Quality 100AH Lithium LiFeP04 battery for less than $200

[thill]

Amazon.com

$192 with a 10% instant coupon = $173 plus free 2-day shipping for Prime Members.

That's hard to beat. I currently am running three TimeUSB batteries and they have been flawless.

Looks like they are selling out fast.

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[thill]

What is that blurb about earning from qualifying purchases? Must be a Tinboats.net thing.

 

[Tin Man]

Great price! If you live in cold climate....just be cautious...it has no low temp BMS.

 

[LDUBS]

What is that blurb about earning from qualifying purchases? Must be a Tinboats.net thing.

The site earned a small amount as an Amazon affiliate prior to the change in ownership. I assume that is still in place.

 

[flatheadsteve]

The prices on lifepo4 is now cheaper than agms. I'm waiting for them to all start offering dual purpose batteries that are OK to be charged by an outboard and ill be buying 2 more for starting and house use. That would save me another 60ish lbs bringing the total savings from switching to lifepo4 up to around 180lbs.

 

[AlanT]

The prices on lifepo4 is now cheaper than agms. I'm waiting for them to all start offering dual purpose batteries that are OK to be charged by an outboard and ill be buying 2 more for starting and house use. That would save me another 60ish lbs bringing the total savings from switching to lifepo4 up to around 180lbs.

I'm guessing the BMS for cranking batteries is significantly different. The cranking or dual purpose LifePO4 batteries are still high in price.

 

[Azdesert]

I have seen some reviews on that battery and they were not glowing. Great price!

 

[thill]

Really? Before I bought mine, I watched a half dozen reviews on the PRO version, and all of them were good. One guy was trying to nit-pick, but it wasn't that the battery was bad, it was just not as good as the $1,500 batteries he was comparing them to. Let's face it - it's not a Dakota! But it costs only a fraction of the cost, too.

There was a 95AH version that got ho-hum reviews. One guy said they may even have recycled cells in those.

The 100AH PRO is 100% new components with a newly updated BMS. Not sure if it has a low-temp feature in the new BMS or not. To be safe, I would warm them up to over 32 degrees before trying to charge.

To run your trolling motor, fish finder, Livescope, lights and an inverter as backup power- these things have been awesome for me. Super happy, and I paid a lot more than $173

 

[Tin Man]

The prices on lifepo4 is now cheaper than agms. I'm waiting for them to all start offering dual purpose batteries that are OK to be charged by an outboard and ill be buying 2 more for starting and house use. That would save me another 60ish lbs bringing the total savings from switching to lifepo4 up to around 180lbs.

The prices on lifepo4 is now cheaper than agms. I'm waiting for them to all start offering dual purpose batteries that are OK to be charged by an outboard and ill be buying 2 more for starting and house use. That would save me another 60ish lbs bringing the total savings from switching to lifepo4 up to around 180lbs.

Just did a bunch of research on starting batteries for my new '23 Mercury 60hp 4 stroke. According to both Mercury Marine customer service, as well as my local Mercury dealer.....ONLY wet cell LA starting/cranking batts are acceptable for motor starting. The stators are not designed to charge DC, Lithium or AGM batts. So I went with the largest RC I could get in a group 27 marine starting battery.
Not sure if DP, AGM, Lithium will ever be allowed as a starting battery. I, also, would like to save weight at the stern where my starting batt is located! I did reduce bow weight by approx. 84# when I went with two LiTime 12V/100amp Trolling Motor edition LiFePO batts VS two GRP 31 DC batts.

 

[flatheadsteve]

Just did a bunch of research on starting batteries for my new '23 Mercury 60hp 4 stroke. According to both Mercury Marine customer service, as well as my local Mercury dealer.....ONLY wet cell LA starting/cranking batts are acceptable for motor starting. The stators are not designed to charge DC, Lithium or AGM batts. So I went with the largest RC I could get in a group 27 marine starting battery.
Not sure if DP, AGM, Lithium will ever be allowed as a starting battery. I, also, would like to save weight at the stern where my starting batt is located! I did reduce bow weight by approx. 84# when I went with two LiTime 12V/100amp Trolling Motor edition LiFePO batts VS two GRP 31 DC batts.

Interesting I ran a agm dual purpose on my tohatsu 20hp for several years untill I sold the boat. I always topped of on shore with a charger and had the same battery for the 5 yrs I had that setup. Ignorance is bliss I suppose.

 

[Azdesert]

Interesting I ran a agm dual purpose on my tohatsu 20hp for several years untill I sold the boat. I always topped of on shore with a charger and had the same battery for the 5 yrs I had that setup. Ignorance is bliss I suppose.

