Lund 14' ssv : hydrofoil?

[RaisedByWolves]

Foil - $40 … bullet-proof and they just plane work!

I might opt for the SE Sport 200 on a 16-footer of high horsepower.

Smart Tabs - $100 … non-adjustable while underway.

… and they will KILL you in a following sea state … you do the math …

I have this on my 14’ mirrocraft, very good option.

Never heard of one causing damage.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Seem to be different opinions on the whale tail, hydrafoil, gullwing, slip slider
I recently acquired a 1974 Lund R14, put a 50hp Evinrude on it, that came off a pontoon boat, bought the motor with a whale tail attached. I posted a little about it in the mods/conversion section.
Was told to take it off, that it creates to much stress?

That’s a lot of motor for that boat.

 

[Tall Tiller]

That’s a lot of motor for that boat.

Brute force and ignorance!
Story of my life.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Brute force and ignorance!
Story of my life.

Story of your life is great, just don’t let it be the story of your death.

 

[Tall Tiller]

Don't care what story of my death will be. I will be dead!
Just that it was not a life lived in fear.
Think it might be time for some to get there booster.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I have this on my 14’ mirrocraft, very good option.

Never heard of one causing damage.

Hate to butt in here, but is the "Foil - $40 … bullet-proof and they just plane work!" what you're referring to? Also have a 14' Mirro and man does that nose come up until I get on plane. I'd have to stand up to see past it. At slower speeds I have to weave the boat to see. Not fun. Have thought about moving the battery or tank to the prow, but the way it bounces sometimes might that kill my battery or slosh the fuel around, starving the motor if not full?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Hate to butt in here, but is the "Foil - $40 … bullet-proof and they just plane work!" what you're referring to? Also have a 14' Mirro and man does that nose come up until I get on plane. I'd have to stand up to see past it. At slower speeds I have to weave the boat to see. Not fun. Have thought about moving the battery or tank to the prow, but the way it bounces sometimes might that kill my battery or slosh the fuel around, starving the motor if not full?

Sorry, was referring to the SE Sport 200, it will most likely solve your problem.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Had several 14' boats and ended up with hydrofoils on them all. At this horsepower level it doesn't matter which one you use. I've used both stingray and doel fin with equal results. They do everything it says on the package. Stern lift, ability to plane at lower speeds, eliminate porposing, etc. There has never been a downside for me. Proper weight distribution helps but with 14' and smaller hulls there comes a point where you need that lift especially when added weight in the form of decks and equipment is added.

 

[Duro]

Had several 14' boats and ended up with hydrofoils on them all. At this horsepower level it doesn't matter which one you use. I've used both stingray and doel fin with equal results. They do everything it says on the package. Stern lift, ability to plane at lower speeds, eliminate porposing, etc. There has never been a downside for me. Proper weight distribution helps but with 14' and smaller hulls there comes a point where you need that lift especially when added weight in the form of decks and equipment is added.

Did you notice any change to top speed with hydrofoils?

 

[jethro]

Did you notice any change to top speed with hydrofoils?

I certainly did. My 14' Starcraft with a 25hp Merc had one on the motor when I bought the boat. At one point I decided to take it off and see how it performed. If I had a second person in the boat it would basically no longer get on plane. But with just me, it took some time to get on plane but once it did it would push at least 32mph. With the foil I think I would get 25-27mph max. Two people it would push about 22-24mph but it would jump right up on plane. Also, the stability at speed was VASTLY improved.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Did you notice any change to top speed with hydrofoils?

No, not enough to worry about. The stability, stern lift, no cavitation while turning and ability to cruise on plane at a lower speed all outweighed top speed. I've had 14 footers that wouldn't plane without one

 

[Beachesse]

We have a 1999 16' Carolina Skiff DLX with a Honda 25 HP. Trying to get it on a plane with no luck. Had a 25 HP Suzuki and it planed then. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks!

 

[DaleH]

Did you notice any change to top speed with hydrofoils?

I don't and here's why. First, many years ago I used to recommend the SE Sport 200, which is a full 'flat' hydrofoil wing design (meaning straight across from each other, or tips 180-degrees apart), although recognize that the top profile of the wing is shaped like an airplane wing, i.e., parabolic or curved shape on top, with a flat running bottom. That did co$t one 2-3+ MPH, depending mostly on the OB mounting height, due to any inherent drag from the wing.

