Need help finding rivets, Tracker Grizzly 1648

[airshot]

Yeah they were a ***** to get out so assuming stainless, just too much moisture under the floor they rotted out bad.

If they were SS, they were a very poor SS in order to corrode like that ! Check your SS with a magnet first, it it attracts, they are junk.

 

[airshot]

When I did mine I believe I used a 3/16 bit. The holes are right at 1/4 inch. I would definitely add some drain holes to the framing underneath because those side channels don't drain at all. There's some foam under there but the bulk of it is in the back bench and pods plus some under the casting deck.

I had to cut some of the aluminum on the sides out to access the foam underneath in the outer most channels under the floor. I buttoned mine back up temporarily last week, I used 1/4 inch aluminum rivets, because I kept breaking rivet nut setters, and the rivet nuts didn't have enough grab to hold tight. Eventually I may replace them with stainless rivets for strength but idk.

Rivnuts it's are very tricky to install correctly. The hole needs to be snug for the rivnut to go into, if sloppy, the rivnut won't hold. I have not had much luck with the rivnut setting tool, I made my own out of nuts and bolts and it works much better.

 

[vallottonw2]

@Johnnyboy11 & @airshot knowing what you know now... would you even have removed the deck or just have focused on the rear bench and pod foam?

 

[Johnnyboy11]

knowing what you know now... would you even have removed the deck or just have focused on the rear bench and pod foam?

Definitely still remove it. I got over 150 lbs of wet foam out, plus I was able to add drainage under the floor for the water to actually get out. Also by removing nasty rusted rivets it'll stop the corrosion underneath hopefully.

 

[vallottonw2]

wow.... 150 pounds out of the floor? wild.

 

[Johnnyboy11]

wow.... 150 pounds out of the floor? wild.

Filled a 55 gallon trashcan twice.

 

[LDUBS]

Installing the new floor, I would keep it simple and just screw it down to the framing. Wouldn't take many stainless screws. Instead of one big piece I might also consider doing the floor in a couple of sections. Then if you want to temporarily remove it for any reason you can just pull up one section or all of it as needed.

My two cents.

 

[Johnnyboy11]

Installing the new floor, I would keep it simple and just screw it down to the framing. Wouldn't take many stainless screws. Instead of one big piece I might also consider doing the floor in a couple of sections. Then if you want to temporarily remove it for any reason you can just pull up one section or all of it as needed.

My two cents.

I am putting the same floor back down. I just used aluminum rivets for now. If I end up pulling the floor again eventually I may use stainless rivets, the rivnuts weren't long enough to grab through the material.

 

[LDUBS]

I am putting the same floor back down. I just used aluminum rivets for now. If I end up pulling the floor again eventually I may use stainless rivets, the rivnuts weren't long enough to grab through the material.

If the existing floor is in good shape then that is an excellent option.

Putting drainage channels in is a good idea too. Did you put two part foam back in to replace the soaked stuff you removed? Some cut layers of sheet foam instead.

 

[Johnnyboy11]

If the existing floor is in good shape then that is an excellent option.

Putting drainage channels in is a good idea too. Did you put two part foam back in to replace the soaked stuff you removed? Some cut layers of sheet foam instead.

Probably not putting any back in, if I do it would be cut foam.

 

[LDUBS]

Probably not putting any back in, if I do it would be cut foam.

You didn't ask and it is your call. I will offer the opinion that if it were me I would put foam back in to avoid putting myself in a position of doing a modification that made the boat noncompliant with regulations.

 

[mirrocraft16]

If this helps, here's a few links I saved over the years when rebuilding a few old boats.
The rivets used in aircraft are the same type used in most boats.
Most aluminum boats have 3/16" rivets with the occasional 1/4" rivet.
Loose fitting rivets must be drilled out to the next size.
When measuring how long the rivet needs to be the general rule of thumb is that the amount of rivet shank that you want sticking out before 'setting' the rivet is equal to the width of the shank.
Longer rivets can be cut down, this is fine if you only have a few to deal with but its too time consuming in any serious number.

Rivets must fit tight before being set, if its loose, re-drill the hole to the next size and get the correct rivet for that size. .


Riveting kit
https://www.eastwood.com/solid-rivet-kit.html
(These are fairly expensive, you can use any short stroke air hammer and the rivet set punch and anvil can be had separately).

Solid Rivets
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ha/rivets.html

https://www.wicksaircraft.com/shop/ms20470-universal-head-100-solid-rivet/

https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/solid+rivets

Rivet Nuts (Nutserts, Rivnuts)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Button-Washers-Threaded-Nutsert/

Rivet nuts are notoriously weak and prone to failure. They come in aluminum, stainless and carbon steel. The issue of galvanic corrosion comes into play with these in all situations. SS is the best option.
The problem is finding a reliable source for thee in SAE thread. Most better sources seem to only have metric sizes, and finding SS metric bolts and screws in the US can be an issue.

Harbor Freight also sells a cheap rivet nut kit that comes with a decent tool to install these.

Closed end 'Pop' type rivets
https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets
These are fine for quick fixes but I don't see them as a permanent fix.

Rivets generally don't need to be sealed but a bit of 3M 5200 sealer around the rivet before setting can guarantee its leak free, just the sealer doesn't inhibit the rivet from being fully set.