My 12' flatbottom is gonna get "Phished"

[russ010]

What did you use to cut the bench? Would a dremel tool work?

I cut mine out with a jig saw... I also used a circular saw for the long runs

You can use a dremel... but dang, that's going to take a lot of time and probably more than one bit

 

[Troutman3000]

What did you use to cut the bench? Would a dremel tool work?

I cut mine out with a jig saw... I also used a circular saw for the long runs

You can use a dremel... but dang, that's going to take a lot of time and probably more than one bit

What kind opf blade did you use????

 

[SrPhatness]

What did you use to cut the bench? Would a dremel tool work?

I cut mine out with a jig saw... I also used a circular saw for the long runs

You can use a dremel... but dang, that's going to take a lot of time and probably more than one bit

What kind opf blade did you use????

I work in a wood shop, so I was lucky enough to use their large table saws for the square cutting (back deck). However, for the slight angel in the front deck I used my 18V battery powered circular hand saw. Which works like a charm if you can cut a STRAIGHT line. Especially when you cross cut (parallel with the short edge of the 4x8 "against the grain") It will still cut, but if you bind the blade you will get a lot of chips in the top layer (the part you see) of the board, making it look ugly. If you're going to carpet, it doesn't really matter because you're going to cover it up. If you have some pre-finished wood, like I do, you will want to avoid getting these blow out chips. They make special blades for cross cutting (against the grain). But any SHARP blade and a straight cut will do the trick.

As far as a dremmel goes. At work we use 2hp routers, which are like a very large dremmel tool x20. And it is still a pain to cut through 3/4 board. And even then you get a ton of blow out (the chips I was talking about) unless you back cut (with the rotation of the router head) and then finish cut (against the rotation of the router head). And using a router is still a pain. So no, don't burn up you poor little dremmel trying to cut trough any serious board. maybe quarter inch at the most for a dremmel.

Try to use a table or circular saw for the straight cuts, and a jig saw for any funny angles.

Rock on and rock solid.

 

[Troutman3000]

Thanks Man. I bought a jig saw today to do what I need.

 

[SrPhatness]

Thanks Man. I bought a jig saw today to do what I need.

A jigsaw will get it done. However they are notorious for blowing out and ripping up the grain in a cross cut. What I do is lay down some masking tape before I cut, then cut through the masking tape. a little trick to minimize blow out.

Good luck :wink:

 

[Froggy]

I like the tape idea, how about a sawzall, could work too I guess, this is the exact same boat I have for sale, looking forward to seing your progress.

 

[Kurt Loup]

Bosch jigsaw blades make fairly clean cuts. They are worth the minimal extra costs.

Kurt

 

[SrPhatness]

I like the tape idea, how about a sawzall, could work too I guess, this is the exact same boat I have for sale, looking forward to seing your progress.

Sawzall is hard to keep in a straight cut, but not impossible. Sawzall will defenatly chew it up though.
Different types if blades with more Kerf (angle of the teeth) are make for cross cutting and will also help minimize blow out.
Another good way that I forgot to mention earlier, that works really well (when you do it right) is scoring the board with a razor knife first. This can be a little tricky because you Must score nice and deep and STRAIGHT. Then when you cut you go right ALONGSIDE the score mark, not through it.
Here is the cut-->=====________<--and the score. Not cut===---score
That little trick works great, but you're fall off (the scrap) might be all blown out.

 

[SrPhatness]

Alright,
Todays progress. Made templates for the front and back of the middle bench, then cut the panels out of the DryPly. Waiting to attach the panels until I get new Deep Cycle batts. That way I can determine the location of the bolts that will hold the panel on. Because they will run right between the bait-well and batteries to help hold them all in place. With any luck the new batteries will be short enough that I can put a hinged lid over the whole thing.

Installed the transducer

Then I did the wiring. 40 ft of 14ga red(+) and 40 ft of 14ga white(-). Used it all. Used crimp style butt connectors , with a little electrical tape to seal from water. Ran all of the wires through 1/2" PEX tubing as conduit, which worked out pretty good I think. Used 4 swiches that I got at Wal-Mart. In this order stern to bow; 1*bilge pump*2*navigation lights*3*driving lights:mrgreen:*4*Wired and waiting for on-board lighting*. Install went well with very little problem. Everything worked, and I was very pleased with the days progress. (a full day)

 

[SrPhatness]

Yesterdays progress,
* Cleaned up the wiring
* Installed all threads in center bench
* Mounted the pole holders
* Mounted the bilge pump

Today I'm going to focus on getting the fish finder mounted. glue some more cleats so the bench top slides left to right.

After that most of the "serious" modifications are done.

I just need to come up with about $300 for an old rebuilt 5-7hp outboard, and two good deep cycle batteries.

I at least want to paint the decking to help seal the edges. I don't know about the boat though, I will have to see what my price options are.

The trailer need a little work though. I need to put another bunk in to support across the front of the boat, and I would like to put those bearing buddies on the trailer hubs.

 

[SrPhatness]

Got my pole storage figured out. I mounted the pole holders on the left side on the front of the bench so the top will slide under it. That way the top supports the reels while the weight of the reels keeps the top in place.

All of the wiring is hooked up and everything is mounted to my liking, except the transducer. I mounted it pretty close to where the motor will be :x . I used marine GOOP to mount the transducer so I is going to be a pain to get off, and the mounting bracket may not come off in one piece. So I'm going to wait until I get a motor and as long as the prop doesn't come to close to it I'm going to leave it there, and see how it affects the performance. Then I'll move it if it's too bad. I hope not.

I really like the way the fish finder slides side to side. I has already proven very convenient.

I like the fact that the seats are low enough that the boat cover will go on over them. And like wise the seats will hold the center of the cover up so water and snow roll off.

I'm thinking about making my own bimini cover out of PVC, but we will see about that.

I need to patch the boat cover. It has a few small holes, and one big one. I was thinking maybe getting a tarp, and rolling some sort of glue on the backside. Just like a big sticky patch.

Just waiting for a motor and some batteries.

 

[RBuffordTJ]

It is coming along good man. I like what you have done.

Bufford in Orlando

 

[Nevillizer]

Good looking fishing machine.

 

[weezer71]

Did the Liquid Nails hold the foam and the wood together well??? I tried spray adhesive, but not sticking very well. Thank you for the great idea on the floor decking and foam! I did that on my project and will work great . Just need better adhesive.

Scott P.
Indiana