Reattaching transom corner caps

[508]

Finally getting ready to tie my transom replacement up and I could use some advice on reattaching the corner caps. I had to use narrower aluminum angle than I planned, and it's flat where the original was curved so it doesn't sit flush. One side is better than the other, but neither is ideal. Any suggestions?

 

[DaleH]

How much of a vertical edge on the stern of the hull is there?

 

[maintenanceguy]

screw it down.
caulk the gap.
paint it.

You'll never notice.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Could always use a dead blow to bend the lip down to match the caps at the corners. Then some good 3/16 rivets to hold it together

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[508]

@DaleH the aluminum angle is 1.25" x 1.25".

@maintenanceguy I'm pretty close to doing that, the rest of the boat is beat up so at least it would match.

@Weldorthemagnificent it's 20+ year old cast aluminum, so I'm nervous about cracking it.

 

[gogittum]

I think Weldor is saying to bend the new aluminum to match the old caps. I agree - don't try bending those cast caps....you'll regret it. Castings don't bend. From the little I can see in your pic, I'd say you might could cut a notch in the new aluminum to help fit the old caps, too. If you're not familiar with dead blow hammers, buy a small one - 1# - and play with it some. They are an "extremely" useful tool. Mine is over 30 years old now and has seen a "lot" of use.

For the rivets - my recent education: I pulled the center seat out of my 16 ft Starcraft project recently to install a folding grab bar and needed 3/16" steel shank rivets to re-install it. The standard kit puller-pliers gave me fits. Both hands straining with every ounce of strength I had and one set bent a handle, the other finally popped a couple but it was a near thing and I was exhausted.

Looked online for heavy duty rivet pullers and looked in shock at $50+ tools - I only needed to pull a dozen or so rivets. Then found a unit in stock at Harbor Freight in Crystal River for $18 that looked good online, so, since it's only 25 miles away, I went for a look-see. Prob'ly made in China but at that point I didn't much care - the thing is beautifully made and very heavy duty. Even has a catch bottle for pulled shanks. Didn't realize how handy that would be until I actually used it - I like it.

Bought it and brought it home and it yanked those stiff 3/16" steel shanks with ease. What a pleasure. Only downside is that it's a big hunk of iron with handles spread and won't fit down in corners. It'll last a lifetime.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Yes, I meant to say bend the angle to match the angle of the cap. You can mark it and bend it in a vise or clamp a block of steel underneath to keep the bends uniform looking and not mangled. Lol. As mentioned a long handled river tool helps and the cheap ones from harbour freight will do just fine.

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[508]

@gogittum @Weldorthemagnificent ah that makes much more sense. The aluminum channel is narrower than the old, curved piece, so if I can bend it up enough I'll still have to drill new holes, but that's ok. I already have the exact rivet tool you're both talking about but might have to do nuts/bolts because of combined thicknesses of the pieces.

 

[DaleH]

BE AWARE ... aluminum needs to be annealed BEFORE bending and the annealing temp depends highly on the alloy. But I'd say one should at least 'paint' the tin piece with a Sharpie marker and heat the tin (propane or MAPP) until that marker fizzles ... then bend away. Also note the tin will need repeated annealing sessions, as working the tin rehardens it.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Aluminum angle is pretty much always 6061. For the amount of bend required you can just knock it into shape. However if you like, some heat will definitely help ease the bend process. Heat exactly as described above and bend away.

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[gogittum]

I've gotten into some interesting discussions at various Ace Hardware stores around the country when buying copper tubing. Most of the help seems to think it's samey-same as rubber tubing and bend it back and forth while measuring and cutting.

I always watch for just that, then show them with an end or a short piece: bend it once and it bends like butter. Straighten that portion back out and it's some stiffer. Bend it back down again and it takes some fair effort. A 4th time and you'll think you're bending steel.

Copper, and I "think" aluminum are the opposite of steel. Heat steel red hot and let it cool and it anneals. Quench it and it hardens. Basically. (you'd be amazed at what you can do with re-bar. Lots of carbon in that. I've made very effective rock hounding chisels out of it) Copper the opposite - heat it up and quench it and it softens right up again. As I say, I "think" Al is the same.

 

[508]

@DaleH @Weldorthemagnificent thank you both, very helpful!