I now use and recommend that Attwood 'gull wing' foil design, less maybe not on a really FAST or high powered rig (like Tall Tiller has, but that's his choice). In use, the gull wing model gives you the stern lift to keep the bow down, get on plane faster, and stay on place at a lower RPM/speed. From a safety standpoint, it prevents you from positioning the OB trim pin IN so much so as to cause 'bow steer', which is a dangerous, if not deadly condition. In a turn, the gull wing portion also contacts the water to help stabilize the boat and keep you securely in the turn ... no squirrely boats here! Regular foils have all these benefits too, BTW.

But once on plane, IF the OB is mounted at the correct height (I advise having the vent plate level to the bottom of the hull or higher), the raised 'gull wing' portion of this foil is OUT of the water - hence no drag. On my hull, if I peer over the stern, I can also see the flat portion riding right at the surface of the water exiting from the stern of the hull. That is where you want the ideal OB mounting height. I had to add a 2" board to the trim cap of my ProCraft to raise the OB and then had to bolt the engine to the transom, as the screw clamps were 1/2 on/off the existing transom (don't worry, I have a 3/4" piece secured to the transom that the clamps also bite into).

I run in saltwater and with current and wind, it is really difficult to get an accurate if not repeatable speed running one way or the other or when with the wing on or off, as conditions change with time. But with that said, I doubt I lose anymore than 1 MPH and if it is 2? Well so be it, as for the benefits the gull wing gives me ... I'll gladly take it!

I personally would NOT run a small tin skiff without a foil. I've owned, used and/or have rigged way too many Lund, ProCraft, Starcraft, Smoker Craft, Sea Nymph, Duranautic (my favorite tin hull!) and other brand tin hulls, from 12 to 18', to believe any differently.

But as with life ... your mileage (and opinion) may vary.

 

[alpha550]

I don't and here's why. First, many years ago I used to recommend the SE Sport 200, which is a full 'flat' hydrofoil wing design (meaning straight across from each other, or tips 180-degrees apart), although recognize that the top profile of the wing is shaped like an airplane wing, i.e., parabolic or curved shape on top, with a flat running bottom. That did co$t one 2-3+ MPH, depending mostly on the OB mounting height, due to any inherent drag from the wing.

I now use and recommend that Attwood 'gull wing' foil design, less maybe not on a really FAST or high powered rig (like Tall Tiller has, but that's his choice). In use, the gull wing model gives you the stern lift to keep the bow down, get on plane faster, and stay on place at a lower RPM/speed. From a safety standpoint, it prevents you from positioning the OB trim pin IN so much so as to cause 'bow steer', which is a dangerous, if not deadly condition. In a turn, the gull wing portion also contacts the water to help stabilize the boat and keep you securely in the turn ... no squirrely boats here! Regular foils have all these benefits too, BTW.

But once on plane, IF the OB is mounted at the correct height (I advise having the vent plate level to the bottom of the hull or higher), the raised 'gull wing' portion of this foil is OUT of the water - hence no drag. On my hull, if I peer over the stern, I can also see the flat portion riding right at the surface of the water exiting from the stern of the hull. That is where you want the ideal OB mounting height. I had to add a 2" board to the trim cap of my ProCraft to raise the OB and then had to bolt the engine to the transom, as the screw clamps were 1/2 on/off the existing transom (don't worry, I have a 3/4" piece secured to the transom that the clamps also bite into).

I run in saltwater and with current and wind, it is really difficult to get an accurate if not repeatable speed running one way or the other or when with the wing on or off, as conditions change with time. But with that said, I doubt I lose anymore than 1 MPH and if it is 2? Well so be it, as for the benefits the gull wing gives me ... I'll gladly take it!

I personally would NOT run a small tin skiff without a foil. I've owned, used and/or have rigged way too many Lund, ProCraft, Starcraft, Smoker Craft, Sea Nymph, Duranautic (my favorite tin hull!) and other brand tin hulls, from 12 to 18', to believe any differently.

But as with life ... your mileage (and opinion) may vary.

I loved my 14' Duranautic, I wish I never sold it!