My 1985 PolarKraft project (HELP, I BROKE my boat! page 13)

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dixie_boysles said:
Do you think it would be ok just to sand and use self-etching primer over the whole boat. Suggestions please.

Yes again... :?

dixie_boysles said:
yes what, prime whole thing or spot prime

Maybe I didn't understand your question.

If you are asking if it's "ok" for either option, the answer is yes so long as the paint that is on the boat is on good, and you properly scuff it up so that the new paint will adhere.

That said.....If it were me, I'd sand the whole boat, prime the whole boat, then paint the whole boat.
 
Got some more work done today (I took pics, just havnt uploaded them, working from blackberry). Took the grinder to the bottom of the weak spot since I had an aluminum plate welded to the top of it yesterday. Gonna have another plate welded the bottom of the spot monday. This should insure its leakproof and very strong with about 5/16" of material at that spot. Also, previous owner had silicone on the front rivets, got it all off, gonna hammer them together and seal em back with new stuff. (I've read something about steelflex, what is it and where do u get it). I also got all the old stickers off of it today! Tomorrow, gonna pick up some marine epoxy and tomorrow I'm gonna put this in any screw holes where thing have been mounted over the years. When it cures, I'll sand them down and wallah-no more hole! I'm also gonna pick up some 150 grit (is this ok) sandpaper (for da sander and single sheets to do by hand)to roughen up surface. Is this grit ok or do ya'll recommend something else? Pics tomorrow of progress so far.
 
UPDATE:

Picked up some materials today.

-1 pack of 150 grit sandpaper
-2 fine grit (150 grit equiv) sponges
-1 tube of marine epoxy (to fill screw holes where thing have been mounted over the years.

Here is progress from yesterday:

Spot welded in floor awaiting aluminum plate for the other side of it
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The other side of the spot baing grinded and cleaned for the new plate monday.
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The trailer. I redid the bunks, but they are going to have to be Re-done. They are nowhere near tall enough because the boat hits front of trailer when loading. This time i will stack the 2x4s and extend them further up. Also, i have to pick up some 1x1 tubing to make some side bunks.
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The trailer will also be painted using the same paint as the boat.

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A leaky rivet, I guess ill hammer it together again and then put some kind of sealer around it (suggestions). i've never really fised them. I was told that i should just have them welded when i get that plate put on monday, but i dont know if i like that idea.

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Feb 21 UPDATE:

I went this morning to work on boat some more. Started sanding at 10:30 am and didnt stop until 5:30 pm! I sanded the entire outside of the boat by hand with 150 grit sandpaper. Going today to sand the inside of the boat. Still undecided if i want to spot prime just where bare aluminum is, or just prime the entire thing :?: :? Also you can see where fishfinders have been mounted over the years...lol--there is a 2 1/2" by 2" rectange on the back with about 15 screw holes in it! I am going to have an aluminum plate welded to the back of that spot, then going to fill them in with marine epoxy. I also rebucked all the rivets up front with a sledgehammer on one side and hitting them with a regular hammer. I hope this helps some, but now have to decide if i want to have them welded or just use that marine epoxy around them as well. So many decisions! Also, you can see where i grinded off the sticker, they were really on there and even sticer remover wouldnt remove them---the grinder did! On to the pics, cant really tell its been sanded, but it has and now my arms are about to fall off.

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.

^^one of the leaky rivets. You can tell its been hit and banged on before where its so depressed into the aluminum! What would ya'll guys do in this situation?
 
Get an order of steelflex and so teh entire bottom and halfway up the sides and all those leaky rivets will be sealed for a long time. You may have to patch the rear holes with aluminum .from the fish finders and so forth.
 
Troutman3000 said:
Get an order of steelflex and so teh entire bottom and halfway up the sides and all those leaky rivets will be sealed for a long time. You may have to patch the rear holes with aluminum .from the fish finders and so forth.

i know ive seen talk about it and searched it some, but couldnt really find what i was looking for. Where do you get it at? Also, do you mean coat it on the outside of the boat or inside, or does it matter?
 
Look in the top thread thats stickied Everything Steelflex. Everything is in there. My opinions is that if you want to do the inside and oustide that would improve the seal. Otheres have stated thats not necessary though and only the outside is important.
 
I'm almost done sading the entire boat! Got half of the inside and all of the outside done so far!
 
Troutman3000 said:
Keep up the good work man!

Appreciate it, i am getting it the aluminum plate welded on the ouside bottom of the boat tomorrow as well as a small one welded on the back of all those holes where the transducer goes. I should be done sanding tomorrow as well. Then all i lack is putting marine epoxy in any screw holes around the boat and cleaning it up. Then it will be ready for paint!
 
Just ordered some Black Vinyl Die Cut Decals for my boat numbers and baot name! Cost me $15.00 locally!

My boat name is:

"Bass Akwards"
 
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Here is the new boat name! It replaces the factory PolarKraft stickers. I have two of these. I love the font (BooPee font), I think it compliments the name well! It is in black vinyl. Hope ya'll like it. I think this will look awsome on gray paint
 
alright, i picked up my flooring for the jon boat today! Its a bigass roadsign! No i didnt steal it, i bought it at local salvage yard...lol

I think this will be better than using plywood (ill neer have to replace it, thats for sure!)

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Ill cover this in boat carpet and it will look awesome! I just have to get existing rivets out of it, clean it good, measure and cut and place in boat now!
 
You can definately "spot prime" that boat. Your boat appears to have only the original OD Green paint on it, so it will actually blend pretty well. Because you have sanded it already, I would wipe down the bare areas that need priming with acetone (be sure to overlap out onto the good paint) and prime away. Personally, I would put 2 or 3 coats on to build the thickness up, then after it cured for 5 to 7 days I would lightly scuff the primed areas with a scotchbrite pad so that the finish is slick like the rest of the boat. Then just paint away with whatever regular paint you are going to use.

Because of the leaking rivets, it would probably be wise for you to go with Steelflex on the bottom before you do any other painting. Once the steelflex is on, it can be painted along with the rest of the boat. Here is the thread full of information about the stuff. Hope this helps.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11977
 
UPDATE: 2/3/10

Got some more sanding done last night! Almost done with that crap! We also went ahead and cut out the middle bench to make even more room in the boat; I'm going to put a fixed pedistal in place of the bench with a swivel seat on it. I use AutoCad everyday, so at work today, im going to draw out my floor template with measurements i took last night and then transfer the template to some thin plastic sheets that we use for templates for granite. That way I can just trace it onto my sign and cut it out!

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I'm a little ticked because when i was cutting out the becnh, we placed an old blanket down in the bottom so i wouldnt get bottom of boat dirty from my boots. Well, unknowing to me, the blanket had oil on it and got a little on the floor of boat. So now i have to sand that part again and make sure i clean it extremely well where the oil was!
 

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