TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
New guy here with question about a 1964 Evinrude Lark VI 40
- Thread starter LeeinOH
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
perchjerker
Well-known member
the spaghetti seal is like a length of o ring and it goes in a groove where the gear case is split in half
If your gear case is one piece then you don't have one
they don't usually leak, but its worth mentioning.
If your gear case is one piece then you don't have one
they don't usually leak, but its worth mentioning.
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
- Messages
- 3,721
- Reaction score
- 411
- Location
- Central Florida
- LOCATION
- Lake County, Central Florida
No spaghetti seal on an electric shift gearcase. No shift rod seal either.
If you are checking with a dealer just get all the seals for that unit.
Check in the gearcase housing itself for the fill and drain plug seals. They will normally stick in the housing.
If they truly are not there then that was probably your leak.
If you are checking with a dealer just get all the seals for that unit.
Check in the gearcase housing itself for the fill and drain plug seals. They will normally stick in the housing.
If they truly are not there then that was probably your leak.
Ordered a complete lower seal kit. I did scratch on the housing thinking the oil drain/level seals had stuck, but there were none. Ordered those as well. Could not get a complete water pump, so I ordered the impeller and I'll head to the local bearing supply house for the new upper seal on the housing. Then it's just a matter of getting it back together.
Any tricks for holding be rollers for the lower bearing in place while re-assembling. I'm thinking heavy grease or a rubber band. Slide the bearing portions together then cut and remove the rubber band. I recovered all the rollers.
Any tricks for holding be rollers for the lower bearing in place while re-assembling. I'm thinking heavy grease or a rubber band. Slide the bearing portions together then cut and remove the rubber band. I recovered all the rollers.
perchjerker
Well-known member
I have used grease to hold roller bearings in a 2 stroke crankshaft job. Worked fine
Thank you perchjerker. If the rest of the parts come in tomorrow I can get the lower back together and reinstalled. I'll definitely try the grease on the roller bearings first.
Isn't there supposed to be a gasket under the lower wear plate on the water pump???? There was't one when I disassembled.
Isn't there supposed to be a gasket under the lower wear plate on the water pump???? There was't one when I disassembled.
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
- Messages
- 3,721
- Reaction score
- 411
- Location
- Central Florida
- LOCATION
- Lake County, Central Florida
On some engines gaskets were present and others not. Not really needed. If you are worried at all use some Adhesive M on the bottom of the housing. All you are doing is sealing out air. Once the pump primes on that style gearcase the prop thrust suppies plenty of water.
When you tank test however make sure your static water level is several inches above the gearcase to exhaust housing split line. This will insure the pump is under water and primes easily.
When you tank test however make sure your static water level is several inches above the gearcase to exhaust housing split line. This will insure the pump is under water and primes easily.
Found explosion drawings on marineengine.com. The 40 HP does NOT use a lower or center gasket while the 75 HP DOES.
Seems odd, but OK :mrgreen:
Put the extension and extension adapter (with new o-rings) back on. Thinking I should replace the two lower water pump seals even though they do not appear bad. Don't want to have to take the motor apart again for a while.
Also, ordered upper and lower water pump seals from Marineengine.com. The seals from the bearing shop looked kinda whimpy. Again, I don't want to have to do this again if I can help it.
Seems odd, but OK :mrgreen:
Put the extension and extension adapter (with new o-rings) back on. Thinking I should replace the two lower water pump seals even though they do not appear bad. Don't want to have to take the motor apart again for a while.
Also, ordered upper and lower water pump seals from Marineengine.com. The seals from the bearing shop looked kinda whimpy. Again, I don't want to have to do this again if I can help it.
- Joined
- May 15, 2010
- Messages
- 3,721
- Reaction score
- 411
- Location
- Central Florida
- LOCATION
- Lake County, Central Florida
Thats great! You've been the perfect person for us to work with. Willing to get what is necessary and do the job correctly. Kudos to you!
Now we need to hear about it running and maybe a pic or ten.
Now we need to hear about it running and maybe a pic or ten.
I'm planning on getting her in the water in a few weeks. Got the boat off of the trailer so I could go weigh it yesterday. Made new bunks and will carpet them today. After that comes the trailer plate, state watercraft sticker and a battery, then test the motor in a can. After that, she gets put in the lake :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
