Some recommendations and general thoughts on outfitting a tinboat

[JNG]

In July of 2018 I bought an Alumacraft 1542 flat bottom jon boat. This was to replace a Princecraft 1436 flat bottom jon boat (which I still have and can't sell!!). I fish mostly electric only lakes. Varying in size from 2 to 80ish acres. There are 3 State and 2 County Parks in my County in IL with over a dozen different bodies of water with boat ramps. The next County west and County south have electric only bodies of water as well.

My plan in 2018 was to come up with a lower maintenance, less draft, electric only, small water boat that was better than my 1436. Around the same time frame I found this forum. I put an incredible amount of time researching a better way to do EVERYTHING. I would like to express my thoughts on this matter after 3 HARD use fishing seasons in case it helps someone else. The seasons in question are 2019, 2020, 2021. I did use the boat a bit in 2018 and I have used it some this year.

My experience with 'tinboats' encompasses almost 5 decades if that matters at all.

I will NEVER go back to wood flooring again. A couple forum users had posted about FRP panels over foam. I took a chance on it. Don't regret it one bit. I laid pink foam board between the ribs, exactly the same height as the ribs. I laid laid standard 'smooth both sides' FRP over the foam. I used #10 SS screws and SS washers to attach tp the ribs. I did drill the holes in the FRP slightly oversize to allow for contraction and expansion. I then used Henry 263 adhesive to glue down some basic indoor/outdoor carpet. The FRP and pink foam weigh 'nothing' in comparison to wood and without the expense of aluminum sheeting and foam. No warping, no cracking, nothing but a rot free, maintenance free floor, light weight floor. My fishing partner weighs in excess of 350#. I weigh 230#. No issues at all. Solid.

Don't skimp on batteries. I have mentioned this before and have taken some heat on this. I went with two 6 volt Interstate Extreme Cycle GC2-ECL-UTL batteries wired in series to provide 12 volts. I simply cannot run these batteries down. No matter the wind or current or distance traveled. I have fought the wind all day and not dropped below 80% capacity. Go with the most battery you can afford or within the weight capacity. Amp hours are all that matter. Period.

I also did not skimp on wire. All trolling motor wiring connections got 8 gauge marine wire. All other electrical runs got 10 gauge marine wire. Crimped and soldered connections as well. Then heat shrink taped. Actually made a blueprint of all loads and the source and the best way to run wire from source to load. Everything fused and switched correctly per the ABYC (TM's on breaker). Was expensive and took forever to do, but I also have had no problems. Do it right the first time.

Don't skimp on the trailer. I did a bit and am now regretting it. Trailer is ok, but I had the option of a better built trailer and passed on it. Don't be me!

G5 Slider seat brackets are the only way! I can't say enough good about these. Perfect solution for small boats.

Think everything through multiple times. I did and am glad I did (except for the trailer). Look at all options before buying anything. Consider every possibility before taking the plunge even if the possibility seems strange at first.

Not saying you have have to go the 'cadillac' route only, but the 'yugo' route will likely lead to problems down the road. Problems down the road lead to less fishing time.

 

[poorthang]

straight up, to the point and accurate. gotta love it. i have been thinking about ditching the outboard and just going all electric. its hard for me to convince me. but , the economy will be in the gutter for at least 4 years, then may never recover. still gotta fish!

 

[LDUBS]

I thought this was really good stuff.

I'm going to admit, I would be prone to use ply flooring but I liked your comments about the FRP over sheet foam.

The wiring on some boats is neatly thought out and laid out. While on others it resembles a bowl of spaghetti. I think mine is somewhere in between -- maybe a bowl of rigatoni, LOL.

I can also relate to what you say about the trailer. I like my boat a lot. If I had to provide a negative it would be the trailer. Seems the dealer went with the minimum needed as opposed to the best fit and allowance for additional weight of typical add-ons.

 

[JNG]

I would also like to add some thoughts on motors.

I mentioned that I primarily only fish electric only lakes/ponds. However this would apply to those buying outboards as well. Before buying anything, think long and hard about how you will use the boat, your 'needs', and lastly your 'wants'. Only buy the motor that will suit your needs the best. Compare the specs from all manufacturers. Price should be the last consideration.

I bought MotorGuide this time as opposed to MinnKota. I've owned both in the past and both makes have pros/cons. The rear motor is a 12volt digital variable speed R3 55lb thrust. This motor has been 100% trouble free. I am pleased with it. Glad I went with variable speed instead of standard 5/2 or 5/3 fixed speeds as it's much handier to find the exact speed necessary for the fishing conditions. I went with a 55lb thrust Xi3 wireless bow mount for the front. No foot pedal. It uses a small remote to steer and control speed. It is also variable speed. The only fault I can find is that sometimes the AA battery used in the remote pops free of it's contacts. It's only happened twice that I can remember and is an easy fix. Otherwise trouble free and I am very pleased with it.

I used Anderson connectors with weather resistant boots to connect the TM's to the 8 gauge wiring leading to the breaker. The connectors have been simply fantastic. Easy to connect and disconnect without any fear of unintentional disconnection.

