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CRAPPIE_SLAYER

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Jul 25, 2008
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Location
Conneaut Lake, PA
Hey everyone. Brand new to the site. I just bought a 1970's model 14' mirrocraft semi-v that i plan on doing a little refurbishing to. Seems like there is a wealth of knowledge here. Just wondered how good of an idea it is to tear the middle seat out of it so i can put in a full floor and some storage compartments/ jumper style seats. Have read mixed reviews on the consequences of taking the seat out. Thanks.
 
Welcome aboard!
Thanks for joining!

IS the seat used for structure or is it hung there? If it is used for structure, are you going to replace it with bracing to make it solid again? Post up an inside shot of your boat so we can see it.
 
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Welcome!

ST
 
The general consensus seems to be that if you replace the bench with structural support you will be ok. But it has to be thought out and done carefully. When I was doing mine I was discouraged HEAVILY on other sites aout removing the middle bench. Looking back, I wish I had removed it and made some other changes. I was worried about a great many things at the time like weight distribution, extra weight in itself, hull flexing, etc. None of which turned out to be any kind of an issue.
 
I removed the middle seat on my 14' alumacraft v-hull with no problems. I do have rod lockers/storage on each side that is tied into the other two benches, the floor and the old seat hangers from the seat I removed.
 
Still somewhat undecided on whether to remove the middle seat or not. Really like the idea of the rod lockers though. Do you just tie the ends into the other seats to support the hull?? No need to tie it into the hull itself?? Also not sure how much weight i want to add to the boat. Its rated fo 960lbs. I've been looking at a 2005 merc 15hp. 4-stroke. Want to add the floor and such, but don't want to add so much weight that i can't get it up on plane.
 
CRAPPIE_SLAYER said:
Still somewhat undecided on whether to remove the middle seat or not. Really like the idea of the rod lockers though. Do you just tie the ends into the other seats to support the hull?? No need to tie it into the hull itself?? Also not sure how much weight i want to add to the boat. Its rated fo 960lbs. I've been looking at a 2005 merc 15hp. 4-stroke. Want to add the floor and such, but don't want to add so much weight that i can't get it up on plane.

I tied into the ends of the other seats and the old metal supports the old seat set on. I have not had any trouble and I have had it out a lot. I went with really thin plywood on the rod lockers (1/4) inch since they are not used for walking or sitting on to save weight. My boat turned out very solid and very stable.
 
dedawg, Haha! names a dead giveaway huh. Definitly enjoy crappie fishing, although i just really got into it about 2 years ago. Did pretty good this spring, but still alot to learn. Will be even more to learn once i get out on the lake in a boat. Used to being stuck on the shore.
 
Well guys, I think I'm finally going to get some time to start on the boat this weekend. Think I'm going to start with repainting. Have a few questions regarding this. How far should i sand down the old paint? Do I have to go all the way down to bare aluminum, or can I get away with just scuffing up the old paint and priming/painting it. Looks to me like it was repainted once already. There is no leaks in the boat tat I can see, but do you seal the rivet heads somehow before painting to prevent future problems? What kind of surface prep is needed to make the paint adhere properly? Have read some stuff about people etching the surface with a 50/50 vinegar water mix, but others seem to have just used a self etching primer. Also, what kinds of paint hold up well on a boat? Would like to use spray cans if possible. Will this leave a smooth finish, or will I end up with alot of orangepeel?? Sorry for so many questions, just want to get it right the first time. Thanks in advance for the help. Hopefully I will get some before and after pictures posted soon.
 
If it has a decent coat of paint on it, scuff it & paint, no need for primer. If it has chips in it, featheredge them & prime them, then paint. I've painted a few cars & used to use a scuff-pad & comet for the scuffing process (use water for this process). Rinse good & let dry well. If you have a compressor, use a blow-gun to blow the water from the cracks & crevices. Spray bombs will work fine, spend a couple bucks & get one of the triggers that fits the can so your fingers don't tire from pressing the nozzle.

ST
 

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