my 1436 build

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these are not environment pictures, & I am still slacking on redoing the paint job so please excuse the practice camo in these pictures, but i finally made time to snap some shots of the finished mods, minus final paint scheme of course:
h8zz.jpg
daw3.jpg


p5tl.jpg
uud4.jpg


& my homemade switch panel. electric choke/start on the key, kill switch lanyard for safety, top switch is for the nav & anchor lights, flipped up (or back from the driver's perspective) is the anchor light by itself, the middle is off for both the nav & anchor lights, & down is nav & anchor lights both on. the bottom switch is to turn on the 1200gph bilge pump
k6cm.jpg
1hfs.jpg

in the above picture, you can see that i sealed up the seam between the floor & the sides of the hull to keep trash from being trapped in that tiny crack. i then drilled 2 drain holes just in front of the rear bench. they're right over top of the outer 2 channels in the hull so if trash goes in the holes it can flow to the back to be cleaned out. they're also just smaller than a 12ga shotgun shell :wink:


i reinforced the rear corner gussets with some 1/8" aluminum plate which was hammered to fit the not so flat surface, then 5200'd & pop rivet'd in place. the cleats are through bolted with stainless hardware, including large washers & nyloc nuts on the bottom. you can also see my bilge exit hiding on the side of the hull in that ugly camo paint job lol:
4m5u.jpg


here's the battery hatch open & closed, notice the 12v outlets on that battery box top (1 on each side), comes in handy for sure. i can charge my phone, my q-beam, or hook up an inverter to run anything from a fan to a shop light or power tools, etc...:
m0iz.jpg
q40y.jpg


here's the gun box open & closed:
vts9.jpg
13y9.jpg



& the front storage hatch open/closed:
d9hi.jpg
rcyx.jpg


soon to be camo'd motor:
h623.jpg


this angle shows the foot step I added to the front, it's great for tossing the castnet and walking off the bow to the dock or shore, but it also hides the wires & provides a mounting surface for my nav light. it's not the most beautiful design since i cut it short on the width for an easy install, but hey it works great!
929g.jpg


here's a few of everything covered up for storage while not in use:
sy4h.jpg
kpkq.jpg


rx6m.jpg
drjy.jpg


7j1f.jpg
audy.jpg



& what's under the cover for support to keep the trash & water out:
bkif.jpg
lz38.jpg


85ag.jpg
eb8p.jpg


Aside from paint, I still want to tidy up the area behind the rear bench. I have 1 sheet of diamond plate and about 1/2 a stick of angle leftover that I wanna use to make a rear deck. I also have 2 more flush mount rod holders to install in the back of the boat somewhere, either in the bench or in the yet-to-be-built rear deck. The only other thing I definitely know I'm doing is to build up a tiller handle extension from a piece of rubber hose, stainless hose clamps, & PVC. I like to be able to drive standing or seated
 
thanks man, i am gonna start from scratch on the paint by repainting the whole boat tan inside & out. then using a lighter colored brown, hit it with the camo template 1st. then go over that with the bark stencil in black, but not hit 100% of the boat, only about 60%. then go over that with the marsh grass in green, but not 100%, only about 30%. so overall the boat will be tan & brown, with areas of bark & grass.
 
I like the PVC hoops for the cover. When I get to that point of getting a cover for mine, I am going to borrow the design. Keep up the good work!
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323604#p323604 said:
chevyrulz » 53 minutes ago[/url]"]thanks man, i am gonna start from scratch on the paint by repainting the whole boat tan inside & out. then using a lighter colored brown, hit it with the camo template 1st. then go over that with the bark stencil in black, but not hit 100% of the boat, only about 60%. then go over that with the marsh grass in green, but not 100%, only about 30%. so overall the boat will be tan & brown, with areas of bark & grass.

Sounds like a plan. How did you keep from "overspraying" your stencils?

I'm using these stencils.

https://www.camostencil.com/Ambush-GroundCover.html
 
i like your rig... i know youre stoked about it...

but not to be a debbie downer, you need more trailer under your boat...your transom needs to be sitting on bunks...weight of motor trailering over time will cause a hook in the bottom, and crack welds on the top corner braces at the gunnel rails....

and the transom riser just straight up scares me looking at it...
 
'preciate it panFried!

