Lowe V-1457 questions and concerns -- HELP

[stonycreek]

Hello guys and gals. First and foremost I happened upon your little piece of paradise via googling for jon-boat conversions. I must say; this site is pretty informative with a group of great folks that share a common interest and I am hoping that someone may be able to ease my concerns regarding converting a Lowe Sea Nymph V-1457.

After spending a few days searching the forums I am starting to realize that not too many folks on here have done conversions on this make and model of boat. This is what I am concerned about.

Now for the questions.

1.) IS there any particular reason why I cannot find where others have converted this boat model?
2.) IS there any short comings to converting this make and model of boat?
3.) IF I continue the conversion what should I focus the most attention to?
4.) HOW stable will this boat be if I install a casting deck?
5.) IF I install 2 inch angle on the hull would this help the stability?
6.) What are most people applying to the plywood to seal it and what is the life expectancy of the plywood with carpeting?


I think this is enough questions to start with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, here is a picture of the progress.

 

[LeviStevenson]

Welcome! First question I can answer is regarding angle...it will not aid in stability..it will however help track the boat better. That is if you are talking about making the chines more prominent. The other question I can answer is waterproofing wood. Do not use the oily box store water sealer. Use epoxy or fiberglass resin...thinned to a warm maple syrup consistency with acetone. I reccomend the fiberglassing polyester resin....much cheaper..more fumes..and a little more complicated to mix ratio wise....but did I mention cheaper? As far as your boat model and modding goes...not sure. I'm not really a v hull kinda guy..but I have owned and enjoyed them. For my fishing style and preferred locations I prefer a flatbottom. Even on the big windy idaho reservoirs. I can tell you though that you will be happy with that boat if it indeed floats and gets you nearer fish.

 

[jdsgrog]

Welcome to the forum. I'm sure you'll get some great ideas for your rig. BTW, nice rig.

As for your questions:
1) I don't see any particular reason. Personally, I haven't seen too many available where I live.
2) None that I see. It's aluminum, and like any other conversion, you will just need to be creative.
3) Some things to consider: what do you want to do? know the limitations in both your skill and the boat's inherent design; calculate weight; boat structure. I'm sure there's more stuff to think about.
4) I'm assuming it should be stable enough. It may feel a little "tippy" because of the v up front, but once you get your sea legs, you get used to it. But do remember, the higher the deck the higher the center of gravity. I'd try to keep other things like batteries, and fuel tanks as low as possible.
5) Not sure what "stability" you are talking about. If you are asking about stiffness, 1.5 inch is fine.
6) If the plywood is exposed to the sun, a spar urethane would work well enough. Otherwise I'm assuming regular polyurethane will work. Epoxy is best, but it needs to be painted over or covered because UV would be a problem. Also epoxy is expensive. Life expectancy? Depending on the quality of the ply and how hard you use it and store it. Personally, I just expect the plywood to last 3-5 years before I plan to do another redesign or major maintenance project. My plywood deck is three years old and has gotten wet hear and there. Was not sealed, but still strong...no rot (will be using it on my current project). But I don't leave the boat out. The longest it's been outside has been about 5 days in rainy weather docked during a fishing trip. I used 3/4 inch AC plywood exterior glued and carpeted it with an indoor/outdoor carpet from Menards.

 

[LeviStevenson]

Yeah everything jdsgrog said too. :wink:

 

[stonycreek]

Gee thanks guys... I didn't expect the speedy replies with such detailed answers -- thank you.

For what its worth, I plan on converting the boat for use as a fishing boat; primarily small lakes and coves. I plan on using the boat 90% of the time for fishing but would also like to use the boat the remain 10% for waterfowl hunting.

With that being said and through online research I found this great write up:
https://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,345,00.html

I would really like to use the color scheme from the above link. I like a number of the features that are included such as the lower deck light. I'm not to found of putting the side by side seats as I don't feel the Lowe 1457 has enough width to support that option. As far as the camoclad and carpet color, that is what I plan on using.

Now for the floor plan, I plan on using several features of other boats I have found both here on Tin Boat as well as on the net.

