Open 16ft starcraft SS with tiller?

[earl60446]

Gonefishin

If I were you and had to replace the transom on that boat and assuming it is now a short shaft transom, I would consider changing it to a long shaft transom. Then I would lose the splashwell and put braces to the transom. Be a great tiller boat then and you would have lots of room and no worries about a low transom.
Tim

I am looking into making the transom length 25-26 inches. Its currently 21". I did remove the splashwell and I dont intend to put it back in, but thats not certain yet.

If it is already 21 inches, you may want to leave it that length. 25 inches is a extra long shaft, might be hard to find. A short shaft is 15 inches.
Tim

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Gonefishin

If I were you and had to replace the transom on that boat and assuming it is now a short shaft transom, I would consider changing it to a long shaft transom. Then I would lose the splashwell and put braces to the transom. Be a great tiller boat then and you would have lots of room and no worries about a low transom.
Tim

I am looking into making the transom length 25-26 inches. Its currently 21". I did remove the splashwell and I dont intend to put it back in, but thats not certain yet.

If it is already 21 inches, you may want to leave it that length. 25 inches is a extra long shaft, might be hard to find. A short shaft is 15 inches.
Tim

Without the splash well I may want that added length to the transom. It will be something to look into on the motor side though. thanks for the tip.

 

[1lhorn]

There are also two types of polystyrene foam sold for home insulation - extruded and expanded. Only extruded is closed cell,

Not true. From Wiki:

"Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is a rigid and tough, closed-cell foam."

Extruded is however more resistant to absorbing water:
"Extruded polystyrene foam...
Water vapour diffusion resistance (μ) of XPS is around 80–250 and so makes it more suitable to wetter environments than EPS."

"Water absorption of polystyrene foams
Although it is a closed-cell foam, both expanded and extruded polystyrene are not entirely waterproof or vaporproof.[25] In expanded polystyrene there are interstitial gaps between the expanded closed-cell pellets that form an open network of channels between the bonded pellets, and this network of gaps can become filled with liquid water. If the water freezes into ice, it expands and can cause polystyrene pellets to break off from the foam. Extruded polystyrene is also permeable by water molecules and can not be considered a vapor barrier."

"Waterlogging commonly occurs over a long period of time in polystyrene foams that are constantly exposed to high humidity or are continuously immersed in water, such as in hot tub covers, in floating docks, as supplemental flotation under boat seats, and for below-grade exterior building insulation constantly exposed to groundwater."

HD and Lowe's that I've checked in my area (northern california) do not seem to carry pink or blue XPS. They only carry white EPS with a foil barrier on one side. Both stores carry this same item called "R Tech." I can only assume that prolong exposure to the pink or blue foam can cause impotence in the rare and majestic white tail tit mouse so naturally it wouldn't be available to us with that risk.

While I believe that prolonged exposure to water can waterlog EPS, I know the EPS in my nearly 20 year old boat is still bone dry. So because I can't get blue or pink, I"m going with white and will put the foil lined side face down.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Got some more braces off and cleaned up.

 

[ericman]

I agree about the transom height, 25" is reserved for the likes of sailboat kicker motors (under 15 hp) and very large boats (over 150 hp). To go 25" you'd almost for certain have to buy a 21" and then get a conversion kit which might be another $700.

Re-visit the pictures I posted of basically the same exact boat that you have, the one with the 25 hp Suzuki on it. I made that transom taller throughout most of the width of the boat with just enough of a gap where the transom height is only 22" with just enough room for the motor to go through its whole range of motion left to right up and down. It works perfect. UNLESS you are a really large man or plan on putting a really heavy motor on the back, taking in water will not be an issue. A newer (1995 or newer) tiller in the 30 - 50 hp range will be more than enough horsepower AND will probably have a long enough tiller handle to allow you to put your seat far enough forward so you are not putting your weight at the very back of the boat. Your boat is possibly rated for up to 85 hp. The splashwell was a necessity as an 85 hp motor can weigh over 300 pounds. A big 40 might only weigh 160.

Another thing to consider. If money is no object and you do build a 25" transom, a standard seat height might make reaching the tiller handle a bit awkward as it might seem high. Just my 2 cents.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I agree about the transom height, 25" is reserved for the likes of sailboat kicker motors (under 15 hp) and very large boats (over 150 hp). To go 25" you'd almost for certain have to buy a 21" and then get a conversion kit which might be another $700.

