up straight, and not worry about loosing your balance, or fatiguing one foot. Mine has since been sold.