Interesting is right, I was planning on a dual purpose for my start battery. Seeing as you used it for five years without issue I may still go that route. I really need the weight savings.

Did Merrcury say if the stator set-up would harm the battery or the Motor charging circuit? If it's the battery I think I'll roll the dice.

I forget the name of the guy that did one of the reviews I saw, but he is big into solar and gets all excited about cutting into a new battery. I recall that it did not have a cold temp cut-off and the BMS was not as good as some others that were in the same cost range. They have a 98 amp hour and he cut into that one too and stated he thought the cells were recycled and being sold as new so that turned me off. But that is a different Battery then 100 aph.

 

[MrGiggles]

Interesting is right, I was planning on a dual purpose for my start battery. Seeing as you used it for five years without issue I may still go that route. I really need the weight savings.

Did Merrcury say if the stator set-up would harm the battery or the Motor charging circuit? If it's the battery I think I'll roll the dice.

I forget the name of the guy that did one of the reviews I saw, but he is big into solar and gets all excited about cutting into a new battery. I recall that it did not have a cold temp cut-off and the BMS was not as good as some others that were in the same cost range. They have a 98 amp hour and he cut into that one too and stated he thought the cells were recycled and being sold as new so that turned me off. But that is a different Battery then 100 aph.

The problem with lithium cranking batteries is not with the battery itself, it's that the BMS in them can throttle/cut off charge current completely as it sees fit. Suddenly cutting off the charge current is hard on the rectifier and stator, as well as the electronics on newer outboards. They also have a lower internal resistance and can charge at much higher current, again, hard on the stator and rectifier.

 

[Azdesert]

The problem with lithium cranking batteries is not with the battery itself, it's that the BMS in them can throttle/cut off charge current completely as it sees fit. Suddenly cutting off the charge current is hard on the rectifier and stator, as well as the electronics on newer outboards. They also have a lower internal resistance and can charge at much higher current, again, hard on the stator and rectifier.

That makes prefect sense to me. Guess I'm done looking at lithiums for that purpose. I sure don't need any problems with EFI and other electroinics in a brand new motor. I would guess none of those issues would be covered under warranty because the wrong battery was installed.
Great information, thanks for sharing!

 

[thill]

Just did a bunch of research on starting batteries for my new '23 Mercury 60hp 4 stroke. According to both Mercury Marine customer service, as well as my local Mercury dealer.....ONLY wet cell LA starting/cranking batts are acceptable for motor starting. The stators are not designed to charge DC, Lithium or AGM batts. So I went with the largest RC I could get in a group 27 marine starting battery.

Was this shown to you in print, or did they just verbally tell you this?

AGM are lead acid batteries in a more durable format, using glass mat to hold the sheets apart, rather than just hanging them. This makes touching plates almost impossible, although they can still sulfur up, particularly if misused. AGM charges and discharges the same as any other lead battery, and they carry the same voltage.

When I had a Mercury engine, the 800 CCA Optima AGM batteries were strongly recommended to me, despite the extra cost. They were great batteries with no issues.

I'm curious enough to do a quick web search... Look at what popped up:

As of 9/26/2022, Mercury has issued Service Bulletin 2022-19 stating that the listed engines will be permitted to use a Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery that is designed for engine cranking, as long as it meets the listed specifications:

-2.1L 75-115hp Fourstroke, ProXS and SeaPro Models
-3.0L 150hp Fourstroke, ProXS and SeaPro
-4.6L V8 and 3.4L V6 175-300hp Fourstroke, ProXS, SeaPro and Verado Models
-2.6L L6 200-400 Pro and Verado Models
-7.6L V12 500-600hp SeaPro and Verado Models.
-NO other engines approved at this time.

Minimum Specs Required:

-Chemistry/Format: Lithium IRON Phosphate designed for MARINE CRANKING USE.
-Minimum Cranking Amps: 800A for 8 second minimum @ 20 Degrees F
-Peak Charge Acceptance: 165A at 20-130 degrees F for one minute
-Max Charge Alternator Size: 150A at 20-130 degrees F
-Max Charge Voltage/Alternator Output: 14.8V
-Reserve Capacity (RC25 @ 80F): 135 Minutes
-Ingress Protection (IP rating): IP67 or greater.

Cautions that use at temperatures below 32F may require additional equipment such as a battery heater.

Bulletin also lists a Relion Battery that has been evaluated and meets the above requirements: RB100-HP.

The above is a Mercury service bulletin. So, again, I wonder if you were just given the word of mouth "urban legend" or if Mercury has changed their specs?