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323613#p323613 said:
BigTerp » Yesterday, 15:30[/url]"]How did you keep from "overspraying" your stencils?
actually i didn't, lol. the overspray was definitely a problem. that's one reason it's so dark, the black bark especially left a lot of black overspray. by the time i sprayed, dark brown, then black, then green stencils, there's a lot of overspray on my tan base coat. when i "cut up" my stencil, what i did was cut a small section of the pattern from the main big sheet. & then add masking tape border to it about 4" so that the pattern is surrounded by like 4" to reduce overspray when i go to redo the paint job. what i want, is perfect computer printed looking camo, but i realize that's not going to be possible with my level of patience. so, what i am going to do, is just take more time when i redo it & try to get it as close to perfect as a can. the big flat areas are easy, but the smaller areas like corners or the front interior sides where it's only like 2" tall are tricky. the right way to do it, is to tape the stencil in place, spray it, & then let it dry enough to be able to move it over & repeat the process, but that would take literally days & days of work. the flatter the stencil is, the less "blurry" your pattern is from overspray. but i was also getting overspray on areas not even covered by the stencil, so ideally you need an exhaust fan to reduce that problem. it definitely helps if you have 2 friends to hold the stencils. what i learned is that you don't have to stencil the whole boat to make a great looking paintjob, in fact, it looks better if you don't. you need to let that base coat show through, so just put the stencils where you can get them flat & spray them nice & even & dark but don't let it run obviously. the finished product will look great.


marshman you're correct about the issues that will happen if your boat is not properly supported by the bunks. my trailer was too small for the boat until I extended my tongue. It still looks too small because the end of the frame is so far from the transom, but I'm confident that it's just big enough. i want to put larger wheels/tires on it too, but just for looks, lol. you can kinda tell from the picture below, the bunks go almost all the way back to the transom except the last 4". ideally you want the bunks to stop 1-2" from the transom, but i'm not sweating 2":

w0cf.jpg



i do have a "Frankenstein" sorta rig with my long-shaft motor & home-made jack plate. before i built this, i really worried that the boat would be extra tippy with that motor up so high compared to using a short-shaft motor, but it's actually not any more tippy than my buddies 1436 with a yamaha 30hp short-shaft, & he doesn't even have a deck. if i had the $, i'd have done a lot of things different, but for an $850 rig, i'm super stoked. it's kinda funny that i spent way more on my mods than i spent on the boat/motor/trailer, but i still feel like i could sell it for more than i have invested (not counting my time...)
 
no...ideally, you want your transom sitting on bunks with these light gauge aluminum boats...but im sure youll be fine for a while...

be careful with the motor bounce on the highway...that does more damage to jonboats than anything..

i like to prop mine up on a transom saver and ratchet strap it tight to the trailer so when trailer bounces, everything is nice and tight...
 
i hear ya. i've always thought it looked silly when the bunks stick out past the transom, and if you look at any factory rig, the bunks stop at or before the transom (usually before it). i reckon that's that just proves form & function don't always go together. & i think the bunks sticking out wouldn't be the 1st thing someone thinks of as silly if they look at my rig, haha :mrgreen:

I'll keep an eye on it. i've taken it over some really rough terrain over the past few months without any issues at all. these little alumacrafts are pretty tough with the knee brace & the weep channels despite their thin skin. it's always good to have extra insurance tho!


speaking of motor bounce, i have to use a dang bungee cord to keep my motor in the upright position while trailering. the little notches in the tilt slots on each side that hold the motor up are rounded off enough that a small bump causes it to release & slam down, even in the up-locked position. it's done it 3x, & not bowed out my hull or broken my lower unit somehow. a little tension from a strategically placed bungee though, keeps it secured even over the gnarliest potholes & other bumps (so far!). i'm probably gonna just raise my bunks up a tad higher so i can trailer around with the motor down since that's actually a little easier on the hull any way. also it's harder for rain to get into the cowling when the motor is down.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323760#p323760 said:
chevyrulz » 26 Jul 2013, 16:17[/url]"]i hear ya. i've always thought it looked silly when the bunks stick out past the transom, and if you look at any factory rig, the bunks stop at or before the transom (usually before it). i reckon that's that just proves form & function don't always go together. & i think the bunks sticking out wouldn't be the 1st thing someone thinks of as silly if they look at my rig, haha :mrgreen:

I'll keep an eye on it. i've taken it over some really rough terrain over the past few months without any issues at all. these little alumacrafts are pretty tough with the knee brace & the weep channels despite their thin skin. it's always good to have extra insurance tho!


speaking of motor bounce, i have to use a dang bungee cord to keep my motor in the upright position while trailering. the little notches in the tilt slots on each side that hold the motor up are rounded off enough that a small bump causes it to release & slam down, even in the up-locked position. it's done it 3x, & not bowed out my hull or broken my lower unit somehow. a little tension from a strategically placed bungee though, keeps it secured even over the gnarliest potholes & other bumps (so far!). i'm probably gonna just raise my bunks up a tad higher so i can trailer around with the motor down since that's actually a little easier on the hull any way. also it's harder for rain to get into the cowling when the motor is down.

