My Alumacraft 1648 ncs project!

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Rich the new Yamaha tanks are unlike any older models too completely designed to eliminate that.... Also makes a spare tank super expensive lol


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[richg99]

Yep. I have a new tank on my G3. I do have the "fuel demand valve". Surprisingly, it works just great. richg99

 

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Finally got my Cmc 35 mounted can't wait to test it out. I bought it used on craigist for 300 which I think was a fair price. It doesn't sound great but it performs flawlessly out of water. But working construction and being on lifts hydraulic do make some funny noises sometimes. Curious if there is anything to grease on it though. Haven't really looked fit a grease port.

 

[richg99]

It's been many years since I had mine. I don't recall any unusual noises, though. Great devices.

I guess I can't understand why they are so very expensive. You can buy a bottle jack for a few bucks. Can hanging a 12-volt starter motor on add so much more cost???

They've been around for a long time and have an excellent reputation.

Keep us posted. richg99

 

[jethro]

Lotsa things cost big money and who knows why. Example: https://www.bigjon.com/product/single-quik-draw-rod-holder

Tell me why that costs almost $200?

 

[richg99]

I guess the old adage...."If it says BOAT..Bring-On-Another-Thousand" is true.

Maybe that's why I buy lots of boat re-do materials at my local Lowes, or even my Dollar Store. I am old, and cheap.

Ha Ha richg99

 

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Going to brace it onto the transom with structural pipe fittings, wall flanges to be exact. And move my rod holders up to there as opposed to on the transom lip. I fish alone a lot in the mornings and I often stand while operating my tiller motor Bc the water is like glass on the lake. This will give me something to grab onto if needed and stop me from bending down for my rods. I'm viewing it as a win win. Anyone ever see anything like it? Thoughts comments concerns?


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[richg99]

On skinny flats boats, like a Gheenoe, they are placed amidships. They are called "sissy bars" by some. I'd call them "smart bars" myself. Looks good. richg99

 

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Got my r&r hatches in yesterday. They really should be a site sponsor for how much everyone raves about them. Very pleased with the quality. Can't wait to get it in. Probably this weekend. I'll post pics when it's cut open:


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Cutting in my R&R hatch. Super happy with it so far. Ran out of time tonight but everything looks as expected after checking fish freaks build.


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Finished the install on the hatch, as advertised these things are rock solid. Definitely thinking about a couple more of them. I sealed the edges with 5200 and fastened it with ss hardware. Worked like a charm.

Foam was more frustrating then difficult to remove. Although I was just using a hack saw blade w tape for a handle. I was able to fit my three large fenders, three life jackets, flare kit, lights, ropes, collapsible oar, and spare parts in there.

Also in the last pic I finally got my Garmin Echomap 73sv mounted. Still have to get a stern saver to finish up the installation but couldn't help myself to get it started.

Still tossing around the idea of hydro turf. I want it but don't want to pay for it. (Common problem)

Flip up cleats also will be on the way soon

Anyone have any recommendations as to where I should mount my PTT switch from the Cmc pt35? I can't come up w a perfect place.


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Prototype number two of my motor arch. First one didn't work as planned. When I pushed the tiller arm to the left to turn right it would hit the arch and take away about a quarter of my turn radius. If I didn't have my new Cmc unit it would have worked but I didn't take the motor being setback 5 1/2" into consideration.

This is outdoor conduit that, If it works when I mock it up on the boat, I will wrap in fiber fix to stiffen it up like a rock.

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[richg99]

Pretty sexy looking. Let us know more about wrapping it and how sturdy that makes it.

I'd be most concerned about how it mounts to the deck or console. That would be the weakest point, I'd guess.

I considered doing something like that for a stand-up support for my kayak. I was going to use a "Senior Walker". richg99

 

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Rich definitely right about the weakest point. I think I'm actually going to get pvc to thread adapters and have the final 4" that attach into the flange be steel pipe.


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[richg99]

"PVC to thread adapters"

That would move the weak point up some. You might consider Galvanized Pipe and a pipe Flange...run a piece of galvanized pipe up a foot or so. Slide the PVC over the pipe...and drill and connect the PVC directly into the foot long galvanized pipe.

That way, the metal pipe and flange would take most of the bending pressures.

richg99

 

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But if I use the adapters the joint would be wrapped in fiber flex, and the set screws would be tightening into steel not pvc.


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[richg99]

Your boat. Your call. Keep us posted. Looking good. richg99

 

[FishinLite]

I might take your prototype to your local muffler shop and see how much they would get to bend it out of stainless steel muffler pipe. Their computer controlled bender are amazing. =P~

 

[sonny.barile]

If you want to stiffen up the conduit fill it with expanding foam.

 

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I might take your prototype to your local muffler shop and see how much they would get to bend it out of stainless steel muffler pipe. Their computer controlled bender are amazing. =P~

My ole man said the same thing! But muffler OD and pipe size OD are different I believe so my fittings would work.


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