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Arrowhand

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Oct 9, 2010
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hello all. just picked up my first tin boat, but its #14 in a long line of boats
 

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It looks like a 1448 Grizzly with alum floor and sides. I have one w/o the floor and sides and love it. I threw in a wooden floor last spring but like the boat so much I may put in the alum after all. Mine has a 25hp and goes 30+ mph. Hope you like yours as much as I do.
 
I has 1448 and i likes alot,my boat has tiller steer and 20hp jet on her.I see that picture has console on it.I just wondering if its 1448 or 16 footer =D>
 
sorry about that--its the 1448 sc with a 25hp merc. Spent a couple hours doing laps around the lake getting it broken in this morning and then spent some time with installs.
 

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a couple more work in process shots.

one thing that is really bugging me--I can not get those fishing seat risers back out-when I sat down they "clicked" down and now are in there--anyone have a idea?. I dont have any access to the underneath of the rear bench as its foam filled.
 

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Those seats are classic!

I have a similar issue trying to get my posts out (mine are rusty and I should replace them) and I end up using channel locks. Yes, it does scratch them.

Nice job on the wire. Is that for your main motor and trolling motor I assume?

KRS
 
On the pedestal seat bases: I have one on my glass boat that is supposed to be stainless. It is not completely, and the rust seems to be causing the hole in the plastic bushing to shrink. You may have to unbolt the base and put in a press to remove. Then take a 3/4 drill or preferably a reamer and run it down in the hole. My bushing is solid plastic. I notice that the new base I just bought, it is not solid, and instead is sliced so it has fingers. I don't think I'd recommend drilling that type.
 
They both will move up about a 1/32 and then stop--its like a pin is engaged and holding them in. Theres no rust and I could swear theres a plastic insert that the riser slid into, but now I cant see it
 
The old "kingpin" style was a smooth pin and smooth hole. Now, some of the posts have a smaller diameter on a section near the end. I think it's supposed to work with the base to require a little force to get it out to keep the pin from coming out unintentionally. Different manufacturers may make them a little different though. Of course they recommend you match both components of the same brand. Maybe your plastic bushing (the type that locks) and pin have a square mating edges when one of them should be tapered a little. You'd have to be able to get them apart and examine them closer to see what the deal is. ](*,)
 
Ups man dropped of the braket for the troling motor a couple days ago then got the troling motor today, spent some time tonight and got those installed. Tomorow should be getting the outboard trailering braket and side guides. Its so fun to come home and have a package waiting.

Hopefully this weekend i can get my head under the front deck and see what i can see in regards to the dang seat risers.
 
If you can't figure it out, just take the seat base off. That's what you'll have to do to press it out anyway. Small arbor press is on my list of tools to have one day. The list is long!
 
Yep, those pin bases can be a PITA. once you get it out take a file and rounds off the edge on the steel part where it's thinner in the middle and it'll come off easier. One of mine is that way too, cathes on the nylon insert.

Jamie
 
captdan--the rear bench is foam filled so there would be no reason to add a access port.


jamie--any idea on how the rear seat base is held down? I'm worried about getting the screws out and then having nothing for the screw or bolts to go back into-im sure there put together before the bench seat was installed in the hull
 
I cut squair hole in both sides of me 1448 and added Trempress hatch there.I like haveing storage under there.Was foam under there like sated above but i just remove some to create place for items storage. =D>
 
ok, got the seat riser's out. the front one was easy-just got under there and was able to see what was holding it in place, little plastic insert with finders going into a grove on the riser. quick work with a pair of pliers and it now will come out. The rear seat base was just screwed into the benchseat-turned out to be no big deal at all.

Heres a couple more photos
 

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