SeaArk repair recommendations needed

[cody0707]

I just picked up a 2008 SeaArk. It was used in freshwater but unfortunately, the south's ******* community got ahold of it. There are numerous very small screw holes in the top of the boat. What is the easiest way for a non-welder to fix these holes and apply a rattle can paint job over the repair?

Also one of the previous owners decided to cut access under the front deck and remove foam to allow for storage. While I don't mind having storage I think it was done poorly. I plan to find a hatch to fit in this location and will likely build a box to fit in the hatch then put some foam back around the box. Any recommendation on this plan?

Also, the boat needs a 15" shaft but they have a 20" on it with a jack plate. The jack plate does get the motor to the correct height but it sets the motor back making the tiller reach shorter. A simple tiller extension should fix this issue. I was thinking about putting a grab handle in to allow me to stand up while running.

Here are the photos of their crafty work:

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

A welder would fill those and slick it off in no time. However, I've had good luck with JB Weld. I like the steel stik. The kind you knead together. It makes a thick putty that you could mash down into the holes. Make sure it's clean bare aluminum and it should last. Once the putty hardens, you could smooth it off with a grinder or sander, maybe leaving it slightly high. Rattle can over top.

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[MrGiggles]

You can buy pre-made hatch doors that should fix up the storage box pretty well. If not, you could make one with sheet aluminum, some C-channel weather stripping, hinges, and a slam latch. Wouldn't be too hard.

As for the holes, I would be more inclined to drop it off at a welder and let them fill the holes when they're doing aluminum. It won't cost as much as you think, and it'll be fixed forever.

 

[overboard]

I would also go with welding those holes, shouldn't cost much at all, if that isn't an option then go with the JB weld.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

If you use jb weld and then later go to have it welded, it's a pain. That stuff gets right in the aluminum and smokes and bubbles when you try to weld it. Even after you clean it off. It can be welded after, just more of a pain and will cost more for a lesser result.

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[CedarRiverScooter]

How long do you plan on owning this boat? If not very long, an overlay plate + sealant will last for 5 years or so.

If you want to grow old with it, then have a shop cut out the cancer & splice in new material.

Of course it could rot out somewhere else too.

 

[gogittum]

Quite a few years ago a new product was introduced at boat shows that was an aluminum "soldering" stick/rod that uses no flux at all. I see ads for them on FB all the time now. I bought some back then (40 yrs ago) and tried it on refrigerator evaporators that people had stabbed holes into. You heat the aluminum with a propane torch, then melt this stuff on like a fairly high temp solder. Something about the composition of Mapp gas makes it less desirable to use.

The ads are true - the stuff is rock hard, flows well, bridges gaps extremely well, sticks good - the big demo is punching a hole in a beer can, then welding it shut. It does and the repair is far harder than the original can, but in the refer application, it turned out to be porous. Put the freon in, start the compressor and use soap bubbles and you could see the weld foaming, so it's no good for that application.

Reading this thread reminded me of it. Yah, it's porous to freon under 100 psi pressure, but I'll bet it would make a dandy repair on an aluminum hull and no need to take it to a welding shop. I'd check it out. For leaky rivets that won't reset tightly, this stuff would make a patch right over it.

 

[gogittum]

I'm pretty sure this is the same stuff. It worked very well for me....just not with freon.
https://mrcarshop.com/products/rods?fbclid=IwAR00m5rt0rDIsgbu-J-ef16EtbfFrCtq6aOf4aDmneJFmibWWFU4qMc2dAQ

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

As a certified aluminum welder I always scoffed at that stuff, but I found some in a cabinet at work last week and got playing with it. It does take some skill. If you have soldered copper pipe before, it's a similar application. As with anything aluminum, it must be super clean. Once you get the hang of it, it goes right on and is strong as anything. I joined 2 pieces of 1/8 aluminum in a tee and couldn't break it apart with a hammer.

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[Iammichael6499]

Looking at the pics it appears to me there’s a “possibility” the boat has been in salt a few times. If it were me, I would make 100% sure there’s no hidden corrosion.

 

[cody0707]

Pulled the flooring. Other than needing a cleaning it looks good. Only rust I’ve really seen was on the bathroom door latch that was used for bow access.


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[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Is that galvanized steel angle on the ribs?

 

[cody0707]

Is that galvanized steel angle on the ribs?

I have no idea. It will be removed and replaced with aluminum.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Is that galvanized steel angle on the ribs?

I have no idea. It will be removed and replaced with aluminum.

That's good.

 

[kazzer]

Quite a few years ago a new product was introduced at boat shows that was an aluminum "soldering" stick/rod that uses no flux at all. I see ads for them on FB all the time now. I bought some back then (40 yrs ago) and tried it on refrigerator evaporators that people had stabbed holes into. You heat the aluminum with a propane torch, then melt this stuff on like a fairly high temp solder. Something about the composition of Mapp gas makes it less desirable to use.

The ads are true - the stuff is rock hard, flows well, bridges gaps extremely well, sticks good - the big demo is punching a hole in a beer can, then welding it shut. It does and the repair is far harder than the original can, but in the refer application, it turned out to be porous. Put the freon in, start the compressor and use soap bubbles and you could see the weld foaming, so it's no good for that application.

Reading this thread reminded me of it. Yah, it's porous to freon under 100 psi pressure, but I'll bet it would make a dandy repair on an aluminum hull and no need to take it to a welding shop. I'd check it out. For leaky rivets that won't reset tightly, this stuff would make a patch right over it.

Try this - https://caswellplating.com/casweldtm-al-aluminum-brazing-rod-kit.html