gnappi
Well-known member
I have used mine on the water for about 10 hours so far and I really like the concept quite a bit. For some of you who may be considering one, here are my thoughts:
Size and construction.
It fits my group 27 AGM perfectly
It's construction isn't robust enough to hold the battery and carry it about. Even with the strap attached it isn't very suitable to move a lot. I would have gladly suffered a few more pounds of weight and seen the top screwed to the bottom because trusting the nylon strap and carrying handle takes a leap of faith greater than I can muster. So for carrying purposes I'd consider it no better than a bare battery.
Also I would have liked to see some molded in strap restraining guides into it rather than the little plastic screw in guides supplied with it.
Features
Internal 60 A breaker
Perfect for 55/55 thrust motors, but over rated for motors under 50 lbs (like 30's) of thrust, dunno... 10 Amps extra needed to trip the breaker could melt some cables. But a short is a short and 60 is better than nothing if you have a smaller motor.
As it is, its breaker is internal and it is a plus not to have to think about getting an external one or where to hook it up.
External cable connecting lugs
Very easily reached on a forward angled edge, excellent to have if removing the battery. They are also long enough to connect other wires with spade lugs for other DC powered equipment.
I think these were made to easily accommodate the boater with more than just a TM. All kinds of external power connections are easily made.
"State of Charge" (LED BASED) "Meter"
Mine reads "RECHARGE" when my battery hits 12.2 volts. Industry wide they seem to agree that 12.2 is still 60% full, and "recharge" is recommended (at 12.06 or 50% for best battery life). I installed a digital panel volt meter, it and the depth sounder voltage indicator both agree that the state of charge on the battery box may be too conservative. I say it's OK for a quick look, but a volt meter is best. Still it's better than nothing if your boat is electric powered only.
Two 12 volt Cigarette lighter appliance couplings
VERY cool to have. Those little $3.50 Cig lighter to USB adapters will keep other devices charged. If you use it as your main motor power center, they can also be used to power lights, live well, depth sounders, and trickle chargers etc. but I'd recommend quick disconnects similar (in a lighter gauge than 10) to the Minn Kota TM QD's for these things. These are also protected with a 15A CB, cool stuff.
It is actually pretty well thought out, but its worst feature is the rather flimsy construction if you need to carry the battery about. A few minor changes in design this could be a GREAT design, but as it is for the cost ($65-$75) it's Waaay better than a bare battery or even a bare bones battery box.
Size and construction.
It fits my group 27 AGM perfectly
It's construction isn't robust enough to hold the battery and carry it about. Even with the strap attached it isn't very suitable to move a lot. I would have gladly suffered a few more pounds of weight and seen the top screwed to the bottom because trusting the nylon strap and carrying handle takes a leap of faith greater than I can muster. So for carrying purposes I'd consider it no better than a bare battery.
Also I would have liked to see some molded in strap restraining guides into it rather than the little plastic screw in guides supplied with it.
Features
Internal 60 A breaker
Perfect for 55/55 thrust motors, but over rated for motors under 50 lbs (like 30's) of thrust, dunno... 10 Amps extra needed to trip the breaker could melt some cables. But a short is a short and 60 is better than nothing if you have a smaller motor.
As it is, its breaker is internal and it is a plus not to have to think about getting an external one or where to hook it up.
External cable connecting lugs
Very easily reached on a forward angled edge, excellent to have if removing the battery. They are also long enough to connect other wires with spade lugs for other DC powered equipment.
I think these were made to easily accommodate the boater with more than just a TM. All kinds of external power connections are easily made.
"State of Charge" (LED BASED) "Meter"
Mine reads "RECHARGE" when my battery hits 12.2 volts. Industry wide they seem to agree that 12.2 is still 60% full, and "recharge" is recommended (at 12.06 or 50% for best battery life). I installed a digital panel volt meter, it and the depth sounder voltage indicator both agree that the state of charge on the battery box may be too conservative. I say it's OK for a quick look, but a volt meter is best. Still it's better than nothing if your boat is electric powered only.
Two 12 volt Cigarette lighter appliance couplings
VERY cool to have. Those little $3.50 Cig lighter to USB adapters will keep other devices charged. If you use it as your main motor power center, they can also be used to power lights, live well, depth sounders, and trickle chargers etc. but I'd recommend quick disconnects similar (in a lighter gauge than 10) to the Minn Kota TM QD's for these things. These are also protected with a 15A CB, cool stuff.
It is actually pretty well thought out, but its worst feature is the rather flimsy construction if you need to carry the battery about. A few minor changes in design this could be a GREAT design, but as it is for the cost ($65-$75) it's Waaay better than a bare battery or even a bare bones battery box.
