MINN-KOTA set-up

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TNAMBUSHER

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The Patron state of shootin stuff!
Gentlemen,

I have been hanging around the site for awhile and decided to join since I became a "TinBoat" owner this weekend. Bought a bone stock G3 1652 with a 2010 Nissan 15hp 4 stroke attached. Boat is an 08 and engine has less than 40 hrs on it. I just bought a Minn-Kota Endura 40 tiller for it and, after reading the instructions, I have a question. It says that I need to install a 60amp manual reset circuit breaker to run this engine off of. I checked online and the thing is $40 to $70 depending on where and the brand. My question is, why do I need this CB to run the engine? I am not intending to mod this boat other than the TM and a HumminBird DI unit. I am going to use 1 battery for the TM and a LM battery to run GPS and DI. Any help on this would be much appreciated!
 
Incase a short occurs. It will run without one but highly recommended to have a breaker installed you'll also lose your warranty. I'm not really recommending this particular breaker because its not the best quality but Walmart carries a MinnKota 50amp? breaker that's around $20 I think. It will do but I personally don't trust them much. But I guess it's better than nothing.
 
$70 is way too much. Napa sells 50 amp breakers for $15, and they do work. The technology is not rocket science. Get one, its to prevent your wire from burning and causing a fire. A properly placed breaker is not there to protect the motor, its to prevent a fire and injury. This is espcially true if you use a longer run of wire. Think of it this way, the TM usually comes with a short cable with clamps for direct battery connection. They have matched the wire guage to the length they provide so it wont overheat. Used that way, as provided by the manufacturer, you wont void the warranty without a breaker, but cut the cables and make it longer, you need the breaker. The other wayto get around the breaker is to calculate the gauge of wire for the run based on your max amp draw. This leads to a much much larger wire than you would need if you used the breaker.
 
TheMaestro said:
$70 is way too much. Napa sells 50 amp breakers for $15, and they do work. The technology is not rocket science. Get one, its to prevent your wire from burning and causing a fire. A properly placed breaker is not there to protect the motor, its to prevent a fire and injury. This is espcially true if you use a longer run of wire. Think of it this way, the TM usually comes with a short cable with clamps for direct battery connection. They have matched the wire guage to the length they provide so it wont overheat. Used that way, as provided by the manufacturer, you wont void the warranty without a breaker, but cut the cables and make it longer, you need the breaker. The other wayto get around the breaker is to calculate the gauge of wire for the run based on your max amp draw. This leads to a much much larger wire than you would need if you used the breaker.
Great answer thanks for clearing it up for me too!
 
Though others will say I am wrong, I happen to prefer an in line fuse of the proper amperage for the devices I need to protect. And, you should always have protection on any device. Watch a battery explode one time and you will understand.
 
Thanks for the splainin. The reason that I was confused was that I didn't see the need for a breaker when running with the stock leads to the battery. I knew that if I were going to run wire all over the boat , it would require a breaker or fuse box. Most of my fishing will be transom mount with the battery there.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=317411#p317411 said:
TNAMBUSHER » Today, 21:11[/url]"]Thanks for the splainin. The reason that I was confused was that I didn't see the need for a breaker when running with the stock leads to the battery. I knew that if I were going to run wire all over the boat , it would require a breaker or fuse box. Most of my fishing will be transom mount with the battery there.

You should be fine that way. The stock leads will handle the motor draw well.
 
I never used any protection(fuse /breaker) for years,never a problem....anyways
The last 5 years or so,I used a cheap <$10 auto reset breaker.
breaker.jpg
Worked fine till this year,my TM would cut out,then come back on if I was going full speed for awhile.Figured the breaker was getting weak so I decided to look for one in town.
Small town,not much around so I decided to buy a 60amp fuse.(TM calls for that size anyways)
I put it inline the other day,worked fine(why wouldn't it).
Only problem if it does blow,you will need another fuse or have to wire it direct.

Fuse was around $5.

EDIT:anytime theres "marine" in front of the name prices get inflated.
Went on ebay to see if I could find what I had before but couldn't....did find this though...
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12V-DC-CAR-AUDIO-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-FUSE-60AMP-60-AMP-60A-/110974052423?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d691a847&vxp=mtr
think I'll give it a try.
 
You can purchase a $60 minnkota battery box with built in 60 amp breaker. I visited a minn kota repair shop the other day and he sees a lot of blown motors due to no protection. Majority are fishing lines or weeds caught in prop and people figure they can speed up and blow a motor instead.
 
breaker is just more convenient, if its resettable. Just like in your home. Plus, less temptation to use a wrong rated fuse as a quick fix
(remember people used to use copper pennies as a quick fix for blown home fuses because they actually fit perfectly into the fuse holders... then they would forget about them, and presto! home wiring fire!)
 
An in line 50 or 60 amp fuse holder is about 3" long and can be added to any wire run simply by cutting out a small section of the positive wire. Wire cutter, stripper and allen wrench is all the tools needed. 5 fuses and the holder less than $8 delivered on Ebay.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=318882#p318882 said:
krawler » Today, 14:43[/url]"]This is all you need

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-50-Amp-Circuit-Breaker/16401755
Yep. I had an overheating issue and a melted TM plug. breaker tripped bit never reset itself. It took 8 years for it to go bad so I think I got my moneys worth out of it. They also sell a rubber cover for the breaker if it's not supplied with it.
 
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