replacing transom

[birdsnest4ever]

Gentlemen, and ladies,if there are any, I am creating a disaster! I have a 1957 Arkansas Traveler "V" bottom 14 ft.. The wooden transom is rotten and I think I may have inadvertently messed up. To get the wood out, I had to physically bend the metal up and cut the plywood to get it out. I've got new wood to replace it, but I'm afraid that if I cut it to the same size, it won't go back in without I cut it smaller. Can anyone give me any ideas on how to do this with compromising the integrity of the aluminum.

 

[crazymanme2]

We need pics so we have a better idea what's going on.

 

[GTS225]

Mine isn't as old as yours, but it was a fairly simple matter of drilling out the old rivets, cutting new ply, and replacing the rivets with appropriately-sized stainless machine screws with nylok nuts and rubber-bonded washers for a seal.
If your hull is welded, that will throw a curve ball at you.
As crazyman suggested, pics would get you a better response.

Roger

 

[birdsnest4ever]

Mine isn't as old as yours, but it was a fairly simple matter of drilling out the old rivets, cutting new ply, and replacing the rivets with appropriately-sized stainless machine screws with nylok nuts and rubber-bonded washers for a seal.
If your hull is welded, that will throw a curve ball at you.
As crazyman suggested, pics would get you a better response.

Roger

I've tried in the past to post photos to no avail, but I do appreciate your input. My old Traveler has a lip in the back that is folded over the wood. I finally took some sheet metal pliers and just bent it up to the point where I could get the old wood out. There is, also, a brace in the floor that holds the wood against the back, but it's riveted, and I am not qualified to replace rivets without leakage. I have (almost) decided to put an aluminum angle over the lip when I'm finished to regain/ retain the integrity and repaint it to match. BTW, my hull IS welded,and I'm thinking that the original wood was put in before the final welding was done, due to the snugness of the fit. Anyway, I'll take some pictures and if any of you there can tell me how to get them posted, I will be forever in your debt.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

On my 1971 Sea King I bent the aluminum up so I could replace the transom wood. I also had to remove the corner top caps and have them welded back on. The boat is fine 10 years later.

 

[skanders01]

My 12' '69 Richline Sportsman came with the interior transom board cut to fit up and around the middle knee brace. Both boards were recently replaced and I matched the existing boards. Exterior (glue) plywood with 4 coats of Spar urethane varnish on all sides.

 

[birdsnest4ever]

My 12' '69 Richline Sportsman came with the interior transom board cut to fit up and around the middle knee brace. Both boards were recently replaced and I matched the existing boards. Exterior (glue) plywood with 4 coats of Spar urethane varnish on all sides.

I finally had to bend the metal straight to get the old one out, and, even then, had to cut it as it was such a tight fit. I've got new ply wood for it, but I think I'll cut it about a1/4 inch smaller and coat it with some acrylic floor finish.....and some of that "Flex-Seal" product to insure that it's waterproof. I also found a half dozen holes in the metal that I'm going to have to seal before I install the wood. I've got some water weld for that.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Coat the transom with Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane. That's all you need to do to have a lasting transom.
You could treat the wood with a home made mix called Old timer formula.
It's a mix of,
One part Boiled Linseed Oil,
One part Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane.
Two parts Mineral Spirts.

And remember No pressure treaded wood on a aluminum boat.
ABX, BCX or good choices of plywood.