I have attached several pictures of floor plans that are similar to what I have in mind.

 

[MrSimon]

Those are good looking plans.

One thing to think about closely is the placement of the chair base on the front deck. It often seems like a good idea to put it in the middle of the deck, but in reality that will make it very crowded up there - especially with a foot pedal on the deck. The chair seems to always be in the way.

Like in the second pic you posted, setting the seat base as far back as possible is the way to go.

 

[stonycreek]

Those are good looking plans.

One thing to think about closely is the placement of the chair base on the front deck. It often seems like a good idea to put it in the middle of the deck, but in reality that will make it very crowded up there - especially with a foot pedal on the deck. The chair seems to always be in the way.

Like in the second pic you posted, setting the seat base as far back as possible is the way to go.

Thank you very much for the insight. I really like the floor plan layout of the second picture. Other than the front deck where it appears to have an angled piece coming of the bow cover -for a lack of a better term. I would like to have the bow cover or front troller mounting deck overhang the casting deck by an inch or two. I do plan on putting a vertical plate between the casting deck and bow cover deck and placing a marine grade am/fm radio and speakers in this area. Also, I would like to mount my fish finder on the casting deck and have it tucked under the upper bow cover.

I got a couple cans of spray paint this morning and painted a few test patches. I really like the Krylon Camo Khaki color but the price per can is around $7.00 at Advanced Auto. Anybody have any ideas where to get a cheaper price? Looks like I will need around 10 cans.

Thanks again for all the help and advise. I will post up pictures as I progress.

 

[LeviStevenson]

Well you have overcome the obstacle that is the hardest in my opinion....the layout. That has been the biggest slow down factor off my builds...I change my mind too much. Instead of krylon you could buy a couple quarts of rustoleum in the colors you need..its cheaper...like seven bucks a quart rather than per can. If you prep correctly it will turn out nice. It can be brushed on with minimal brush lines in the finish. That's what I would do for the base color and then rattle cans with the stencils. This is the cheap way, personally I prefer interlux urethane bottom kote paint....not at all cheap though. Layout number two would be my choice. And as said above the casting deck seat should be as far back as you can for less clutter and more balance...especially on a v hull.

 

[stonycreek]

Well guys, progress is slow but its finally taking shape. I got to work on her for a few hours this evening and I did remember to take some pictures to share.

Any feedback is always welcomed....

Thanks for looking

 

[MrSimon]

Looking good!

How are you attaching the front deck braces to the side of the boat?

What are you planning to use for decking?

I look forward to watching this build.

 

[stonycreek]

Looking good!

How are you attaching the front deck braces to the side of the boat?

What are you planning to use for decking?

I look forward to watching this build.

MrSimon,
I tried utilizing as many of the holes that were already there from the removal of the factory bench seats and riveted 1" aluminum angle for an anchor point. I had to drill two additional holes on each side of the boat. Then I used 1" angle for the webbing from the 2" angle, running in the middle, that are used for the main load of the deck. I am also putting camo clad on the outside of the hull, and with the holes way above water line, I am not worried about drilling through the hull at that location. The 1" angled webbing is more for stiffening the 1/2" plywood that I plan on using to attach to the decking. The plan is to seal the plywood and then cover with carpeting.

I do not know if it is right or wrong to attach the deck framing directly to the hull the way I have, but it seems to be really stiffening up the boat. I plan on utilizing some of the structural integrity of the plywood the help make things even more rigid.

I noticed before I started disassembling the boat that the boat was twisted about three inches to the starboard side. I used ratchet straps and pulled the boat back into alignment and then attached my deck framing. It is still a little out of alignment when I release the tension of the straps but when I attach the plywood it should keep everything nice and true and in line.

I am really enjoying the build thus far and can't wait to get it on the water. The plan for today is to rough in the electrical and start on the back deck. I will continue to post up pictures as I progress.

