My First Boat Restoration

[AnglerC]

So today I started my first boat restoration. My boat is a 16' 1981 StarCraft Pike Master. I think the previous owner bought it to flip it and realized its not that easy and gave up. Anything electrical was cut 2" from it and all wiring was gone. Carpet was bad, a lot of overspray on rattle canned paint over areas that were not scuffed first. It had its issues. The hull however was tight with zero leaks from what I can tell. This boat was a gift so I'm working with what I have. I like it a lot so I want to fix it up nice like a lot of the projects I see here. So today I started. The transom has tons of holes in it that were filled with silicone and left. There are a few rotten spots and the splash well is all caulked up and a mess. Today I got the motor off and a chunk of plywood that was on the outside of the transom. Spacer maybe? Anyway I got the corner brackets off and removed some other screws and bolts.

So I have some newbie questions.

First - I plan to fill all the holes with some brazing rods I bought at a boat show. They are called HTS-735-II Fluxless Brazing Rods. Has anyone ever used these? Are the effective? good? bad?

Second - I need suggestions on how to keep the holes I want to fill separate from the holes I don't want to fill? Nothing would be worse then re-drilling holes I need to put the ob back on with.

Third - What method should I use to treat and seal the new transom once I have it cut?

Forth - It looks like a lot of JB Weld has been used on the inside of the transom. How hard is that stuff to remove and what would be the best method to use?

So there's my first questions. I'll try to post some pix so you can see what I'm talking about.

Thanks for your help

KC

 

[AnglerC]

Here's what she looks like.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Welcome to Tin Boats.
Don't using the brazing rods and never use pressure treated wood on an aluminum boat.
Have the holes mig or tig welded if they are below the waterline. Above the waterline JB weld works well.
To seal the plywood for the transom there is a mix called the old timers formula. It's 1 part Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane, 1 part Boiled Linseed oil and 2 parts Mineral Spirts.

 

[AnglerC]

Can I ask why to avoid the brazing rods? I cant afford to pay a welder to fill all of them. There's tons of them.

 

[AnglerC]

One other question. How do you get those two splash well drains out?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The brazing rods are much harder to work with then they look, you could over heat the aluminum causing more damage. Talk to some welders get some quotes.
Lets see some pictures of the holes your working on.
The easiest way to remove the drains is to bend one edge in then twist it in on it's self with needle nose pliers.

 

[AnglerC]

The transom issues.

 

[AnglerC]

A few more. Just in the area the plywood was on the outside I counted 35 holes that need to be filled. Then on either side there are a tone of screws where they stuffed the hole with Silicone and screwed the screw back in.

 

[AnglerC]

The easiest way to remove the drains is to bend one edge in then twist it in on it's self with needle nose pliers.

Can they be reused?

If not where do I get new ones?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

That's a lot of holes. Luckily most are above the water line and small they can be filled with JB weld/water weld. As for the drains they can't be reused new ones can be found online get aluminum or plastic not the brass ones.

 

[AnglerC]

That's a lot of holes. Luckily most are above the water line and small they can be filled with JB weld/water weld. As for the drains they can't be reused new ones can be found online get aluminum or plastic not the brass ones.

Can JB Weld be sanded? I'd like a smooth finish if I can. And what is the technical name for those drains?

 

[Al U Minium]

My experience with JB weld is you can sand it down, scrape it, and if you want to remove it - do it with lots of ventilation, heat an old screwdriver blade and stick it into the JB Weld. It will fall apart from the heat, don't heat the aluminum directly.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Yes JB weld can be sanded.
What I do is take a counter sink bit and bevel the holes on the inside and outside of the hull. For the small holes I put some masking tape on the inside of the hull then apply the JB weld into the hole from the outside and cover with masking tape. On the bigger holes I make a backer of thin aluminum bigger than the hole. I back butter the backer and tape it over the hole on the inside of the hull. Then fill the hole from the outside and cover with masking tape. I customized a pair of 2 screw wood clamps the apply pressure to the backer.
JB weld putty is easier to use but not as strong.
The Drain tubes are Splash well drain tubes.

 

[AnglerC]

Today's progress...

 

[AnglerC]

This is the stuff I pulled out of the transom that wasn't needed or being used. The wood dowels were the best.

 

[AnglerC]

This has me concerned. There was about a tube of caulk filling this gap between the slash well and the transom. Any thoughts or ideas of how I could repair that rather than fill it?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The old transom is probably bowed out it should fit tighter with the new transom in place. It looks like someone reshaped one side of the transom.

 

[AnglerC]

The old transom is probably bowed out it should fit tighter with the new transom in place. It looks like someone reshaped one side of the transom.

I would agree. They completely redid the stern from the original. I didn't know that until I found a brochure with a picture of it. So I don't know if it's all going to meet up flush when I it back together.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I drilled 2 holes down into the transom wood and screwed in 2 long eye bolts then ran a chain to the eye bolts to pull the transom wood up.

 

[AnglerC]

I drilled 2 holes down into the transom wood and screwed in 2 long eye bolts then ran a chain to the eye bolts to pull the transom wood up.

That's a great idea!!!