OLD 1978 sears jon boat -

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kev333d

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Aug 8, 2008
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Toms River, NJ
OLD 1978 sears jon boat - I am trying to structurally "sure" it up, I see everyone adds a floor to make it a bass boat, and pretty much thats what I want to do. So the main problem with the boat that I have is its has a few dents and dings, and the "ribs" or cross-members are coming off, how do I re-attach them or replace them. I can take photos if it helps, but do remove the rivets and re-do them? Will I be making holes, that I shouldn't be making in the bottom?
 
:WELCOME: man!

Thanks for joining!

Nice looking boat. A floor will be perfect and spacious! Are you planning all electric or gas too? What kind of fishing do you do? What kind of waters?

I sound like a nagging wife :LOL2:


The experts will chime in soon.

Jim
 
Well, thank you. And its ok to ask, I live right by a salt/fresh water river. Just want to make it a nice boat, if that works I'll take toward the bay and fish for striped bass.

I'm gonna go gas and get a 5hp outboard, thats what the boat is rated for, but I see bigger engines are put are on them.
 
you could get it welded,or Get yourself some closed-end blind rivets and start replacing any that are missing,they install with a regular poprivet gun,or Use S.S. TRUSS HEAD phillips screws with flat washer and nylon locking nut on the back side. Drop of 5200 sealant around the screw head before inserting so that it squishes thru jus' a bit when ya push the screw in. Wipe of exterior with lacquer thinner soon as you tighten the screw. Use #10-24 X 1/2" size screw and drill out rivet with 3/16" drill bit.
 
Thanks , I actually saw your other post on same topic. The nut and bolt should be greased in 5200?

Also, when I start to brace the flooring in place, that should make the boat more stable, right? It seems pretty flimsy, I am repairing the cross-members, but nothing goes up the side of the boat(walls), I should put some bracing there right? and attach it with the nut and bolt method?

Any certain bolts and nuts you found work best?
 
kev333d said:
Thanks , I actually saw your other post on same topic. The nut and bolt should be greased in 5200?

Also, when I start to brace the flooring in place, that should make the boat more stable, right? It seems pretty flimsy, I am repairing the cross-members, but nothing goes up the side of the boat(walls), I should put some bracing there right? and attach it with the nut and bolt method?

Any certain bolts and nuts you found work best?

I keep seeing reference to this 5200 grease sealant stuff, what is it and where to get it ?
 
Its a 3M product, and its used to seal marine grade anything, I am not praising it all, as I have never used it, just know about it. It dry gummy, so there is some flex to it, I should be using it to repair each of these rivets, unless somebody gets back to me and says not to. The stuff looks strong.




https://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en00...marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html


This is what i found, but it looks like you can find it in Lowes, WalMart PepBoys
 
as far as bracing go and look at some of the other modes they usally use aluminum and rivets or they use hangers and screws i wouldnt use bolts through the side of the boat for bracing
 
dedawg1149 said:
i got mine at walmart it is a flexible permanent sealent

I went to the local walmart at the Marine session and could not find it, I wonder what department this is to be at, but also walmart keep moving things around is so hard to find anything....
 
it is called 3 m 5200 takes.it takes 7 day to cure and 2 day to tack over.here is a pic .it is usally were the boat care stuff is
 

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I saw some of the 5200 in our local Home Depot. When that stuff cures, it's unbelievably strong... A buddy of mine decided to redo his boat, and the previous owner used it as extra reinforcement behind some angle iron for bracing... needless to say, he wasn't able to get it off without a lot of elbow work. His boat never leaked around the nuts/bolts where he replaced rivets with it either.
 
I got the same boat in a 10 foot version.I'm going to put either a 3.5 or 5hp briggs n stratton outboard on it.The boat is so weak and flimsy that I am scared it may collapse the transom or fold the hull in half.I can get hit by a small wake and watch the hull flex to conform with the waves.Makes for nervous boating.Oh,the reason for the Briggs motor is because 2 strokes have been banned from our lakes. :(
 
ben2go said:
I got the same boat in a 10 foot version.I'm going to put either a 3.5 or 5hp briggs n stratton outboard on it.The boat is so weak and flimsy that I am scared it may collapse the transom or fold the hull in half.I can get hit by a small wake and watch the hull flex to conform with the waves.Makes for nervous boating.Oh,the reason for the Briggs motor is because 2 strokes have been banned from our lakes. :(

I don't know what kind of boat it is, but I must agree, the first jon boat I looked at was like that, made of such light metal that you could flex with your hands, I don't know how can anybody go in deep waters with such a thing...

very scary...
 
SVNET said:
ben2go said:
I got the same boat in a 10 foot version.I'm going to put either a 3.5 or 5hp briggs n stratton outboard on it.The boat is so weak and flimsy that I am scared it may collapse the transom or fold the hull in half.I can get hit by a small wake and watch the hull flex to conform with the waves.Makes for nervous boating.Oh,the reason for the Briggs motor is because 2 strokes have been banned from our lakes. :(

I don't know what kind of boat it is, but I must agree, the first jon boat I looked at was like that, made of such light metal that you could flex with your hands, I don't know how can anybody go in deep waters with such a thing...

very scary...

I have been working on patterns today to rebuild the inner supports and seats on mine.I am going to have a small 36 inch deck on the front.The forward half,under the deck, will have flotation foam in it and the back half will have a small sealed hatch with storage.The rear will have a 12 inch well between the transom and rear seat.The rear seat will be built a little bigger and have flotation foam in it.My plan is to use 1/16th inch aluminum C channel for the bracing and framing and 1/8th inch sheet aluminum for the deck and seats.I try to do a write up with pics when I do it.
 

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