Steering Modification question

[Popeye]

So what I would like to do is relocate the bar that connects from the steering from the top to the front so that it doesn’t interfere with my kicker motor. There are a couple of threaded holes in the front that could be used to connect it but was wondering if this is safe. The last thing I want to have happen is have that break while running at WOT. Even though my boat only goes 40 +/- MPH, it could be nasty.

The first picture is not my motor but one I found on the internet as I don’t have access to the boat to take a good picture right now. It shows the cable comes in on the STBD side and a shaft comes out on the Port side. The linkage bar connects to the Port side and is connected to my motor as it is in this picture. The 2 red circles are the threaded holes.

The second picture is my boat and shows the steering cable coming in on the STBD side and the connecting rod on the top on the Port side. Wanting this to be in front.

Third picture shows front view of my set up. With the Honda things were okay, but with my new Tohatsu, the gear selector is in the way and during a hard right turn the connector bar will push it out of gear.

So, is this a feasible project and are there correct Mercury parts to do this or if I fabricate a plate to fit will it be safe? Provided I fabricate a sturdy enough plate and bolt assembly of course.

 

[ober51]

I believe I want to do the same exact thing with my 25 HP Tohatsu. I am eagerly watching to see how this is done. Mine isn't due to another kicker but because I think the 13' cable shouldn't have so many bends in it.

 

[ben2go]

I don't see an issue as long as it's strong and secure.If it breaks you always got the kill switch.

 

[huntinfool]

I guess I don't understand what it is your exactly asking. The first picture has the steering arm mounted in the center of the motor, but it is not connected to a steering cable. The direction of the linkage arm would indicate the steering arm would be coming in from the port side and exiting the stbd. side.

In the second pic I see pretty much the same thing, but this one IS connected to the steering cable. Your saying that it is on top. That is the stainless (usually) linkage arm that connects the steering cable to the motor. But if you follow that to the other end it does connect to the front of your motor. However this one comes in on the stbd. side and exits the port side. You would not be able to change directions with out it steering "opposite" of what you currently have, but depending on what kind of helm you have you might be able to change the steering cable in the helm.

So I guess I don't really get what your wanting to move. The steering cable has to go through the tube and continue out the other side and connect to the linkage arm.

Perhaps just move the kicker motor over?

So what am I missing?

 

[Popeye]

I guess I don't understand what it is your exactly asking. The first picture has the steering arm mounted in the center of the motor, but it is not connected to a steering cable. The direction of the linkage arm would indicate the steering arm would be coming in from the port side and exiting the stbd. side.

In the second pic I see pretty much the same thing, but this one IS connected to the steering cable. Your saying that it is on top. That is the stainless (usually) linkage arm that connects the steering cable to the motor. But if you follow that to the other end it does connect to the front of your motor. However this one comes in on the stbd. side and exits the port side. You would not be able to change directions with out it steering "opposite" of what you currently have, but depending on what kind of helm you have you might be able to change the steering cable in the helm.

So I guess I don't really get what your wanting to move. The steering cable has to go through the tube and continue out the other side and connect to the linkage arm.

Perhaps just move the kicker motor over?

So what am I missing?

Here’s a closer look at my boat and what I’m talking about. In the original post, the first picture was NOT of my motor and the steering linkage arm that was in that picture was disconnected from anything and swung out of the way (prolly for picture clarity). As for moving the kicker over... that's as far over as it goes. Someone even suggested installing a jack plate to mount the kicker on. I suppose that might work, but I'm not gonna do that. Not even gonna consider it. Not going Hydraulic steering either as was also suggested. I am trying to make this as simple and cheap as possible. As it is, I can use the kicker the way it is set up, but will have to reduce my right turn radius to prevent the kicker from getting pushed out of gear.

The first picture shows the steering linkage arm where it is currently connected and the threaded holes I would like to use. You can see where the steering cable enters from the left side as well. The linkage arm is on top of the piece that is connected to the motor frame. I want to use the holes on the front.

The second picture is another view of the same area although with this view you can see the nut that holds the linkage bolt on. Also the end of the linkage arm has a bearing in it to allow the linkage arm some rotational movement as well as allowing it to pivot.

The third picture shows the right side where the piston (or is that the end of the cable?) comes out and where the linkage arm connects to it. You can see the 90 degree bend in the linkage arm will make contact with the gear selector lever on the kicker motor. If i can connect the linkage arm to the threaded holes, it will rotate the bend 90 degrees forward and will not hit the gear selector. The linkage arm has a threaded end and connects to the piston end by passing through a hole with a locknut holding it in place.

 

[Popeye]

I don't see an issue as long as it's strong and secure.If it breaks you always got the kill switch.

Yeah, well if it breaks, the kill switch will be activated by me being ejected from the boat as it makes a very hard 90 degree turn and flips over. Sorta something I'm hoping to avoid.

 

[Quackrstackr]

The geometry won't work.

