Hello everyone, I have a question about modify the transome to allow a short shaft. I have a Meyers 16, and was just given a evinrude 25, older engine but in great condition. My problem is it's a short shaft and my boat calls for a long shaft. Aside from ditching this engine do I have other options?
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Modifying transome? ?
- Thread starter meyers16
- Start date
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welcome aboard !!
you have loads of options . . . .
skil-saw
sawzall
jig saw
I often provide responses as if the issue were approached in MY world.
if it were MY boat, I would not go to the trouble of removing the wood portion
of the transom if it has a lot of caulk, bolts, etc etc.
Just mark the section to be removed and put a skil-saw to it.
I have NO problem with cutting thin aluminum sheet and plywood with my hand power tools.
BUT !!! This is a ONE TIME DEAL !! Ponder it in your mind if this what you want to do.
measure about a dozen times, mark with a black marker..... and cut it.
If you are not that experienced with a project like this, remove all the caulk and bolts.
Remove the wood transom - if it is in bad shape, now would be the time to make a new one.
Cut out the section that will make your motor work with your boat.
After you cut the transom, put it back in place. . . mark the metal hull.
cut the metal skin where you can FOLD IT OVER the fresh cut wood . . .
this will be easier done if it is bolted back into place as if it were to be permanent.
Take your time, MEASURE, MEASURE and MEASURE some more.
in the future if you get a long shaft motor again, just add a Jack Plate. That is simple also.
Enjoy !!
you have loads of options . . . .
skil-saw
sawzall
jig saw
I often provide responses as if the issue were approached in MY world.
if it were MY boat, I would not go to the trouble of removing the wood portion
of the transom if it has a lot of caulk, bolts, etc etc.
Just mark the section to be removed and put a skil-saw to it.
I have NO problem with cutting thin aluminum sheet and plywood with my hand power tools.
BUT !!! This is a ONE TIME DEAL !! Ponder it in your mind if this what you want to do.
measure about a dozen times, mark with a black marker..... and cut it.
If you are not that experienced with a project like this, remove all the caulk and bolts.
Remove the wood transom - if it is in bad shape, now would be the time to make a new one.
Cut out the section that will make your motor work with your boat.
After you cut the transom, put it back in place. . . mark the metal hull.
cut the metal skin where you can FOLD IT OVER the fresh cut wood . . .
this will be easier done if it is bolted back into place as if it were to be permanent.
Take your time, MEASURE, MEASURE and MEASURE some more.
in the future if you get a long shaft motor again, just add a Jack Plate. That is simple also.
Enjoy !!
without seeing the boat in person, a Jack Plate may (or may not)
put undue stress in areas of the transom that may not be designed to carry such stress.
Then, metal fatigue may come into play. And, if that happens, can only lead to bad things.
My statement is addressed to what "I" would do - in "my" world.
Personally, I am not a fan of bolting a projecting jack plate to a transom to lower
a motor to the proper height. Raising it, yes - but not to lower it.
I just like to fabricate, destruct and rebuild things. The more challenging, the more interesting.
A 25hp Evinrude for the 16' boat is a good match, IMO, and worth keeping.
Without photos of the boat and how it is set up, we, the gallery, really don't have a clue
as to what his transom can and can not safely hold in its present condition.
WAIT !!! is this a remote or tiller steer ???
Jus my Dos Centavos
put undue stress in areas of the transom that may not be designed to carry such stress.
Then, metal fatigue may come into play. And, if that happens, can only lead to bad things.
My statement is addressed to what "I" would do - in "my" world.
Personally, I am not a fan of bolting a projecting jack plate to a transom to lower
a motor to the proper height. Raising it, yes - but not to lower it.
I just like to fabricate, destruct and rebuild things. The more challenging, the more interesting.
A 25hp Evinrude for the 16' boat is a good match, IMO, and worth keeping.
Without photos of the boat and how it is set up, we, the gallery, really don't have a clue
as to what his transom can and can not safely hold in its present condition.
WAIT !!! is this a remote or tiller steer ???
Jus my Dos Centavos
You need to lower the motor about 5" if it's a short shaft on a 20" transom. If you don't notch the transom and go with a lowered jack plate will the tiller clear the transom? It wouldn't on my setup.
earl60446
Well-known member
I value a 20 inch transom. I would trade or sell the motor, maybe get something bigger. I got a 48 hp on my 16 ft and it is rated for 60hp. Of course all boats are different. Would never buy another boat with a 16 inch transom.
Tim
Tim
earl60446 said:
Even though I suggested a way to cut the transom down to fit the short shaft motor,
I will support Tim's statement of a 15" transom not being the safest way to go if you
do not have a splash well to prevent swamping from waves hitting your stern for boats over 14'.
My 1436 V hull has a 15" transom and 25hp motor and so far, I have never experienced
a bad situation. But, I know it happens !!! The more free board a boat has all the way around
the better (and safer). The short transom will be your weakest link to invite quick flooding.
and the reason I mention swamping is easier for boats over 14' is they are heavier, the motor
and batteries add more weight. A big gas tank adds weight. So, IMO, the boat does not
heave up and down like a smaller, lighter boat would. Thus, inviting water to come over the transom.
your call.
.
VinTin
Well-known member
My vote is for getting the correct shaft length motor.
Once the hull in molested it is very difficult to repair.
Respect your Meyer!
Once the hull in molested it is very difficult to repair.
Respect your Meyer!
Thanks everyone for your input, just to be clear my boat does have a splash well, which will stay for sure. While I'm contiplating what to do, what it the proper depth for the anti cavitation plate? Is it 1" from the bottom of the boat? I really appreciate all of you help!
SumDumGuy
Well-known member
meyers16 said:
To give you an idea....
When you are on plane the anti-vent plate should skim across the surface of the water.
if you have a splash well, can you even consider cutting the transom down without removing the splash well? Two things come to mind:
1) After you cut down the splash well, will there be enough room to clamp the motor in place? they need to hang about 3-4 inches down from the top of the transom.
2) Even if you cut down the transom, the tiller handle will still potentially interfere with the splash well too.
I'd look for some long shaft parts or look to sell and buy a similar motor with a long shaft on it.
Good luck!
1) After you cut down the splash well, will there be enough room to clamp the motor in place? they need to hang about 3-4 inches down from the top of the transom.
2) Even if you cut down the transom, the tiller handle will still potentially interfere with the splash well too.
I'd look for some long shaft parts or look to sell and buy a similar motor with a long shaft on it.
Good luck!
