Should I buyt his 25 HP motor?

[CMOS]

Howdy All,

I just saw this for sale locally by an individual. The ad states: "Ouachita fiberglass boat with a 98 Mercury 25 HP outboard motor with a tiller handle. Has low hours been sitting up for a long time in the garage not outside".

The boat and trailer look like junkers that I may be able to get a couple hundred bucks for on resale, however the 25 HP Merc intersts me. He's asking $1200. If I can get him doen to $1000, would this be a good deal for the 25 Merc?

Seems like a good price for a 25.

Thoughts?

CMOS

 

[crazymanme2]

If it has good compression (130 +) I'd jump on it. Brand new those motors have 140 to 145 compression. :lol:

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Ask him if you can check LU oil for water. If it has milk, not as good of a bargain.

 

[CMOS]

Ask him if you can check LU oil for water. If it has milk, not as good of a bargain.

Good point. I will do that.

CMOS

 

[mrdrh99]

I'd insist on a compression check, possibly to run it on the water... But yeah, get on it

 

[CMOS]

I will be going to look at this tomorrow after work.

More info on the motor: Old guy bought it new in 1999. Used it occasionally for 2 years, got sick, died. Boat and motor have been in widow's garage since then. New owner (bartered with widow for some work on her house) has never used it, but says it will start right up. Should be a low hours motor.

Owner easily agreed to allow me to do any tests or inspections that I want, so I'll be doing a compression test, checking the lower unit oil, and manually turning the flywheel to check shift engagement of the prop

Anything else I should/can check without being in the water?

Wish me luck!

CMOS

 

[onthewater102]

Bring a set of earmuffs if you're going to try & run it. Definitely check the lower unit oil to make sure that A - it hasn't leaked out in storage and B - it doesn't appear milky where it would have had a leak while in use.

Whether or not you're going to be able to run it check that it shifts both into forward and reverse. Once shifted you try turning the prop and you should feel the resistance of the compression of the motor in one direction. Do the same to check reverse and the resistance should be felt when turning the prop in the opposite direction.

If you won't be able to run it an inline spark tester will show you if it has spark - you can test that and the compression out of the water, but you won't know if there is a vacuum issue without trying to get it running. Fuel issues in the carb are easy to fix, but those motors use a two part block with a sealant between them that if it fails requires a rather in-depth tear down of the motor to correct, which might be more busy work that you'd want to be bothering with. If the issue were present (it isn't very common but it is possible) it can be fixed and the motor would not have suffered any lasting damage so it isn't a deal breaker in and of itself, but it's certainly something that I would want a significantly lower price on the motor ($500) if there was a possibility of having to wrangle with it as it will take much more time than a simple carb cleaning & gasket kit.

Looks like it's got a stainless prop on it, that's a nice little bonus which would cost you a few hundred if it was something that mattered to you.

 

[WALI4VR]

If u don't buy it let me know and I'll come get it!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[CMOS]

OK guys I have a new (to me) motor. It checked out pretty well.

I need some help with the fuel line: Right now I have a gas tank and fuel line for my Johnson 9.5 and 15HP.

Am I correct that my current fuel line will not work on this Mercury? Please advise.

Thanks,
CMOS

 

[crazymanme2]

The end that connects to the motor is different, which you could change.

 

[CMOS]

The end that connects to the motor is different, which you could change.

So the end that connects to the fuel tank is "universal" with regards to OMC/Merc?

CMOS

 

[Stumpalump]

Is that motor a Tohatsu? Who manufactured it for merc?

 

[crazymanme2]

So the end that connects to the fuel tank is "universal" with regards to OMC/Merc?

yes

 

[nccatfisher]

Just rig up a fuel hose with a mercury fitting on the motor end and an OMC fitting on the tank end. Problem solved for that motor.

I have a bunch of OMC tanks here. When I got a Yamaha motor I just put an OMC fitting on the tank end of the hose and that was the end of my issue.

 

[DaleH]

Just rig up a fuel hose with a mercury fitting on the motor end and an OMC fitting on the tank end. Problem solved for that motor.

All my tanks are rigged that way too, as I have more OMC tanks and motors than Mercs. In fact, my boatclub (20+ skiffs) sets up all of our tanks like this, so in an emergency we can grab any tank out of any boat.

Just be aware that on the Merc fittings there is a large Mercury-only fitting and one that looks like it, but the retaining pin (has cone or angled-tip w/ clipmgroove on it) is an OMC retaining pin diameter. Such fuel connections with the smaller diameter ret-pin are usually marked as QuickSilver (proprietary Merc label or brand) but is the same as a Yamaha fitting. Just went through this whilst setting up yet another tank ...

 

[nccatfisher]

And as a side note, I have found that as hard as it is to swallow given the difference in the price it is worth it to buy OEM fuel fittings. In fact OMC are one of the worst for leaking if you don't go OEM. I know on a tank you aren't hooking up to an OEM fitting many times, but still I have had terrible results with aftermarket connectors.

 

[CMOS]

Just rig up a fuel hose with a mercury fitting on the motor end and an OMC fitting on the tank end. Problem solved for that motor.

I have a bunch of OMC tanks here. When I got a Yamaha motor I just put an OMC fitting on the tank end of the hose and that was the end of my issue.

Just to be clear - if I buy a "Merc" fuel line assembly, it will fit my tank AND the Merc fitting on the motor, right? I ask because of the word "rig" in the above post.


CMOS

 

[Johnny]

Cmos - it is often said that photos will get you the most accurate feedback.

so some good clear photos of what you are working with (connectors and fittings) will be most helpful.


.

 

[CMOS]

Ask and ye shall receive:

CMOS

 

[CMOS]

Update:

As some of you predicted I did have a failure in the tiller-shift mechanism. Lost my reverse gear.

I just got is back from the shop where I had them completely remove the tiller-shift hardware and had them install a standard side-shift lever kit. Back on the water this Saturday for a test run.


CMOS [-o<