Right now, the black mount under the arm pivots in an arc around your steering arm bolt in the center. If you were to flip the arm to the front, there is no way for it to pivot and the joint will bind. You change that from a rotating joint to a linear pull by flipping it to the front.

I'm not sure how to explain that without visuals but trust me, you don't want to do that.

 

[Popeye]

Visuals not needed, I understand exactly what you are saying. There is a bearing in the end of the linkage arm and I'll disconnect the other end to see how much play I actually have. I might have to do something else. UNLESS, Mercury has a part designed to use the front holes...

 

[ben2go]

I don't see an issue as long as it's strong and secure.If it breaks you always got the kill switch.

Yeah, well if it breaks, the kill switch will be activated by me being ejected from the boat as it makes a very hard 90 degree turn and flips over. Sorta something I'm hoping to avoid.

I see better now with the new pictures. #-o

 

[Popeye]

Maybe I can fabricate something along these lines

 

[huntinfool]

First off as I see it the steering cable at the linkage arm is the problem not the other end. But I'm not there and still don't see what your seeing. If you move the linkage at the motor arm your still going to be connected to the steering cable so I don't see how that is going to change the steering cable going through the tube. Therefore the linkage arm at the steering cable is still going to hit the gear selector.

Unless your saying that the arm off the motor is what is hitting your gear selector and therefore lengthening it seems like it would be more in the way not less.

I don't see a solution based on what you've shown just yet, except for some suggestions that you do not want to do.

Now I do have a question and a possible solution.

How is the gear selector handle attached to the arm. Is it bolted on? Is it all one piece? Perhaps that is what needs to be modified...just a suggestion.

Sorry I don't feel like I'm being of much help...but trust me I am trying.

 

[Popeye]

First off as I see it the steering cable at the linkage arm is the problem not the other end. But I'm not there and still don't see what your seeing. If you move the linkage at the motor arm your still going to be connected to the steering cable so I don't see how that is going to change the steering cable going through the tube. Therefore the linkage arm at the steering cable is still going to hit the gear selector.

Unless your saying that the arm off the motor is what is hitting your gear selector and therefore lengthening it seems like it would be more in the way not less.

I don't see a solution based on what you've shown just yet, except for some suggestions that you do not want to do.

Now I do have a question and a possible solution.

How is the gear selector handle attached to the arm. Is it bolted on? Is it all one piece? Perhaps that is what needs to be modified...just a suggestion.

Sorry I don't feel like I'm being of much help...but trust me I am trying.

If you look in the picture, the linkage arm at the downward 90 degree bend is what is pushing under the gear selector lever and pushing it up and out of gear. If the piece that is comig ot of the tube is in fact the end of the steering cable, then the cable has absolutely nothing to do with my problem. The point of contact is the linkage arm. I do not want to lenghten anything. I am looking for a way to relocate the bend, preferably by rotating it in a forward direction. That way the 90 degree bend would be parallel with the end of the steering cable and clear the gear selector. I do concur that I could possibly (maybe) modify the gear selector (that's what I did on the Honda) but with this motor being brand new with zero hours on it, I would rather not start cutting and modifying it if I can help it. There is some linkage on the inside bend of the gear selector arm.

 

[huntinfool]

ROGER! I get it now. If you could move the bushing that the linkage arm connects to the motor arm 90 degrees and then turn the steering cable 90 degrees then that would get it out of your way. I have never seen this done. I have however seen some differently shaped steering linkages arms. Perhaps a different one would allow it to not contact the gear selector.

If memory serves me correctly I think I saw one boat with the steering linkage arm upside down. Connected to the bottom of the steering cable and then hooked to the bottom of the arm on the motor. However it seems that he had problems with it hitting the top of his transom.

Let me sleep on this one.

BTW where you have piston out that is the end of the steering cable. It is not a piston.

 

[Popeye]

that's what I was thinking but hey, i was stillworking on my first cup of coffee when I added that.

 

[huntinfool]

that's what I was thinking but hey, i was stillworking on my first cup of coffee when I added that.

If you were to make a bracket that was 90 degrees from where the linkage arm attaches to the arm on the motor you would not be able to turn to the left. I think the bracket would hit the linkage.

I understand about not wanting to hack on your brand new motor.

 

[Popeye]

that's what I was thinking but hey, i was stillworking on my first cup of coffee when I added that.

If you were to make a bracket that was 90 degrees from where the linkage arm attaches to the arm on the motor you would not be able to turn to the left. I think the bracket would hit the linkage.

I understand about not wanting to hack on your brand new motor.

I would actually prefer to make a new linkage arm along the lines of this:

The last 45 degree bend on the left really wouldn't need to be there as the arm pivots on the bolt anyhow. My only concern would be that the steering cable might tend to want to twist and cause binding. I'm not even sure if the cable end will pivot 90 degrees as it is. If I have to tear into where it connects at the helm, I'm gonna just live with the limited turn radius.

 

[huntinfool]

The end of the cable should turn with out any problems. I think that this could be done as your drawing indicates. As long as it is strong then I don't think there will be an issue.