Preferred mounting hardware for scotty mounts

[slizzy]

Hey there,

whats everyones preference for installing the scotty side/deck mount and flush mount ? screws and nuts or a rivet ? expanding rivet?

I got a 1236 alumacraft ... looking to install a anchor lock on the bow and stern ... looking for a clean finish...

Im thinking to do a flush mount on the back corner brace and a side mount on the bow gunnel if possible

 

[fishmonger]

Where ever possible I use stainless machine screws or bolts with flat washers and nylon locking nuts. I also insert rubber washers if the flat washers come in contact with the aluminum.

 

[weweber3]

Where ever possible I use stainless machine screws or bolts with flat washers and nylon locking nuts. I also insert rubber washers if the flat washers come in contact with the aluminum.

That nylon washer covers the head of the screw/bolt, but what about the threads or post of the screw/bolt... that SS is still touching the aluminum... not enough to matter?

 

[DaleH]

That nylon washer covers the head of the screw/bolt, but what about the threads or post of the screw/bolt... that SS is still touching the aluminum... not enough to matter?

You'd go years without issues, but if it was a boat to be used in the salt, just cover the threaded portion w/ adhesive-lined heatshrink or even electrical tape. Anything to insulate them.

FWIW I just helped a friend survey a beautiful 4-yr old tin 18' Crestliner and SS snaps were all around the perimeter above the rubrail on the 'painted' hull every 8 inches. Around a few of them ... you guessed it ... the otherwise beautiful paint is bubbling and blistering!

Classic galvanic corrosion due to the electric potential of dissimilar metals.

 

[weweber3]

That nylon washer covers the head of the screw/bolt, but what about the threads or post of the screw/bolt... that SS is still touching the aluminum... not enough to matter?

You'd go years without issues, but if it was a boat to be used in the salt, just cover the threaded portion w/ adhesive-lined heatshrink or even electrical tape. Anything to insulate them.

FWIW I just helped a friend survey a beautiful 4-yr old tin 18' Crestliner and SS snaps were all around the perimeter above the rubrail on the 'painted' hull every 8 inches. Around a few of them ... you guessed it ... the otherwise beautiful paint is bubbling and blistering!

Classic galvanic corrosion due to the electric potential of dissimilar metals.

So if I were to go Full OCD... nylon washer on the bolt/screw, nylon washer on the nut and electric tape on the threads.

Half OCD... nylon washer on bolt/screw and the nut.

 

[slizzy]

What about for seat mounts where I cannot access the underside of screw to use a nut? Would a self tapping stainless steel screw be ok or would I want to use some type of adhesive around the mount as well?

 

[rootbeer]

What about for seat mounts where I cannot access the underside of screw to use a nut? Would a self tapping stainless steel screw be ok or would I want to use some type of adhesive around the mount as well?

some people use aluminum threaded inserts such as rivnuts, nutserts, plusnuts etc. These expand below the metal and provide a threaded hole that you can use a bolt in, like an anchor in drywall. Some people use self tapping sheet metal screws and results vary. From what I have read from others, the sheet metal screws work better if the force is perpindicular to the screw and that with the leverage placed on a seat back can cause the screws to pull out, but experiences vary.

 

[slizzy]

Thanks for the reply ...

I was told I could use regular screws with an adhesive Used as well on the mount and it would be ok ... I was told this by a reputable fishing store owner ... I can't remember the adhesive he told me to use though ...