Re-visit the pictures I posted of basically the same exact boat that you have, the one with the 25 hp Suzuki on it. I made that transom taller throughout most of the width of the boat with just enough of a gap where the transom height is only 22" with just enough room for the motor to go through its whole range of motion left to right up and down. It works perfect. UNLESS you are a really large man or plan on putting a really heavy motor on the back, taking in water will not be an issue. A newer (1995 or newer) tiller in the 30 - 50 hp range will be more than enough horsepower AND will probably have a long enough tiller handle to allow you to put your seat far enough forward so you are not putting your weight at the very back of the boat. Your boat is possibly rated for up to 85 hp. The splashwell was a necessity as an 85 hp motor can weigh over 300 pounds. A big 40 might only weigh 160.

Another thing to consider. If money is no object and you do build a 25" transom, a standard seat height might make reaching the tiller handle a bit awkward as it might seem high. Just my 2 cents.

Those are good points, I didnt think about the 25 lenght and motor sizes. Im keeping it 21 and like you did on yours, maybe make the transom higher on the sides where the motor can still sits right and can turn.

Thanks for the tips guys.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

painted some transom support pieces. Thats the color the hull should be when done.

 

[onthewater102]

I don't know where you're located, but I have a 50hp Evinrude with the throttle controls that is in top shape that I bought for a project the wife will never let me get to - I've got it on craigslist locally in Western CT. I've got it priced to move if it interests you.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I don't know where you're located, but I have a 50hp Evinrude with the throttle controls that is in top shape that I bought for a project the wife will never let me get to - I've got it on craigslist locally in Western CT. I've got it priced to move if it interests you.

Down in Ga, But thanks, Im a ways off from getting a motor at this point. Dont even have room to store a free one if it was dropped off in the drive way.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Got the transom braces back in with solid rivets. Used 2 pop rivets on the bottom knee brace though. Should hold fine. Globbered all of them up with 5200 sealer. That stuff is some messy crap. Next on the list is gluvit on all the inside hull rivets and putting the floor Z braces back in the center of the hull.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Had to fix two more leaks. I had the left one marked but forgot about it messing with the knee brace stuff. The right one I thought I had patched good but was wrong. Goobered up 5200 on pop rivets since they wouldnt be structural at all and popped them in. (red circles.)

I gotta stop messing with the yellow circles and Id be ggetting a lot more done.

 

[fool4fish1226]

Coming along nicely - keep up the good work :beer:

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Appreciate it fool4fish!

The first coat of glovit is down!!! Big step since after this comes the transom and deck. (in that order). Ill put a second coat of glovit down tomorrow, then weather is sposed to be bad saturday. Sunday Ill be putting together a duck blind with a friend I made here hunting last year. Ill put pics up after the blind. Itll just be the framing though. Maybe Ill paint before the wood work since i already have the paint stuff though.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Thinking about painting before the wood work now to keep it lighter for the flip. I did put some support down over the rib ends to give the new deck something sold to grab hold of. All the rib ends already had multiple holes from previous redo's.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

So today I picked up (2) 2x4x12 rough cut cedar boards to replace the bunks. Then I double guess if its the right kind of cedar. Any opinions on this? I only need them 10' long. I've read some say it dries and cracks fast, others I read say you need red cedar? I don't know. They weren't that much so I dont have to use them.

Also picked up I sheet of ACX ply to maybe get the transom wood figured out. Ill be painting the boat first, but I figure this will give me time to get it cut and sealed while the paint is drying anyway.

Ordered the large flange rivets also. went with the 3/16th's with the 1" grip.

 

[CMOS]

Nicely done. Looking forward to watching this thread.


CMOS

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Made a cardboard piece fit then cut some wood today. Still need to do all the rest though, got two pieces that fit in there.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Just went beast mode. Couldnt wait for the friend to get here so another one man operation. Leverage is the key and only pulled one hamstring . Momma went shopping and the girls were napping. Boats flipped and ready for some rivet stripping, washing and painting!

 

[onthewater102]

I take it you tested the leaks again to make sure the patches fixed them? Looks like you're going to have one awesome boat on your hands when you're done - those longitudinal braces are going to stiffen that rig up nicely.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I take it you tested the leaks again to make sure the patches fixed them? Looks like you're going to have one awesome boat on your hands when you're done - those longitudinal braces are going to stiffen that rig up nicely.

Ya I redid the leak test. All known leaks are sealed at this point. Im hoping there arent anymore but so far they havnt really been too difficult to take care of.

Going to look at a donor boat tomorrow with an older 65 merc on it. If I can sell the trailer and dump the boat, the motor will be free. Condition and if it runs or will run is another story. Might not go with the tiller just yet.