need to start wiring project

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A breaker between the battery and the fuse block is just a good safety practice to protect that wire, because nothing else does. Is it likely that you'll ever have a fire because of that lead? No, but for less than $10 for breaker/wire/connectors, why not?
 
Another question (seems like I'll never run out of questions on this thread!)

What do I need in order to make a connection to this 12V socket?
https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-12V-Receptacle-Blk-Plas/dp/B000NI1BI4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1334677507&sr=1-1-catcorr

It seems that it has a couple of prongs sticking out the back of it. I'm assuming there is a specific connector required to wire this into the system, but I'm not sure what to order.
 
Thanks for all the help, but I'm still not out of questions.

Now I'm wondering about choosing fuse sizes and circuit breaker size. I've tried to search and find this info, but I'm still not sure I understand. As for fuse size for each device, do I go by the amount of amps used by the device or the size of wire running to the device? Is there a chart available somewhere that will show me what to use?

And for the circuit breaker...I assume I would add up the max amount of amps to all devices combined and then choose a circuit breaker that is close, but above that amount??? Say for instance, all devices combined are 21 amps....would I go with a 30amp breaker? How about if all devices combined are 15 amps, but there is a chance that I may add another 5amp device in the future. Would it be a bad idea to use a 30amp breaker in this situation and should I just wait and add a larger breaker when I add the additional device?
 
txneal said:
Thanks for all the help, but I'm still not out of questions.

Now I'm wondering about choosing fuse sizes and circuit breaker size. I've tried to search and find this info, but I'm still not sure I understand. As for fuse size for each device, do I go by the amount of amps used by the device or the size of wire running to the device? Is there a chart available somewhere that will show me what to use?

Yes, you go by the amp rating on the device you are running. And when you are wiring, you install a wire that's rated for that amp load. Then, install an inline fuse with that amp rating, close to the battery or terminal bus bar. This will protect the device and the wire. There's all kinds of charts and other reference info on the net, just do some searches under marine wiring, or DIY boat wiring.


And for the circuit breaker...I assume I would add up the max amount of amps to all devices combined and then choose a circuit breaker that is close, but above that amount??? Say for instance, all devices combined are 21 amps....would I go with a 30amp breaker? How about if all devices combined are 15 amps, but there is a chance that I may add another 5amp device in the future. Would it be a bad idea to use a 30amp breaker in this situation and should I just wait and add a larger breaker when I add the additional device?

You should only install a breaker if the wire is big enough to handle the load the breaker is rated for. So, if you're running, let's say an AWG 8, from the battery to your terminal bus bar, then, you should only install a breaker that matches the amp load for that wire. Then, each wire that branches off from that terminal block would have its own fuse, according to wire size and the amp draw of each device.
 
I'm planning to place my order this Thursday for everything I need to wire the boat, so I'm still trying to finalize my list of items. A switch panel is still something that is holding me up on a final decision. I posted a question about it earlier in this thread, but I'm still not sure what I should order. It seems that the switch panels I've been looking at already are fused, so I'm wondering about the need to run through a fuse block prior to the switch if this is the case. I understand that some devices won't need a switch and would need a fuse anyway.

I could use some suggestions on how to set up switches. Are switch panels available that do not have fuses in them? As with most aluminum boats, I'm sure, I don't have a whole lot of extra space for all of these wiring contraptions, so I'd like to keep this as compact as possible. I don't think I'll ever need to have more than 4 devices on switches. Is there something I'm overlooking? A switch panel seems nice, but is there an easier or better way to do things?

Right now, I'm thinking that I really only need switches for the bow/stern lights and the future installation of some sort of driving light. My fish finder will not need a switch, the crappie/flounder light has its own switch and the 12V socket for the Q-beam will not need a switch. So actually, I only need 2 switches at the moment, with the possibility of adding a third switched device in the future. Any good ideas for making this very simple? I know I need to be able to turn off the bow light when at anchor, so that's why I'm thinking I need separate switches to run the bow lights and stern light.....unless there is a way to set up a switch with multiple positions so that I can run them both off of the same switch. In that case, I would only need one switch at the present time.
 
I really can't recommend a switch panel because I don't have one, hopefully someone else will chime in on options for that. One thing to watch for is that the lighted switches on some panels may be on whenever power is going to the panel, which may be always. There are ways around that, but it depends on how the switch's light circuit is wired.

If you run a fused switch panel you don't need to run those devices thru a fuse block before the fuse at the switch. And you are right, you'll still need some sort of fuse for your devices that don't run thru the fused switch panel.

If you only need 2 or 3 switches it might be easier to just fabricate your own (un-fused) panel or box and install individual switches in that. Basically all you need is some sort of small box with a flat panel you can drill holes in to mount the switches. It's better to have some sort of waterproof enclosure for them, if possible. Some guys on here have made up panels like that, but I can't recall any specific posts. Edit: Here's some boxes that might work from Radio Shack

You don't need 2 separate switches for your nav/anchor light, what you'll want to get is an on/off/on DPDT (double-pole-double-throw) switch for that like this:
NavSwitchWiring.jpg

DPDT's are easier to wire than they look. For your other switches you probably need just an on/off SPST (single-pole-single-throw) type. There's lots of places to order marine switches. The toggle-style is usually easier to install than a rocker-switch because you just have to drill a hole, instead of cutting out a rectangle.
 
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