 

[jdsgrog]

Boat looks like it's coming along nicely. About the twist, the way your boat is constructed, it looks like taking the bench seats out is what caused the twist. Definitely once the front decking goes in, it should help with the twist. When I put my front bench seat back in, it stiffened the boat up considerably. Since your decking will act as the "front bench" as long as you secure it tightly, it will stiffen the boat up. What might also help to straighten the boat up while you are working on the boat is to put the middle and rear bench seats back in temporarily. But I'm also wondering how you will compensate for taking out those two benches completely. I'm pretty sure the floor will help significantly, but I'm not sure if it will prevent the boat from twisting completely, though I may be wrong. I'd like to see what happens when the floor goes in as well.

 

[stonycreek]

Boat looks like it's coming along nicely. About the twist, the way your boat is constructed, it looks like taking the bench seats out is what caused the twist. Definitely once the front decking goes in, it should help with the twist. When I put my front bench seat back in, it stiffened the boat up considerably. Since your decking will act as the "front bench" as long as you secure it tightly, it will stiffen the boat up. What might also help to straighten the boat up while you are working on the boat is to put the middle and rear bench seats back in temporarily. But I'm also wondering how you will compensate for taking out those two benches completely. I'm pretty sure the floor will help significantly, but I'm not sure if it will prevent the boat from twisting completely, though I may be wrong. I'd like to see what happens when the floor goes in as well.

Jdsgrog,
Thank you for taking time to share your thoughts. I must confess that going into the build I thought I had a pretty clear vision of "how" I was going to go about it. However, it has turned into a "make it up as you go along" project.

The twisting issue was noticed before I removed the bench seats. Upon further investgation I noticed a pretty good dent on the starboard side. It appears as if the previous owner may have ran into a dock or other structure, or may have simply dropped the boat. I am pretty sure the twist in the boat is due to this dented area.

When I removed the front bench seat the boat wanted to flex back into its orginal shape. In all honesty, if I had not taken the time in the begining to level the boat and establish reference points, the twist and dent would have certainly gone unnoticed.

I am pretty certain once the decking goes on the twist will be taken care of.

I plan on running rod/gun lockers along the sides; connecting the back casting deck with the front. The lockers "should" make up for the structual support that the middle bench seat provided, at least I am hoping it does. Both the back and front casting decks have been extented closer towards the middle of the boat. In relation to the original bench locations, the casting deck have been extended at least 20" towards the middle.

Whats your thoughts on the rod/gun lockers providing enough support?

Also, the plan is to utilize the foam from the bench seats and place it under the casting decks. I plan on using foam board to put under the middle deck. Any thoughs on this?

 

[jdsgrog]

Yeah, a good dent will do that to a boat. It sounds like it'll be fixed up. I'm sure the rod/gun lockers will add the needed side support. I'm no structural expert, but working on my boat, I do know that putting the side boxes give it a lot of stiffness. I would just recommend attaching it somehow to the hull sides. Also, the way you have your floor supports laid out, the floor will also give it a good amount of support once you put the floor in.

I know how it feels with the "make it up as you go". I've changed my mind at least a dozen times on what I want to do, and I'm sure most people on the forum could relate. I'm on my last stretch on the boat remodel...will probably be done by the end of next week.

It looks like you have the foam covered.

 

[LeviStevenson]

Awesome start! You did the right thing in using aluminum...I always see these great ideas and designs with wood and it pains me to know that they won't last the life of the boat. If you rivit through the hull you can always slather the rivit in epoxy before popping it. Makes it almost impossible to later remove if ever needed but it does an excellent job of waterproofing. I put about three dozen rivits through my flatbottom hull using epoxy and had no leaks whatsoever...I did coat with an epoxy similar to steelflex just for insurance and longevity though. It certainly is a build as you go process but that is half the fun. Between decking and lockers that boat will certainly be plenty stiff. Before my mods my boat would flex and warp with wake and chop....now I have to make sure my mouth is closed because it is so tight it just slams through wake....sorry teeth. Worth it though no more leaks from flexed out rivits. Keep up the good work! I will be following closely to this thread. Normally I don't pay much mind to the vhull threads but this one is starting nicely.