minimum hp?

[craveman85]

I'mlooking for an outboard for my 61 18' alumacraft queen merrie. Its a relatively light boat. Listed at 650 lbs without a motor. Its rated for a max hp rating of 90 however two years later they added some more foam and rated it for 115hp ( I emailed alumacraft and they said it was only added foam. ). Well anyways I'll never really need 90 HP. Actually it will probably spend most of its time at 1-3 mph with a kicker. How small a motor could I run and still hop up on plane relatively easy with about 500lbs (my 300 then the woman and the dog) and maybe 50lbs of gear and probably 10 gallons of fuel.

 

[earl60446]

I would go for a 40 minimum.
Tim

 

[Captain Ahab]

Depending on hull style and weight placement you might be able to get away with even a 25 hp.

I think something in the 40 range would suit your needs

 

[Pappy]

That boat is a very popular boat with the antique crowd. A period correct 35hp would be a fantastic choice for your needs. They were very good looking engines in the '63 - '64 range. Super simple, rugged, and pretty much bulletproof.

 

[craveman85]

As for hull shape it's pretty much a large modified v like most small fishing boats. Is really like it if I could get by with a 35-40 because someday I want to go with twin 35-40's

 

[Lowe 2070 CC]

I'd be willing to bet a single 60 would perform or out perform twin 40's, and burn less fuel in the process.

 

[craveman85]

Yeah i know it would but twins just look cool on these boats. I saw one last year that had twin 40's and it was beautiful.

 

[Lowe 2070 CC]

As long as you're doing it for the Cool Factor then rock on! I think it would look awesome. Just didn't want you disappointed by the performance.

 

[Pappy]

Craveman85 - go to www.aomci.org and to the ask a member section and start looking around in there. If you like what you see then join up. There is a very active "boats" section there and lots of help on how to do things along the way. Don't be afraid of the older engines at all. They are simple to work on and will suit your needs perfectly.
I think doing twins on that boat would be awesome. Post pics of the "before", or what state it is in now so we can see.

 

[craveman85]

 

[craveman85]

I got her last summer but haven't had an opportunity to start yet. They originally wanted 1100 for it and eventually I got it for 440 because they were just trying to get rid of it at that point. Her name is miss jenny but pronounced jen-ay like forest gump.

 

[craveman85]

I got some foam from a local factory. Its not Styrofoam but a foam rubber. Its highly resistant to gas and oil. It also barely seems to absorb any water unlike Styrofoam and that pour in poly junk. I actually took a 2x2" block of it and put it in a canning jar filled with 2 stroke gas for a few weeks and its still buoyant and not dissolved at all. On top of this will be a cedar floor finished with teak oil and there will be 2 wise back to back lounge seats.

 

[waterman]

That thang is cool!!!

 

[Boat2fast]

Beautiful boat. I would have a 115 Etec on the back in no time. Twin 40s will complicated things. Either way...the cool factor is extreme. Nice find.

 

[Pappy]

Looking good! That boat looks to be very straight! Looks like it had an electric shift engine on the back for its last hurrah judging by the control box.
I just went through a restoration on an Alumacraft Model R. Turned out very nice with the work being fairly uncomplicated. When starting with a boat as nice as yours it will be super to see the results.
Looks like you will meet Mr. phosphoric acid very shortly and go from there!

 

[craveman85]

Phosphoric acid?

 

[Pappy]

Knew that would get your attention.
That is used to brighten the aluminum while removing almost all oxidation. Will not harm paint.
Mix it with water and apply by pressurized sprayer. Start from the bottom up, never the top down or you will have streaking. Rinse with water.
Available through hardware stores or at aluminum supply places.
For a near factory finish I use plain old Brillo (or SOS) pads (the ones loaded with soap) and a water hose. You can feel the finish go from rough to smooth while scrubbing with them and the finish is very nice.
The transom wood inside was originally white oak and was 1 1/16 or 1 1/8" thick. Use a cork backing between the wood and the transom to isolate the engine vibration and as a sealer. I used 1" wood on mine. Cork backing comes in rolls and is used as a gasket maker. Available through auto parts stores or online.
Aluminum truss head screws (#10) were used throughout to hold the transom. Those are no longer available so order a box of 50 stainless through your local hardware store.
If you need a new factory style drain plug and thru-hull those are available as well along with the correct chain.
If you need rivets and you probably will. Find a guy who does aircraft work out at a local airport to come and install them. They will be as close to correct as possible and cheap to have installed. Polish the anodizing off the heads prior to install or go back over with the brillo pads after.
Non-skid for the inside is available through Petit or Interlux. Both are very good and easy to apply using 2" foam rollers.

 

[craveman85]

No need for rivets... She doesn't leak. I don't know how but she's bone dry. I let her sit for 3 days in a friends pond last week and no water!

 

[turbotodd]

I wouldn't go any less than 75 HP, and would consider that the minimum. Reason being that the first time you have it loaded up and try to plane it off with a 35 or 40 hp motor, you'll kick yourself for not putting more motor on it. Been there, done that.