They have a product in the States there called Lock and Haul,seems like a reasonable solution to your problem
Over here we tend to support the motor from a fixed point on the trailer but that would not be possible with you set up

Here's a pic I found of the lock and haul
lock and haul.jpg
 
thanks Colby!

Shaggs, I appreciate the info & pictures. I actually have seen that style motor support before & considered it, if my bungee ever fails me, I'll look into getting one :mrgreen:

this past weekend, I swapped out the front V style bow stop that came on my trailer for a home-made one which fits my hull. cost $10, I had the 2x4 laying around, but the carpet & stainless hardware had to be purchased from lowes. I'll put a picture of it up here soon. I used 1.5" x 3/8" stainless bolts, nyloc nuts, & washers, 1 linear foot of black outdoor carpet, & about a 1' of treated 2x4. the tabs that held the old V style bow stop just needed to be finessed a little to work as a mount. i put a crescent wrench on the tabs & bent each one 90 degrees to the outside to make mounting tabs for my flat bow stop. on the 2x4, i used a 7/8" paddle bit to countersink the bolt heads so they don't hit the hull. it's rock solid, when it moves, it's the winch post flexing & not the 2x4 lol
 
Thanks Nick

I've been loving this boat during duck season, Here's some more pictures of the build after painting & a few dead ducks:

2k13.jpg
i5wm.jpg


x8de.jpg
3uiv.jpg


ruag.jpg
gk23.jpg


zywl.jpg
73fq.jpg


yx8f.jpg
a4n6.jpg


mfwx.jpg
c520.jpg


f9n1.jpg
uov7.jpg


z7lh.jpg
7yx6.jpg


l6q7.jpg
gl78.jpg


cpoz.jpg
xcp7.jpg


pgdn.jpg
4v1g.jpg



Y'all feel free to holler if you would like any details or better pictures of anything shown. Thanks for looking!
 
Man good job on your boat bud, and the truck load full of ducks! Nice job, real clean too!
 
Nice work man!!! Turned out real nice. I see you have what looks like a few shovelers in the truck. Where are you at? It's pretty rare for us to see them down my way.

What did you put around your gas tank? I usually just throw the decoy bag over it when we get set up. Something more permananet would be nice.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336798#p336798 said:
Gators5220 » 18 Dec 2013, 20:24[/url]"]Man good job on your boat bud, and the truck load full of ducks! Nice job, real clean too!
Thank you!


[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336915#p336915 said:
BigTerp » 20 Dec 2013, 16:49[/url]"]Nice work man!!! Turned out real nice. I see you have what looks like a few shovelers in the truck. Where are you at? It's pretty rare for us to see them down my way.
Preciate it Terp, check your PMs for location, & yes those are shovelers, along with mallards, green winged teal, & a merganser. For the record, I didn't shoot the merganser, haha


[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336915#p336915 said:
BigTerp » 20 Dec 2013, 16:49[/url]"]
What did you put around your gas tank? I usually just throw the decoy bag over it when we get set up. Something more permananet would be nice.
I've also used the decoy bag to cover the gas tank. the camo gas tank cover in the above pictures is just an Avery outboard motor cover that ripped on me, so I repurposed it to camo out my neon red gas tank. MudBuddy and GoDevil websites sell an actual camo 6 gallon boat gas tank cover for like $30-40:

https://www.godevil.com/Hunting_Boat_Options.html

https://www.mudbuddy.com/Store specifications sheets/Fuel Tank Spec.html
 
Awesome job Chevy, if your like me you would probably be looking for the next deal of the century to go crazy with money on something that makes you happy. Nice quackers by the way. =D> =D>
 
Thanks big, I sure wish I could afford to buy another hull, motor, & trailer so I can do it all over again!

Here's a few environment pictures, I'll try to take a few more as the season goes on:
m628.jpg
m9vj.jpg


17a7.jpg
2irw.jpg


also, this is what I started with before trades & mods:
xhsy.jpg
 
I thought you said there was a boat in those pics. I can't find it. Lol. Great job. Looks really good. Did you ever get a speed by gps?
 

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