Now on the subject of props. This info is outdated as I don't think MotorGuide offers these props anymore. Both motors came with plastic 3 blade Machete props. It is a compromise prop at best. I purchased two 2 blade PowerProps and one 2 blade Safari prop from MotorGuide. The PowerProps are made of a slightly more durable glass filled nylon and provide much greater thrust for open water. The Safari is a weedless design that works pretty well in the weeds and slop. It's 95% as good as a MK WeedlessWedge 2. Pick the proper prop for the conditions and swap it out. Only takes a minute to do. I think MK still offers a 2 blade power prop in addition to the Weedless Wedge 2. So same concept can apply to the MK's. The power type props do give you a bit more efficiency and speed in open water compared to the weedless types.

I would add that from time to time I see folks asking about the Chinese electric TM's advertised on Amazon and elsewhere. If you have one and like it, well great. BUT I would caution anyone from considering one for a serious fishing boat. There is a reason why MG and MK are kings of the hill so to speak. Parts availability, service, performance, etc. If you tear up a prop and shear pin on the bargain basement brand, can you even get a replacement?? Now Garmin and others are entering the TM market and one could expect top notch performance from one of those very expensive and highly sophisticated models. But for a standard trolling motor, stick with MinnKota or MotorGuide.

Buy as much thrust (or HP for gas motors) as you think you will need and then some. Think all you will need is 45# thrust? Then go ahead and buy 55#. Not sure if 55# 12 volts is enough for your 16' deep vee? Then go ahead and get the 70# 24 volt model. Always buy a bit more power then you think you will need. You will never regret it and you might find one day you NEED it.

 

[JNG]

A bit more on seating. I left the two tank style seats in the boat as is. I was not going to be building a raised casting deck and anymore I just prefer to be lower 'in' the boat than high up 'on' the boat. But I did want something comfortable and maintenance free and 'bomb proof'.

There are a zillion different seats, swivels, mounting brackets etc for small and mid sized boats available for sale. Here is what I used and why.

First off, The G5 seat sliders. These are the ticket for small boats and tank style seats. Very heavy duty. They also allow you to move the seat laterally to find the best balance in the water and the most comfortable seating arraignment instantly. I installed the rear seat slider offset towards the starboard side and the front slider seat I installed centered on the tank. Whether I'm by myself or with my buddy, we can easily fish either side of the boat, balance the boat in the water, move the seats out of the way, etc instantly. While I installed the seat swivel directly to the slider wedge, I think a short pedestal could be mounted as well. The plastic UHMW wedge is pretty thick and strong.

I went heavy duty on the swivels. Springfield Model # 17071556 |Mfg # 1100050. Seriously heavy duty cast aluminum. Absolutely silent and smooth. You will need longer hardware to attach the seat to the swivel because the plates are much thicker than the standard stamped steel swivels. Since they are powder coated aluminum, no rust, no corrosion.

There is a seat for every butt. Just pick the most comfortable and roomiest you like. You should not be cramped up and tired from sitting. I like the Wise brand 8WD139CLS seats. Light weight compared to most, roomy, durable. Comes in umpteen colors and camo patterns to match any boat.

These 3 items have been flawless for me. Nothing has broke or worn out. I'm 230# and my buddy is a good 350#. If we have not broken anything, I doubt any of you will.

 

[LDUBS]

Buy or make good covers for the seats. They will last a lot longer. And after towing the boat to the lake on a dewy morning, you won't be sitting in a wet seat.

 

[PriceTR24speed]

In July of 2018 I bought an Alumacraft 1542 flat bottom jon boat. This was to replace a Princecraft 1436 flat bottom jon boat (which I still have and can't sell!!). I fish mostly electric only lakes. Varying in size from 2 to 80ish acres. There are 3 State and 2 County Parks in my County in IL with over a dozen different bodies of water with boat ramps. The next County west and County south have electric only bodies of water as well.

My plan in 2018 was to come up with a lower maintenance, less draft, electric only, small water boat that was better than my 1436. Around the same time frame I found this forum. I put an incredible amount of time researching a better way to do EVERYTHING. I would like to express my thoughts on this matter after 3 HARD use fishing seasons in case it helps someone else. The seasons in question are 2019, 2020, 2021. I did use the boat a bit in 2018 and I have used it some this year.

My experience with 'tinboats' encompasses almost 5 decades if that matters at all.

I will NEVER go back to wood flooring again. A couple forum users had posted about FRP panels over foam. I took a chance on it. Don't regret it one bit. I laid pink foam board between the ribs, exactly the same height as the ribs. I laid laid standard 'smooth both sides' FRP over the foam. I used #10 SS screws and SS washers to attach tp the ribs. I did drill the holes in the FRP slightly oversize to allow for contraction and expansion. I then used Henry 263 adhesive to glue down some basic indoor/outdoor carpet. The FRP and pink foam weigh 'nothing' in comparison to wood and without the expense of aluminum sheeting and foam. No warping, no cracking, nothing but a rot free, maintenance free floor, light weight floor. My fishing partner weighs in excess of 350#. I weigh 230#. No issues at all. Solid.

