Painting a jon boat

[PSG-1]

I'm not sure what VHT is, but if it's anything similar to Interlux's Interprotect 2-part epoxy primer, that's what you want to use.

A very light coat of ZC primer just before the VHT or Interprotect primer, will assure the best adhesion.

As for number of coats, I would recommend at least 2-3, especially if you're around oyster beds. Having operated and kept boats in this type of environment for the last 30 years, I can tell you all about the importance of maintaining bottom paint and galvanic protection.

 

[scoobeb]

Ok i have an issue,i have sanded and sanded the area of pitting and i'm getting scared that i will eat a hole through it.I trailer my boat in and out of the water,it never stays in the water.The question i have is what can i do to the pits that are left,i got it down way better then it was?I just need it to last a yr or so.If i put zinc chromate over it for a primer and paint it how long will it last if i'm just trailering it.

I don't know what else to do.I guess i can just keep sanding but i'm getting a bit scared because they are not coming completely out.I need help please.

 

[SumDumGuy]

hit it with high-build primer, sand/feather and paint.

 

[scoobeb]

Will it last that way for a while.I'm just thinking of leaving it the way it is.I just don't feel like doing all this work to a boat i'm only keeping lees then a yr.So here is what i need to know,if i just leave everything as is and rem i trailer my boat in and out of saltwater,how long will it last is really what i need to know?Thanks.I do wash my boat motor and trailer down with freshwatwer to after every use.

 

[scoobeb]

Ok i went to my local marina i know well,they said just left undone with no zc or paint and bare metal it will easily last a few yrs,his idea was put a zinc on the back of it and when it's in the water it won't effect the aluminum ever again,does this sound right?If this is the case then i can just fill the remaining light pits with 5200,sand it then prime and paint.

 

[scoobeb]

Well here is what i'm going to do,just sand the whole boat to scuff it up a bit(exsisting paint) then do all the steps in between of course then i'm going to smear 5200 fast cure over the whole pitted area,let it harden then just sand that area good,then prime it with ZC and then put my spray can rustoleum on it and hope for the best,i don't think i went to deep on the sand,I would think it would take alot to sand a hole through .064 guage aluminum with 100/220 grit sandpaper.

I'm banging on the bottom of the boat and it still seems strong.

 

[scoobeb]

Here is one big question,when i'm going to apply the 5200 it says don't use any chemicals to clean the area,so how do i apply it without cleaning the area and before i paint i'm going to a 50/50 vinegar and water to clean and etch it,what steps do i need to do in order to asure the 5200 will stay in place?

 

[scoobeb]

Here is 3 things that i have on hand,the only one that is flexible is the 5200 the others dry like steel but are not flexible.They are all made for metal and can be sanded and painted,so here we go what is my best long term option?I'm going to get a nice size zinc plate at my local marina which i hope will stop any further damage.I just went out and banged on the aluminum and it seems as strong as before i started so i probally didn't take as much metal as i thought.Here are the pics.

 

[scoobeb]

All my main concern would be i know that aluminum boats flex alot so that is my issue,but if any of these is the best for what i'm doing i would love to know asap as i want to wake up in the morning and getter done.I just need a little guidance,lol.

 

[scoobeb]

Ok here is what i'm going to do,it's fishing season down here in fl and i don't want to waste anymore time not being in the water.I can't see this boat and the pitting not making it through this spring.Iv'e been waiting to fish for close to a yr now and i have alot of work on my hand here and i rather do it near spring time when i fish less do to the heat.I'm just going to leave everything as is and come springtime i will have more then enough time on my hands and then i will do it 100% right if i decide i want to keep it.If not i will unload it off my hands for a really good price.There really is nothing wrong with it that doesn't usually happen to aluminum boats.

Man i tell you this seems to be a very common problem with aluminum jon boats,i saw some that make mine look like my boat has no issues,lol,so thats my plan,just go fishing for 5 or 6mths and take the stress of trying to make this right out of my mind as of now so i can gather my thoughts and like i said to redo the whole boat or just buy a new bigger boat.If i do sell it i think $300-$500 is way more then a fair deal,this boat which is the same as a lowe is over $1300 brand new all over my area,i couldn't believe it,but if you want the lighter of the 2 1436 which is a lake jon it's only like $800 but it's a way lighter guage aluminum.I really want to step up to a either 1442 g3 or 1542 alumacraft,i really like the g3 it has 21"sides,that is very high for a smaller jon boat and they are an extremely strog jon boat,a new one is only $1500,the g31442 that is.Thanks for all the help and i will be back with this issue in the spring,lol.Now it's time to teat into some trout,reds and snook. :mrgreen:

 

[PSG-1]

To answer your question, in a nutshell, if you keep the bottom paint in good condition, and maintain your zinc anode, a boat will last for quite a while, even when left in saltwater. I know because mine sits in the water almost year-round.

However, I do recommend a haul-out at least once every 2-3 months, just to check the condition of the paint, make sure there's no marine growth, check the zinc, flush the engine, fog everything under the cowling with Sea-Foam, Boeshield, or Hilco Lube, and change lower unit oil. And at least once a year, whether you think it needs it or not, change the water pump impeller (or if you do a lot of dredging like I do, you may need to replace the housing as well!) Anyhow, if you follow this SOP, your boat and motor will last for a long time with no ill effects.

 

[scoobeb]

Well my biggest thing is how long would this boat last witout an anode,just curious,i'm not going to paint till the summer.I really don't like putting holes in the transom but if i have to i will.Were would be the best place for the anode?When i put it on do i put 5200 behind it to seal it from water coming in or just in the bolt holes and thats it?Also will the anode stop any further pitting completely?I trailer my boat everytime,it never sits in the water except for when i fish,when i get home i flush everything everytime with freshwater.The boat,motor and trailer gets a good soaking in freshwater.

I'm leaving the area thats pitting bare aluminum for now thats why i'm hoping the anode will take care of the pitting for now.If i just leave it the way it is with doing nothing my buddy who works at a marina said it will hold up for a few yrs.Thats with doing nothing as long as the boats trailered he said and washed down good after every use.

 

[PSG-1]

It is hard to say how long it will last without an anode, this depends on many factors, such as bottom paint condition, the degree of marine growth, and the degree of galvanic corrosion in that particular area (some areas are more 'hot' than others, and it has nothing to do with stray shore power, it's naturally occurring)

As for mounting, only seal up the bolts, don't secure the anode to the hull with 5200.

If you're hauling out every time, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, anode or not. But the anode will slow down the electrolysis that occurs when the boat is in the water.

 

[scoobeb]

So the pitting shouldn't get any worse as long as i'm pulling the boat in and out after every use?I just need it to last till summer till i decide what i want to do with it,as long as it holds up till then i will just leave it as is.