Need some opinions on Steel Flex

[fullmoon]

HEY RUSS, Fellow Canton resident here. Yes. it will seal a leaky rivet, but like Russ said reset it first. I just used a sledge hammer to hold against the flat part of the rivet and tapped the head with a 2# hammer. One or two good taps did the job, but the leaks I had were minor. The rivets were not really lose.

 

[CrewCabMax]

Crewcab. The pad is 80 grit, and I got it at Home Depot, for about $5 or $6. It's like sandpaper flaps, and it's more than a buffing pad. It will QUICKLY remove paint. You have to keep it moving. If you only need to scuff up existing paint, it's a little too coarse. I wanted to pretty much strip down the bottom to bare metal, and it did that. Avoid the rivets, as it will wear them down quickly.Touch up around the rivets with the wire wheel. This one pad did the bottom of my boat, took two wheels.

Do they make a pad that has a lighter grit?? I'm not looking to remove the paint, just scuff. Thanks. What grit would i want for that?( i think its the hight the grit, the less abrasive, but i dont remember) Thanks!

 

[RStewart]

steelflex recommends 50 grit or rougher. i used 60 myself.

 

[ober51]

steelflex recommends 50 grit or rougher. i used 60 myself.

Jerry told me 80, I used 60, and the literature says 50. Use something in there.

 

[fullmoon]

I think you will find 80 grit is more than enough. Like I said earlier, I used it and it will easily remove paint down to bare metal in a hurry.And yes, higher the number the less abrasive it is. If you keep the grinder moving it will do the job. Good luck

 

[taxidermist]

The instructions call for 36 grit.

I ordered two quarts as FASCO recommended I did not order the tint. Since my old boat has several coats of paint I took it down to the metal, bucked and replaced rivets as needed, then use Marina grade PC-11 epoxy over the rivets. This old boat it was impossible to remove all the paint.

I apllied the first quart Friday and the boat only has the back 1/3rd covered, I was told to put it on thick, the thicker the better. As it set (Being a two part it sets and does not dry, no solvent to evaporate) I did use only a cheap 3 inch bristle brush to drag the epoxy around and back up the ribs over the next couple of hours.

Saturday it rained and as I dragged my fingers down the boat you could feel a real difference in the slickness of the finish.

We have a lot of rocks inour river and sometimes the Corp of Eng. shut down water and the river really gets low, so this should keep me from knocking out the rivets like the last trip...

Seems to work well and yes it seals the bottom, maybe I put it on to thick but I am happy with it.
John

P.S. the stuff cleans up with lacquer thinner.

 

[Nussy]

I just ordered the Superslick Steelflex vs the regular. Jerry told me with the Superslick to only apply it in one thick coat as a second coat will have trouble bonding to the first because of the teflon. I'll post pics once it's complete.