MirroCraft 4604 14ft Modification ideas

[FormerParatrooper]

I have been thinking out my plan for my 14ft MirroCraft and after a few times on the water I think I know what I need and want.

This is my idea for framing it out and placing foam. I plan to remove the bow bench and replace with aluminum stock I have so I can better frame out for the battery.



Question, do I leave the foam loose or do I use any certain adhesive to secure it to the hull?

This is my representation of the deck and floor.

Is it a good or bad idea to make the bow deck level with the gunwales? Or should it be lower? It is not meant to be used as a place to stand or sit.

I plan on getting a electric start 25 hp 2 stroke OMC, so I am planning on adding 1 inch aluminum flex conduit under the floor from the battery box and exiting on the Port Side Stern. Is that the proper side? Or does it need to feed from the Starboard?

Is there a good way to seal the edges of the floor and deck to keep water from infiltrating?

At the stern, the drain is going to be lower than the floor so I am planning to modify the floor to slope to it. That will expose the foam, and it is also where the fuel tank will sit. What can I treat the foam with to keep it from being compromised by fuel spillage?

For the bow area to access the battery I figure on making a hatch that is secured by machine screws, I will tap the aluminum frame to accept the screws, same for the anchor storage.


Another thing I wondering about, I am getting older and the aluminum benches are getting harder lol. Anyone used any cushion on them that does well?

I plan on using plywood for the deck and floors, is 11/16 thick enough?


Any suggestions or changes I should make for safety?

 

[overboard]

Only one idea for you, get a seat with a backrest to sit on. I had a 14' MirroCraft for years which had the cheap plastic seat mounted with a clamp on mount, thought I was in heaven after fishing and running the boat just off the bench. One thing though if you go that route, MAKE SURE to secure the clamp on seat with some type of bracket that holds it in place and won't allow it to tip.

 

[Al U Minium]

I would sell it and buy a boat ready to go. That is way too much work to do to a boat that already floats. Its handling characteristics will be so changed you probably will want to sink it for the insurance money.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Question, do I leave the foam loose or do I use any certain adhesive to secure it to the hull?

As long as the foam it trapped under the floor there's no need to attach it to the hull.

Is there a good way to seal the edges of the floor and deck to keep water from infiltrating?
Do you mean to seal the wood or to seal the gap between the floor and hull?

At the stern, the drain is going to be lower than the floor so I am planning to modify the floor to slope to it. That will expose the foam, and it is also where the fuel tank will sit. What can I treat the foam with to keep it from being compromised by fuel spillage?

I wouldn't worry about sloping the floor, Boats hardly ever float level.

For the bow area to access the battery I figure on making a hatch that is secured by machine screws, I will tap the aluminum frame to accept the screws, same for the anchor storage.
I recommend Rivnuts.

I plan on using plywood for the deck and floors, is 11/16 thick enough?
1/2" plywood is use most often.

Any suggestions or changes I should make for safety?[/quote]

 

[water bouy]

I planned on a wood floor and changed to aluminum as I imagined it filling up with water if it has to be stored outside or when I get caught in a storm. But I was lucky finding the right kind of planks. Under the planks I'm putting two pieces of 1" electrical pvc from front to back on each side with a tee in the middle of both and clamped to the stringers. It's probably much cheaper than al pipe and less likely to fray wires.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

Only one idea for you, get a seat with a backrest to sit on. I had a 14' MirroCraft for years which had the cheap plastic seat mounted with a clamp on mount, thought I was in heaven after fishing and running the boat just off the bench. One thing though if you go that route, MAKE SURE to secure the clamp on seat with some type of bracket that holds it in place and won't allow it to tip.

When I bought the boat it had two of those Bass Pro Seats. I will put one back in with modification. Took them out because they slid off the rails and wasn't sure what I was going to be doing. I have plenty of aluminum pieces that I could use to make a bracket.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

I would sell it and buy a boat ready to go. That is way too much work to do to a boat that already floats. Its handling characteristics will be so changed you probably will want to sink it for the insurance money.

Just trying to make it mine. It was cheap enough and I have plenty of material to do the work.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

Question, do I leave the foam loose or do I use any certain adhesive to secure it to the hull?

As long as the foam it trapped under the floor there's no need to attach it to the hull.

Is there a good way to seal the edges of the floor and deck to keep water from infiltrating?
Do you mean to seal the wood or to seal the gap between the floor and hull?

At the stern, the drain is going to be lower than the floor so I am planning to modify the floor to slope to it. That will expose the foam, and it is also where the fuel tank will sit. What can I treat the foam with to keep it from being compromised by fuel spillage?

I wouldn't worry about sloping the floor, Boats hardly ever float level.

For the bow area to access the battery I figure on making a hatch that is secured by machine screws, I will tap the aluminum frame to accept the screws, same for the anchor storage.
I recommend Rivnuts.

I plan on using plywood for the deck and floors, is 11/16 thick enough?
1/2" plywood is use most often.

Any suggestions or changes I should make for safety?

[/quote]

I am looking at sealing the gap. The wood will be sealed per the recipe for old timers here on forum.

The idea of the floor slope is my drain hole will be at the new floor level. Just want to make sure water can go where it needs to get out.

Rivnuts, great idea. I have some in the shed and ashamed I did not think of them, Thanks.


So 1/2 inch is better choice? Was thinking about the weight.

Thanks for the info.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

I planned on a wood floor and changed to aluminum as I imagined it filling up with water if it has to be stored outside or when I get caught in a storm. But I was lucky finding the right kind of planks. Under the planks I'm putting two pieces of 1" electrical pvc from front to back on each side with a tee in the middle of both and clamped to the stringers. It's probably much cheaper than al pipe and less likely to fray wires.

I looked for the planks locally, haven't found any reasonably priced compared to the wood and foam. I have about 20' of aluminum flex leftover from some other work around the house and figured if I secured it properly it wouldn't run the wire insulation.