Don't skimp on batteries. I have mentioned this before and have taken some heat on this. I went with two 6 volt Interstate Extreme Cycle GC2-ECL-UTL batteries wired in series to provide 12 volts. I simply cannot run these batteries down. No matter the wind or current or distance traveled. I have fought the wind all day and not dropped below 80% capacity. Go with the most battery you can afford or within the weight capacity. Amp hours are all that matter. Period.

I also did not skimp on wire. All trolling motor wiring connections got 8 gauge marine wire. All other electrical runs got 10 gauge marine wire. Crimped and soldered connections as well. Then heat shrink taped. Actually made a blueprint of all loads and the source and the best way to run wire from source to load. Everything fused and switched correctly per the ABYC (TM's on breaker). Was expensive and took forever to do, but I also have had no problems. Do it right the first time.

Don't skimp on the trailer. I did a bit and am now regretting it. Trailer is ok, but I had the option of a better built trailer and passed on it. Don't be me!

G5 Slider seat brackets are the only way! I can't say enough good about these. Perfect solution for small boats.

Think everything through multiple times. I did and am glad I did (except for the trailer). Look at all options before buying anything. Consider every possibility before taking the plunge even if the possibility seems strange at first.

Not saying you have have to go the 'cadillac' route only, but the 'yugo' route will likely lead to problems down the road. Problems down the road lead to less fishing time.

I know this is an old thread, but can you tell me more about the FRP Panels? Did you use solid or corrugated and what thickness did you use? Did some googling and looks like there is solid 1/16" up to almost 1/8" and some corrugated that is around 3/8". Any info appreciated! Thanks

 

[Lost But Happy]

 

[LDUBS]

What the heck - I'm not clicking on that link.

 

[Canoe]

It's cleaned up now.

 

[Tin Ark]

I would also like to add some thoughts on motors.

I mentioned that I primarily only fish electric only lakes/ponds. However this would apply to those buying outboards as well. Before buying anything, think long and hard about how you will use the boat, your 'needs', and lastly your 'wants'. Only buy the motor that will suit your needs the best. Compare the specs from all manufacturers. Price should be the last consideration.

I bought MotorGuide this time as opposed to MinnKota. I've owned both in the past and both makes have pros/cons. The rear motor is a 12volt digital variable speed R3 55lb thrust. This motor has been 100% trouble free. I am pleased with it. Glad I went with variable speed instead of standard 5/2 or 5/3 fixed speeds as it's much handier to find the exact speed necessary for the fishing conditions. I went with a 55lb thrust Xi3 wireless bow mount for the front. No foot pedal. It uses a small remote to steer and control speed. It is also variable speed. The only fault I can find is that sometimes the AA battery used in the remote pops free of it's contacts. It's only happened twice that I can remember and is an easy fix. Otherwise trouble free and I am very pleased with it.

I used Anderson connectors with weather resistant boots to connect the TM's to the 8 gauge wiring leading to the breaker. The connectors have been simply fantastic. Easy to connect and disconnect without any fear of unintentional disconnection.

Now on the subject of props. This info is outdated as I don't think MotorGuide offers these props anymore. Both motors came with plastic 3 blade Machete props. It is a compromise prop at best. I purchased two 2 blade PowerProps and one 2 blade Safari prop from MotorGuide. The PowerProps are made of a slightly more durable glass filled nylon and provide much greater thrust for open water. The Safari is a weedless design that works pretty well in the weeds and slop. It's 95% as good as a MK WeedlessWedge 2. Pick the proper prop for the conditions and swap it out. Only takes a minute to do. I think MK still offers a 2 blade power prop in addition to the Weedless Wedge 2. So same concept can apply to the MK's. The power type props do give you a bit more efficiency and speed in open water compared to the weedless types.

I would add that from time to time I see folks asking about the Chinese electric TM's advertised on Amazon and elsewhere. If you have one and like it, well great. BUT I would caution anyone from considering one for a serious fishing boat. There is a reason why MG and MK are kings of the hill so to speak. Parts availability, service, performance, etc. If you tear up a prop and shear pin on the bargain basement brand, can you even get a replacement?? Now Garmin and others are entering the TM market and one could expect top notch performance from one of those very expensive and highly sophisticated models. But for a standard trolling motor, stick with MinnKota or MotorGuide.

Buy as much thrust (or HP for gas motors) as you think you will need and then some. Think all you will need is 45# thrust? Then go ahead and buy 55#. Not sure if 55# 12 volts is enough for your 16' deep vee? Then go ahead and get the 70# 24 volt model. Always buy a bit more power then you think you will need. You will never regret it and you might find one day you NEED it.

Solid information here !

 

[thill]

Very good write up.

The ONLY thing I would add is don't go too crazy on power. Around here, some guys decided that the 36V 112 lb thrust motor would be better than a 24V 80# motor on a tin boat.

Long story short, a 112# motor can be had for almost HALF of what an 80 can, because of having to run THREE batteries in a small boat. And in practice, unless you want to get thrown out of the boat, the 112 lbs of thrust are mostly wasted for a boat that is really better suited for a 55# motor.

That being said, if you have a 25' sport cabin, at least you can find a good, used 112# motor for a great price!