Smokercraft 1448 conversion

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dynamicmad

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Just bought this boat and want to convert it over the winter. The build I want to keep as simple as possible with the least amount of modification to the boat structure its self. Deck the front and the back. Live well in middle seat. Storage on the sides. Thoughts???????
 

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Looks good man. Might want to add a jack plate to your list, or perhaps the picture is at an angle.
 
here is my design drawing this is where I am very open to suggestions. Diagonal lines represent decking I need to add. Shaded area is where caret will be. The only cutting I will be doing is for the live well in the middle seat. Is there a premade liner to put in the seat for the live well?
 

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Not sure about a premade liner, but I am sure that you could use a rubbermaid tub or something. If you go that route, you may want to think about insulating it. Looks like a good boat to start with. Welcome to the forum!
 
Was wondering if you have pics of your finished boat and how you ended up dealing with the live well.
 
Question when recovering the boat it is very hard to get it to go on straight on the trailer is there guides to put on the trailer or what could I do to help?
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=345346#p345346 said:
dynamicmad » Tue Mar 18, 2014 1:21 pm[/url]"]Question when recovering the boat it is very hard to get it to go on straight on the trailer is there guides to put on the trailer or what could I do to help?
Yes you can add guides to your trailer either store bought or home made. One of the easiest is made from an extension ladder stabilizer and PVC pipe.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326856#p326856 said:
dynamicmad » 21 Aug 2013, 14:39[/url]"]Just bought this boat and want to convert it over the winter. The build I want to keep as simple as possible with the least amount of modification to the boat structure its self. Deck the front and the back. Live well in middle seat. Storage on the sides. Thoughts???????

If you're removing foam from the middle seat remember you should replace it elsewhere in your design. The foam is typically a 2lb expanding closed-cell urethane. Foam doesn't add buoyancy - despite what you'll read on some less than informed posts - it weighs ~ 2lbs per cubic foot (or more) and takes away from the overall capacity of the boat. What it does is in the event that you swamp it'll retain a degree of buoyancy when the boat is fully inundated so all your precious gear and equipment doesn't make a B-Line for the bottom (like when a Yuppie ass-hat buzzes you in his $100,000 off-shore cruiser that he snuck onto the local lake when the launch official was conveniently looking the other way.)

Be careful if you use extruded polystyrene foam (insulation board) for this purpose - if it comes in contact with gasoline it immediately dissolves into a gooey mess which people compare to napalm...if you opt for polystyrene you should seal it well with a latex paint and make sure there's no way for it to get scratched (such as rubbing on a rivet.) It's really more of a pain than it's worth IMO...just get the expanding urethane and mix it in small quantities in red solo cups (you've got those available right?)
 
Oh - I built my livewell from 3/16" PVC board from US Plastics Corp. with a PVC angle lining all the corners and a PVC 3/4" barbed bulkhead fitting for the drain. Pricier than a rubermaid tub, but higher quality too...I sprayed expanding foam insulation around it once it was installed. (Not closed cell I know but good enough to neatly insulate the live well from the summer sun.) Before spraying the insulation I capped the drain channels (stamped into the bottom of the boat) with aluminum flashing so they would still drain the front and not get clogged with insulation. To install I sliced a hole in the top of the middle bench seat with my rotary cutter and cut the rest out with a pair of tin snips - using the rotary to get each of the 4 cuts started (rotary cut a slice at each corner, tin snip to the next corner.) I had a very cleanly shaped cutout and retained the structural support of the bench seat. I have just enough material to rivet to on the topside of the bench both forward and rearward of the livewell. My livewell measures 15.5" x 8.25" x 36" which is approx 2.75 cu ft or ~20.5 gallons. Not tournament sized (usually 32 gal min) but good enough to resuscitate a worthy opponent after a good fight or keep a few for bragging pictures later. It's a livewell in a 1436 jon boat, I can't be too picky. You'll be able to go wider in a 1448, so you'll need an extra 2' x 4' sheet but you'll get just over 27 gallons if you keep roughly the same dimensions & add a foot in length.

3 sheets of 3/16" thick (2' x 4' sheets to save on shipping)

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23056

Angle (enough to reinforce all corners - I used 1/8" x 1" x 1")

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23195&catid=733

Bulkhead fitting for the drain - the rest of the threaded plumbing can be sourced from Lowes or HomeDepot

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=46177&catid=477&clickid=searchresults
 
Here is the start I decided to go very simple and to have nothing attached to the boat. I am not going to do the live well but do plan on putting a few hatches in for storage.
 

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Just need to carpet and put the trolling motor mount in
 

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I'm thinking instead of carpet spraying the deck with truck bed linener what's everyone's thought with that.
 
We have pike & pickeral around here so carpet is destined to be made nasty right quick...though I'm planning on using tuff coat marine rubberized coating, but I've heard of people using bedliner too.
 
GOt it all finished and put in last night decided to go with truck bed liner. I think it turned out well.
 

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Well after 1 season of use it is holding up really well. Only thing I need to change is the hinges on the platform doors they were cheap and rusted out.
 

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