Plywood covering other than carpet

[richg99]

Never did it myself, but any carpet store should know what adhesive to use to get vinyl to stick to metal.

 

[LDUBS]

Hey guys, question.
So Iam using aluminum sheet .100 5052 for my cockpit floor. To get carpet or vinyl to stick to it. Is the spray adhesive enough.

Really want vinyl but Iam afraid it will have a problem sticking. Because of the rivets.

To see the little mounds under the vinyl doesn’t bother me. I just wanna know if the vinyl will stay stuck because of them. What do y’all think


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On my current as well as previous boat, the vinyl was applied to the flooring material (ply) before it was screwed/riveted down. In other words rivet and screw heads are seen on top of the vinyl.

 

[gatorglenn]

Thanks guys, I have seen the screws and rivets on the outside. But was hoping to hide them underneath.


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[onthewater102]

Unfortunately they move and flex a bit, which if under the vinyl would probably cause it to bubble up in the area of the fastener, hence the pro installs having the flooring applied first then the fasteners added.

 

[richg99]

I ran my screws ( into plywood) from the top. I used those dressing washer to add width so the screws wouldn't cut through the vinyl.

 

[DaleH]

Really want vinyl but Iam afraid it will have a problem sticking. Because of the rivets.

With that thickness alloy, you would have been no problems using counter-sunk ‘V’ flathead rivets! Then you won’t see anything or any imprint in the vinyl. That is what I would do, if I were in your position.

Vinyl rules! But I gotta be honest & admit that I like that newer ‘foam’ stuff like SeaDek and other brands, even the Rube Goldberg exercise mat as an alternative. I just don’t like carpet, but I am biased.

Now let’s see how good the foam looks in 20-years ... and maybe I will switch away from marine vinyl, haha!

 

[DaleH]

On my current as well as previous boat, the vinyl was applied to the flooring material (ply) before it was screwed/riveted down. In other words rivet and screw heads are seen on top of the vinyl.

In my vinyl floor, which is surrounded by bulkheads all around the perimeter, the vinyl was lain down for first, then the vertical tin pieces secured on top, so you see no bumps or anything. But if you need to do it in a few places, used 2 stainless steel finish washers on top of each other, where one holds the material, and the other spins, so it doesn’t tear at the material. See link below.

Link: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37903&hilit=Finish+washer

 

[richg99]

Dale...why didn't you post that suggestion two years ago! Ha Ha

 

[gatorglenn]

Ok Dale has the idea Iam looking for. But thanks to you all.
Sorry for the highjack. Counter sunk V rivets is what I’ll do. Now just where to find them. Thanks guys.


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[onthewater102]

https://www.rivetsonline.com/open-end-blind-rivets/aluminum-rivets-steel-mandrel#1

 

[gatorglenn]

https://www.rivetsonline.com/open-end-blind-rivets/aluminum-rivets-steel-mandrel#1

Thanks


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[onthewater102]

Now that I've got my Tracker III project underway I'm seriously thinking about using this vinyl instead of painting the surfaces. Has anyone that has it also had a boat with carpet? Curious which is cooler to the touch in the sun, I don't want my dog getting his pads burned when he comes along with me. I'm imagining vinyl might actually be the coolest option.

Also, has anyone tried mounting vinyl directly to aluminum? I've got aluminum decks going into this one.

Thanks to all

 

[Tinny Fleet]

This vinyl came as OEM on a 1989 StarCraft I bought new, and which has spent three years outside in the Florida sun and rain (the rest has been indoors).
Almost 30 years later the vinyl is still pretty much perfect, although the same cannot be said for the plywood floor it covers which is kind of soft in spots....
This is what I plan to use on my next project...

 

[ppine]

A lot of quality boats use marine grade vinyl that will resist UV light. It is possible to rip it though.

 

[richg99]

Apparently, Ranger bass boats now come with an option of vinyl or carpet. A LOT of guys have chosen the vinyl and are happy. Suggest you visit some Ranger sites to get first-hand input.

I used vinyl (LINK BELOW) over plywood and couldn't be happier. Any carpet/wallpaper store should help regarding putting it over aluminum. Other than you must avoid any protrusions (to keep from them poking through) I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276179|2276198|2276202&id=23740

 

[onthewater102]

I've got to come to a decision before I start fastening down my decking. If I go vinyl then I've got to get that installed onto the decking first so the rivets go through the vinyl rather than under it. I've got enough work ahead to keep me busy for a while while i decide.

For me it comes down to two decisions points - the dog first, so if vinyl is a lot cooler then it's what i'm going with - second, which would be easier to refurbish in the future, I think the vinyl will outlast the textured paint but it's more time consuming to apply.

 

[DaleH]

If I go vinyl then I've got to get that installed onto the decking first so the rivets go through the vinyl rather than under it.

I'd secure the tin decking with flathead counter-sunk rivets, add bedding to the heads as may be needed, and then would apply the vinyl.

On boats where you can temporarily lift up the side structures to put vinyl under there ... so that. A simple bead of some poly-goop around the perimeter keeps the floor totally waterproof.

On floors where one can't lift up or get it under the adjoining structures, I opine coming up the sides of the structure by a good inch or so with the vinyl and then adhering a simple vinyl, threshold-type trim abutting the floor, to finish off the floor.

 

[onthewater102]

I wish - but a few of my deck surfaces will be only .03125" thick (anything with direct foam support) and I don't think it's a thick enough material for a countersunk rivet to hold onto long term.